? IAT sensor for methanol with procharger

[Bartly]

Wondering if anyone has methanol/water injection hooked up with their procharger on the S550. I'm curious on the placement of the injector(s) and a new IAT sensor post injection. I am wondering about installing the sensor and injector on the silicon tube just in front of the throttle body. I've seen VMP sells a harness, but not sure if a sensor exists that allows it to be installed and clamped onto a silicone tube. Anyone done this. Also curious if the relocated IAT sensor is required, meaning what would be the result if I just let the PCM continue to get the temp reading from the MAF. I am guessing it means the intake temps would be lower than what the PCM thinks, but not sure what the results would be and if it would matter that much?

Also, being that this is my first go around with FI, I'm thinking its common to drill/attach the meth/water injector in the silicone tube? Am I off base here?
Thanks for any insight.

edit. Found this right after posting. The shape of the pc inlet tube is not much a cylinder, more egg shaped in cross section. Wondering how something like this adapter would seal on it and keep the 9psi inside.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/water-injection-parts/271-nozzle-mounting-adapter.html

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[ahl395]

I'm about to hook up my system on almost the same setup.

Using the VMP Harness definitely has it benefits, which I will also be doing. Not a necessity though. The benefit is that you can see the true IATs after the meth is injected. This acts as a failsafe, not only can you look at your IAT while driving and see if the meth is being injected or not, but the tune can be set up to pull timing over a certain temp. Lund usually has timing pull at 140F, with methanol even on hot days you should never really see over 100F or so IATs. This limit in the tune can be lowered so that if the meth fails for any reason timing can be pulled ASAP. Also, if you already are reaching temps around the limit, not moving the IAT sensor from the MAF to post-injection will mean the ECU will still pull timing even though your "real' IATs will be much lower.

Personally I will be mounting my nozzle on the hard pipe before the silicone tube. Personally I feel metal is just a more stable option. The adapter you posted would work fine though I'm sure. If you're going with the Alky Control kit though you don't need anything additional, the stock kit can mount to a silicone tube. I've checked with Julio the owner, here is a picture below that he sent me. He instructed me to use both washers on either side but cut off the rubber from the washer.

Try to mount the nozzle at least 6" from the throttle body, but most of what I've read says if you can mount it back further it will allow for a better mixture of the methanol with the intake air. Another benefit of using the hard metal pipe.

 

[Bartly]

I'm about to hook up my system on almost the same setup.

Using the VMP Harness definitely has it benefits, which I will also be doing. Not a necessity though. The benefit is that you can see the true IATs after the meth is injected. This acts as a failsafe, not only can you look at your IAT while driving and see if the meth is being injected or not, but the tune can be set up to pull timing over a certain temp. Lund usually has timing pull at 140F, with methanol even on hot days you should never really see over 100F or so IATs. This limit in the tune can be lowered so that if the meth fails for any reason timing can be pulled ASAP. Also, if you already are reaching temps around the limit, not moving the IAT sensor from the MAF to post-injection will mean the ECU will still pull timing even though your "real' IATs will be much lower.

Personally I will be mounting my nozzle on the hard pipe before the silicone tube. Personally I feel metal is just a more stable option. The adapter you posted would work fine though I'm sure. If you're going with the Alky Control kit though you don't need anything additional, the stock kit can mount to a silicone tube. I've checked with Julio the owner, here is a picture below that he sent me. He instructed me to use both washers on either side but cut off the rubber from the washer.

Try to mount the nozzle at least 6" from the throttle body, but most of what I've read says if you can mount it back further it will allow for a better mixture of the methanol with the intake air. Another benefit of using the hard metal pipe.

Thanks, sorry I didn't respond earlier, was camping. Hoping your mom stall is/was going good. My IATs never get very high as I don't hammer it for to long being that it's never on a track. So are you going to be mounting your IAT sensor in the metal pipe also (guessing just a little downstream from the injector)? Yeah, I agree mounting it to the silicone tube wouldn't be as clean and sturdy as mounting to the metal. For some reason I saw that the injector should be 6" from the throttle body, and I took that to mean "keep it within 6". But I can see it making sense that spacing it further forward would only give it more time to mix with the air. I'm also interested in your results, especially if you give it a go with your current tune. Rob on here has some pretty good results in suppressing his knock sensors, being that he has a Whipple, I'd love to hear how a Procharger reacts. Also if I recall, his AFR didn't change much, which sounds good to me. Thanks again for the info.

 

[ahl395]

Thanks, sorry I didn't respond earlier, was camping. Hoping your mom stall is/was going good. My IATs never get very high as I don't hammer it for to long being that it's never on a track. So are you going to be mounting your IAT sensor in the metal pipe also (guessing just a little downstream from the injector)? Yeah, I agree mounting it to the silicone tube wouldn't be as clean and sturdy as mounting to the metal. For some reason I saw that the injector should be 6" from the throttle body, and I took that to mean "keep it within 6". But I can see it making sense that spacing it further forward would only give it more time to mix with the air. I'm also interested in your results, especially if you give it a go with your current tune. Rob on here has some pretty good results in suppressing his knock sensors, being that he has a Whipple, I'd love to hear how a Procharger reacts. Also if I recall, his AFR didn't change much, which sounds good to me. Thanks again for the info.

I thought that at first too, but once I started doing some reading elsewhere most agree the furthest from the throttle body the better for mixing, which makes sense to me.

Here is a good article on placement: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/content/20-where-to-locate-your-alcohol-water

I thought about mounting the IAT on the metal pipe but I think it will be too close to the nozzle. It will be almost directly spraying on it and I don't think that's good for the sensor or the accuracy of the reading. I plan on tapping the back of the intake manifold and installing it there.

Ill be working with Lund for tuning. They already said the current tune is okay to start with but will be doing datalogs for any revisions that may be nessesery and to find the best settings on the system. Right now I have most of it in place just waiting for the tank and have to hook up the final wiring. Installing the IAT sensor on the manifold will be the hardest part.

 

[Bartly]

I thought that at first too, but once I started doing some reading elsewhere most agree the furthest from the throttle body the better for mixing, which makes sense to me.

Here is a good article on placement: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/content/20-where-to-locate-your-alcohol-water

I thought about mounting the IAT on the metal pipe but I think it will be too close to the nozzle. It will be almost directly spraying on it and I don't think that's good for the sensor or the accuracy of the reading. I plan on tapping the back of the intake manifold and installing it there.

Ill be working with Lund for tuning. They already said the current tune is okay to start with but will be doing datalogs for any revisions that may be nessesery and to find the best settings on the system. Right now I have most of it in place just waiting for the tank and have to hook up the final wiring. Installing the IAT sensor on the manifold will be the hardest part.

Sounds like you put together a good plan. Betting you are stoked getting it put together. I was wondering about the temp sensor proximity to the injector. I started thinking hey why not put the injector at the leading end of the metal tube and the temp sensor at the tail end. It already looks like a rats nest around the metal tube, not sure how fun it would be to put both in that tube. I keep forgetting the manifold is plastic, I have never seen a plastic one in my hands, wondering are there any thick sections that are sturdy enough and thick enough to allow tapping?

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