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How common are bent endlinks?

Rebellion

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Mine haven't bent, multiple track days, drag strip, and autox. Not common but if you have the money, might as well do it while you're in there. I have the Steeda links which are beefy as sin and I wanted to adjust pre-load out of the bar with my weight in the car. Clue: look at the nuts.
How does one use this clue? Is it the nut holding the link to the bar, or the one to set the length of the link?
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wildcatgoal

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Nut on Steeda links that secures link bearings to sway bar and strut/LCA locks both because it is a lock nut (plastic inside the threads) and the fact it is a serrated flange nut (essentially built in washer) which grips the bar and will not bend inward into the hole in the bar. This all ensures a very secure attachment that prevents clunks and backing out. Also, on track, I don't want to accidentally lose a separate washer and be forced to dig a basic nut into the sway bar to secure the link.

You'll also notice Steeda's front endlinks maintain the same diameter for the full length of the part which was done for strength (i.e., they do not taper down in the middle). I care most about the type of nut, but obviously you want as much strength as you can get if you're paying all this money.
 
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Todd15Fastback

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Niz55

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Mine was bent when I purchased the car brand new. Let's make some money.
 

Clink

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Thanks but I have all Steeda parts, will be ordering from them soon.
 

jbailer

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Todd15Fastback

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It could be down to a factory typo.

The original OEM Mustang design doc called for "bendlinks"

#FakeNews :doh::lol:
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
 

AJ ROJO

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Mine haven't bent, multiple track days, drag strip, and autox. Not common but if you have the money, might as well do it while you're in there. I have the Steeda links which are beefy as sin and I wanted to adjust pre-load out of the bar with my weight in the car. Clue: look at the nuts.

Your not trying hard enough! j/k

Seriously though, Mine bent before I ever took it to any type of event. I think it is just a mass produced part that is batch made and some batches are better than others.
 

BMR Tech

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To touch on some of the things mentioned in this thread.

"Their's aren't tapered so they're stronger"

Why not mention our rear links are high strength steel, and not Aluminum?

Let's not kid ourselves, you won't see that become an issue with the durability of our front links.. We did the taper to make them look different. We knew everyone would make a them a full hex design, so that is just "form AND function" that comes naturally to us.

"Flanged nuts won't sink into holes like the washers will"

We came down to two options for the fasteners. Option 1 was a flanged nyloc nut...Option 2 was a zinc washer with a steel loc nut.

Like anything, if someone points out a flaw with ours, I can point out a flaw with theirs. This is seriously splitting hairs.

Since we are splitting atoms at this point - our separate washer design will not rub the coating off of the bar and lead to rusting of the bar end. OH and hey, our steel-locking nuts are more durable than a Nyloc! LOL. I am not being serious, but this is the kind of stuff I see online. ;)

Seriously - we ship thousands of links for various makes and models each year and I have never received feedback about this happening, nor have we seen a reason in our testing to warrant changing to a flanged fastener (nut)

I have attached some photos that show how much beefier even our "weaker" round tapered center is in comparison to the OEM end link. The OEM endlink I just pulled off my PP GT car with all stock springs and bars that is bent....:cheers:
ELK012 vs OEM.webp
ELK vs OEM 2.webp
 

NightmareMoon

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It's a design, not a flaw! :lol::lol:
Competing in Autox, I can't legally change my front endlinks to stronger aftermarket endlinks, and I'm damn sure not buying more factory endlinks to bend, so...

I did consider seeing if swapping the left/right endlinks around might help tune the preload on the bar though.
 

Ugly John

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Competing in Autox, I can't legally change my front endlinks to stronger aftermarket endlinks, and I'm damn sure not buying more factory endlinks to bend, so...

I did consider seeing if swapping the left/right endlinks around might help tune the preload on the bar though.

I wonder how SCCA handles something like this where the factory parts aren't up to snuff? Especially with something that doesn't give an advantage. Now I could see requiring the end links to not be adjustable, but don't see how stronger links would be bad....
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