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Bluemustang

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Ok awesome input here guys i really do appreciate it. I'll get the camber plates over the winter too. Then i can try the complete setup all together sometime in spring. I'll do some research on both and see which one i like best for price point and such. Do either suggestions last any longer than the others on the track? 8000 street miles is fine with me for tire life
Do you guys run negative camber in the rear on track? I can get mine pretty negative with the bmr control arms
FYI, if you go with tires like Falken RT660, it will hydroplane pretty easily in the rain on the street. As long as the pavement is dry or light rain, you're OK. Just drive carefully in the rain because there isn't much tread on these.

Yes, you want negative camber on the road course/circuit. I run -2 in the rear. I don't know of much benefit beyond that but more experienced guys may chime in.

With sticky tires you'll have so much grip that the lateral G you have will require you to run a fair amount of negative camber, front and rear, to maintain traction pushing really hard and to help keep the tires wearing evenly. The front needs a little more negative camber ideally because of the poor camber curve of the MacPherson strut suspension.
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Bluemustang

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Ok awesome input here guys i really do appreciate it. I'll get the camber plates over the winter too. Then i can try the complete setup all together sometime in spring. I'll do some research on both and see which one i like best for price point and such. Do either suggestions last any longer than the others on the track? 8000 street miles is fine with me for tire life
Do you guys run negative camber in the rear on track? I can get mine pretty negative with the bmr control arms
If you want a longer lasting track tire, look at the Hankook RS4. It is not grippy as the RT660 and other leading 200tw tires but it will last wayy longer. Also, the more you drive any of these on the street the more you will wear them. Best to have two sets of wheels and tires. See how expensive it gets? Haha
 

jmagnus87

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FYI, if you go with tires like Falken RT660, it will hydroplane pretty easily in the rain on the street. As long as the pavement is dry or light rain, you're OK. Just drive carefully in the rain because there isn't much tread on these.

Yes, you want negative camber on the road course/circuit. I run -2 in the rear. I don't know of much benefit beyond that but more experienced guys may chime in.

With sticky tires you'll have so much grip that the lateral G you have will require you to run a fair amount of negative camber, front and rear, to maintain traction pushing really hard and to help keep the tires wearing evenly. The front needs a little more negative camber ideally because of the poor camber curve of the MacPherson strut suspension.
Good to know and thanks for the tips on the street. I can run my all seasons on street if i have to but that would be a real waste of tire in summer. Given i only get out there so often. Maybe I'll add more track days but there's only so much time and money available lol. I guess i could always take my truck when rain is in the forecast too
 

Bluemustang

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Good to know and thanks for the tips on the street. I can run my all seasons on street if i have to but that would be a real waste of tire in summer. Given i only get out there so often. Maybe I'll add more track days but there's only so much time and money available lol. I guess i could always take my truck when rain is in the forecast too
Awesome! Yeah I ran my RE71R through a whole summer just because it was fun having all that grip haha. You just have to be careful in the rain or preferably just take your truck. Expensive hobby my friend. I will tell you this, I spent 3 years doing chassis and full suspension upgrades and guess what? It took RE71R to make me feel like I got all I paid for. It matters that much. The grip AND the handling go up so much. It is night and day.
 

jmagnus87

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Awesome! Yeah I ran my RE71R through a whole summer just because it was fun having all that grip haha. You just have to be careful in the rain or preferably just take your truck. Expensive hobby my friend. I will tell you this, I spent 3 years doing chassis and full suspension upgrades and guess what? It took RE71R to make me feel like I got all I paid for. It matters that much. The grip AND the handling go up so much. It is night and day.
Yeah i truly don't know why everyone thinks the stock gt pp1 suspension system is so terrible. Sure, it's not on rails but it's nice that it's not a full time racecar and driving like that on the street too ugh. I've done that, got rid of the car for that very reason. Ideally, I should go back to a 94-98 GT and dedicate it to racing. But I'd rather enjoy my S550 and go to track for fun every so often. I don't mind adjusting the suspension to go on track. I can put that back fairly easily. I can't swap springs/struts/sways for track days that's just outrageous.
i can't justify having a full on race car, a gsxr, a Silverado, a snowmobile AND my s550 all at the same time 🤣🤣
 

