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Heavy Shifter Knob Query

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ralph7

ralph7

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I'm the OP and partially because of your helpful participation and comments I ordered a Billetworkz heavy shifter knob and just got it installed and returned from a ride. Ever since the MGW install, the side pressure going into anything other than 3-4 was something more than stock.
It still is, but it is easier to shift now and this may also be due to the mechanical advantage of it sitting a bit higher than my stock ball.
This is the short white teardrop, I'm happy with it!
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Much prefer the Tall Teardrop Billetworkz on my MGW. It is indeed heavy, but gives a great feel.
I second this - tall teardrop from BW's is fantastic
 
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ralph7

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Let me see a tall bw knob for comparison

IMG_5040.webp
 

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Mine is a tall. On an MGW Shifter

IMG_2274.webp


IMG_2275.webp


IMG_2272.webp
 

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Mine is a tall. On an MGW Shifter

IMG_2274.webp


IMG_2275.webp


IMG_2272.webp
Hey, maybe you can help me out, I just got my tall teardrop for my 2017 with the mgw shifter, did yours come with the removable threaded insert that threads into the knob to align it or is yours just a normal knob with threads inside? Also how did you remove this piece that's left on the mgw after removing stock knob?

20260217_164949.webp
 

skinnyb

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Hey, maybe you can help me out, I just got my tall teardrop for my 2017 with the mgw shifter, did yours come with the removable threaded insert that threads into the knob to align it or is yours just a normal knob with threads inside? Also how did you remove this piece that's left on the mgw after removing stock knob?

20260217_164949.webp
Mine had a aftermarket knob from the beginning so I never had the collar installed, MGW doesn't use it. And yes, I did get the alignment piece that I had to lock down then put the knob on. Once I got it to where I wanted it and reasonably tight, I put one drop ONE of blue locktite on the threads and spun it on. Then let it sit overnight. No issues since...
 

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Mine had a aftermarket knob from the beginning so I never had the collar installed, MGW doesn't use it. And yes, I did get the alignment piece that I had to lock down then put the knob on. Once I got it to where I wanted it and reasonably tight, I put one drop ONE of blue locktite on the threads and spun it on. Then let it sit overnight. No issues since...
Ah ok, I do think I might've gotten the wrong knob then since my threads are 1 piece and not removable and they don't have the flats for a wrench even if they could come out

20260218_170043.webp
 

skinnyb

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Ah ok, I do think I might've gotten the wrong knob then since my threads are 1 piece and not removable and they don't have the flats for a wrench even if they could come out

20260218_170043.webp
Yeah, it looks like it would go down over that collar, as long as you can line it up you might be OK. And the threads fit.
 
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Yeah, it looks like it would go down over that collar, as long as you can line it up you might be OK. And the threads fit.
Ah ok, I do think I might've gotten the wrong knob then since my threads are 1 piece and not removable and they don't have the flats for a wrench even if they could come out

20260218_170043.webp
I don't know why you would want to remove the collar and create a gap.
Screw the locknut down and then screw the knob till it buts up. However much the knob is clocked off on the first try, unscrew the knob, then clock the locknut the same amount you were off and you should be good.
Worked on my MGW combo.
 

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Hey, maybe you can help me out, I just got my tall teardrop for my 2017 with the mgw shifter, did yours come with the removable threaded insert that threads into the knob to align it or is yours just a normal knob with threads inside? Also how did you remove this piece that's left on the mgw after removing stock knob?

20260217_164949.webp
I believe that black piece is from MGW and has an hidden allen screw on it somewhere, maybe pointed away from you.

You can use it as a jam nut against the shift knob, in order to properly align the shift knob.
 

Outlaw

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I don't know why you would want to remove the collar and create a gap.
Screw the locknut down and then screw the knob till it buts up. However much the knob is clocked off on the first try, unscrew the knob, then clock the locknut the same amount you were off and you should be good.
Worked on my MGW combo.
If you see the photo I replied to above, the black piece is an adapter for the OEM knob only and the photo I replied to has it removed with 0 gap. Also billet says all their knobs direct quote from support here "We do not make any knobs with permanent hardware." The threads inside the shift knob should be able to be unthreaded, given that it can't be removed and is permant/solid I suspect billet gave me the wrong knob or in some way swapped products even though the engraving was correct. Also the lock nut is just a plain nut if I twist the knob against it then the nut and knob both spin without locking and theres no space for me to get a wrench on it. Just wanted to confirm with skinny that his was infact 2 pieces, knob and removable threads (shown in every and all install videos but mine is a completely different setup)
 

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Also the lock nut is just a plain nut if I twist the knob against it then the nut and knob both spin without locking and theres no space for me to get a wrench on it.
Yes, just omit that nut.

The MGW adapter can function as a jam nut itself, in order to clock the knob pattern correctly. But you have to loosen the allen key first.
 

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Yes, just omit that nut.

The MGW adapter can function as a jam nut itself, in order to clock the knob pattern correctly. But you have to loosen the allen key first.
I think I'll end up removing it since my concern is with the shape of the knob (you can also see in these 2 pictures) I think the outside ring will tighten against the powdercoat and cause it to get marked up or chip off from metal on metal. But as shown in the 2 pictures, my inside threads SHOULD be removable very easily but they are not removable and billet claims they are. On top of that you can see I'm missing the 2 flat spots to tighten it down to the locknut that every knob on their website clearly shows in every install video, so am I going crazy or did they send me the incorrect knob/hardware/ mess up somewhere., the picture with the flats is from the install video. Kindly give any some advice lol this is a headache

Screenshot_20260219_103212_YouTube.webp


20260218_170043.webp
 

Spart

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I think I'll end up removing it since my concern is with the shape of the knob (you can also see in these 2 pictures) I think the outside ring will tighten against the powdercoat and cause it to get marked up or chip off from metal on metal. But as shown in the 2 pictures, my inside threads SHOULD be removable very easily but they are not removable and billet claims they are. On top of that you can see I'm missing the 2 flat spots to tighten it down to the locknut that every knob on their website clearly shows in every install video, so am I going crazy or did they send me the incorrect knob/hardware/ mess up somewhere., the picture with the flats is from the install video. Kindly give any some advice lol this is a headache

Screenshot_20260219_103212_YouTube.webp


20260218_170043.webp
If you think you have a problem you just need to contact them.

The jam nut they include is intended for use with a pull-up collar. You don't have one of those.

I did not use the jam nut they included with my MGW shifter, I used the MGW OEM knob adapter as a jam nut.

Don't know what else to tell you.
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