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Everything said above, but also you might have to bend that tube just a little bit. I used an extension and placed it in the tube and just bent it forward a little bit.

I went with a 3.5. So far running it’s great. I do not have a crank support. I was debating on it though. Yes, that was me at NMRA for True Street. I didn’t get any practice at all except for one run Saturday morning so it was not very good passes for me. The car is completely different from...

Is THIS the port you are referring to? Yes sir!

I went with the higher compression 12:1. I got the block for $5600 shipped, good up to 1000 HP. I put another 3K into my new parts and have a 860 HP motor. This was the best deal I could get/find for under 10K.

I bought this from Amazon for it.

I bought a Ford Aluminator GEN 3block. Reused my factory heads and replaced pretty much everything else.Timing, oil pan, gaskets, oil cooler. Pretty much everything except for the timing cover and the actual oil pump. I disassembled that and cleaned it really well.

Hey, there is another port below where whipple has the bypass actuator. I just removed the plug that was there, cleaned it out and put a push to connect in it and the regulator and ran the line.

Hey man, there is a 2nd port behind the Agreed, it was on my way home after driving it for a bit.

Thanks

I had the car back together for a few weeks now. It’s running great. 860 HP on the dyno. If anyone needs any help feel free to reach out.

Hey everyone, sorry I’ve been busy so I haven’t gotten back to this. I still haven’t had a chance to break the old block down, but someone was commenting about how it looks like the part of the piston was sandblasted, and then a portion of the piston is on the sleeves. When looking it over last...

Quick question for those that swapped to the boss 302 secondary tensioners. When I install the plunger, it is much shorter than the factory plunger. The bottom piece doesn’t stick out for the bottom guide to clip on. The guide will clip to the bottom portion of the mega cap, but it looks a...

Thank you. It seems that the fix that everyone does is either swaps to a GEN to cover, or make this sensor work. I was able to push the orange gasket down and it actually looks like it will work pretty well.

I thought so too, but when you look at the picture I posted, that orange gasket is covered on the Gen. 2, but almost an inch off on the gen 3.

Anyone know if the crank sensor needs to be swapped from a 2017 Gen 2 when moving to a Gen 3 aluminator? I saw a post that said it would fit, but when I moved mine over, it looks completely off. If I buy the Gen 3, is the plug the same as Gen 2? Ty.

Ahh, gotcha. Gen5 whipple. I didn’t notice anything off there. I can double check it it’s buried in the garage.

Under the head gasket on the block?

It was leaking from the top side somehow. But, when I first pulled the lid, the water seemed to be pooling in the #6 exhaust valve area. So I first guessed that I had an issue there. 5 & 6 in the first picture, 7 & 8 in the second.

Looking for a little help on what could have caused this. Boosted 17 Coyote on 93 pump. (I know, I know). The night before I was going to install a Fore fuel system for E85, I decided to take the car out for a drive. A mile away from my house I did a good pull and the car lost some power. I...

Awesome, and thank you for clarifying the crank sensor. Yes, I went with all-new timing components. I beefed up the secondary chains and Boss 302 tensioners, Cometic head gaskets, and Gen 3 ARP head studs. I'll probably go with a new gen 2 oil pan etc. I already have boundary OPG and Sproket...