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Bluemustang

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Yeah i truly don't know why everyone thinks the stock gt pp1 suspension system is so terrible. Sure, it's not on rails but it's nice that it's not a full time racecar and driving like that on the street too ugh. I've done that, got rid of the car for that very reason. Ideally, I should go back to a 94-98 GT and dedicate it to racing. But I'd rather enjoy my S550 and go to track for fun every so often. I don't mind adjusting the suspension to go on track. I can put that back fairly easily. I can't swap springs/struts/sways for track days that's just outrageous.
i can't justify having a full on race car, a gsxr, a Silverado, a snowmobile AND my s550 all at the same time 🤣🤣
There's always a compromise! Haha
But this is the game we're in
 

MarquanTR

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Hey all,
Novice driver here with wayyy too much power for the track but it's fun to say the least.
My question is this, i'm losing a ton of speed in the corners (all mods in signature) in comparison to other cars on track anyway. All 3 instructors on all 3 track days said i did very well and was above average in learning the track and following the lines. HOWEVER, i was slower than the other 5 mustangs there by roughly 15 seconds. Is this something that could likely be cured with seat time? are the adjustable camber plates like an absolute must have for the mustang? Also only seeing 1.07 lateral G but car slid quite a few times yesterday at Palmer Motorsports in Mass. i would think the 345s after getting so hot they're peeling tread off would stick for higher G numbers?

What am i doing wrong here?
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Hey, what are the temps like with the ESS kit on the car? I'm tempted to go ESS but don't want more heat issues
 

jmagnus87

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Hey, what are the temps like with the ESS kit on the car? I'm tempted to go ESS but don't want more heat issues
Cylinder head temps saw 241*F at the peak on a cool day like 60 degrees out when using 3rd gear for most of the track. Keeping it in boost most of the time. Shifted to 4th at certain key turns where i could carry speed through the corners instead of relying on the power to get me there. Then after using 4th temps dropped below 217*F for the rest of the day.
stock differential without cooling, stock cooling system (PP1) and 55,000 miles on the car
 

slowdown

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I definitely think running those Nitto INVO on the track in a heavy Mustang is problematic.

But I don't think that means Nitto tires suck. That's just not a particularly viable tire to run on a track.

I don't get this tire bashing stuff sometimes. Every performance tire has it's optimal pressure, camber, suspension settings it's going to like as well as feel differently depending on rim with vs. tire width and sidewall height.

I run 315/30/18 NT01s. They are fast, grip, and have no problem keeping the pace.
 

jmagnus87

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I definitely think running those Nitto INVO on the track in a heavy Mustang is problematic.

But I don't think that means Nitto tires suck. That's just not a particularly viable tire to run on a track.

I don't get this tire bashing stuff sometimes. Every performance tire has it's optimal pressure, camber, suspension settings it's going to like as well as feel differently depending on rim with vs. tire width and sidewall height.

I run 315/30/18 NT01s. They are fast, grip, and have no problem keeping the pace.
Yeah man, the tires were essentially free with the wheels and spacers. Still had tread so i planned to run them. I had another track day on Michelin Pilot super sports (stock pp1 sizes) but had similar
results.
but all in all i canceled my next track day because i essentially need $7500 in mods to run it on track now 🤷‍♂️ guess I'll just stay off track for a couple years lol no worries. Car is still lots of fun on the street.
aforementioned mods are long tubes to not cook the engine with stock cats, clutch is likely slipping under supercharger peak boost, $1600 in tires, caster camber plates for the front, a borla mid resonator to keep the noise down otherwise track will black flag you, and then installation cost for clutch and headers because i don't have a lift and that's not ideal on the floor by myself. Gotta pay to play man, i just don't have that money lying around.
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