Pypes Headers Install? (Tips/Advice)

[garcy5oh]

I just ordered a set of Pypes Longtubes Headers from lethal performance on black friday and I would like some tips and advice on the install since I will be installing them myself with the help of a friend. Id also like to know what to expect quality and fitment wise if anyone else has had an experience with these headers. I know that pypes isn't the best of brands for headers when compared to ARH or Kooks but any feedback positive or negative is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

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[mxdave91]

I just installed a set of pypes last weekend.

First I'd recommend watching Bills install video over at CJPP. It covers the basics, but it also left quite a few things out. Removing the old stuff is pretty cut and dry, and Bills video covers this part pretty well. Removal was honestly pretty easy on both sides.

I started my instal on the passenger side because I heard it was the hardest, and I wanted to get it out of the way. Well, everybody was right, it was definitely the hardest.

Passenger side: I removed the starter and the motor mount bracket (make sure to support the engine before this step), but I didn't need to remove the actual motor mount itself from the frame like Bill did. The old stuff will now come off pretty easy. If you have O2 extensions, connect the passenger side front extension before you install the new header. I installed my header first and then realized afterwards that I could barely fit my arm up through to connect the O2 extension to the factory plug, as it is mounted to the back of the intake manifold (way up there). I also had to remove the factory front O2 plug from its original mounting point on the back of the intake manifold to give me an extra few inches of play in the lead (front O2 sensor would not reach without doing this). This O2 plug can probably be disconnected from the back of the intake manifold from above or below, but I had to do mine from above because I already had the header installed and there was not enough room for me to work from underneath. I reused the factory manifold studs, but I had to remove all but the front two to get enough clearance to slide the header into place (I also reused the old gaskets). I then reinstalled all factory studs with either a quarter inch socket or ratcheting wrench. Some you can reach from the bottom and some you have to reach from the top. The nuts then went on the same way. You'll need a combination of a ratchet & socket and a ratcheting wrench to tighten these, and like the studs, some are accessible from the top and some from the bottom. I only disconnected one motor mount bracket at a time, but I was able to jack the passenger side of the motor up slightly to make the top header nuts a little more accessible from the top. Everybody complains about the top front header bolt/nut, but I honestly had no issues at all with it, as it is pretty easily accessible with a ratcheting wretch from the top. Wether you're using the factory studs or new header bolts, I'd also recommend starting all the nuts/bolts before tightening any of them down the whole way. There's not room to get some of them started in/on the threads if the header is pulled tight to the head. There's an a/c line bracket mounted to the frame up where your primaries start to sweep down. It's a threaded stud sticking out that takes a nut to tighten the clamp. Well, one of my primaries was pretty close to this threaded stud with the passenger side motor jacked up, and once I let the motor down and reconnected the motor mount bracket, my primary was in contact with this stud. This can be addressed a few ways. 1. You can shim you motor one way or another via the motor mount brackets. 2. You could reach up with a hacksaw blade and cut the threaded stud off just above the nut (please wear safety glasses). 3. You could relocate the bracket all together. I opted to hacksaw the end of the stud off, which gave me a good 1/4 clearance. Also, when you remove the starter there will be a gaping hole leading into the bell housing where your flywheel is. I taped this hole closed really good, and it's a good thing I did because I almost dropped my 1/4 wrench in there, which would require separating the motor from the tranny to retrieve it! That's about it for the passenger side.

Drivers side: No real tricks other than removing your air box for easier access, and making sure to put the steering shaft back on exactly as you took it off. I also marked most of the motor mount bolts with a marker so I can crawl underneath later and verify that they didn't loosen (just a habit that I have).

 

[garcy5oh]

I just installed a set of pypes last weekend.

First I'd recommend watching Bills install video over at CJPP. It covers the basics, but it also left quite a few things out. Removing the old stuff is pretty cut and dry, and Bills video covers this part pretty well. Removal was honestly pretty easy on both sides.

I started my instal on the passenger side because I heard it was the hardest, and I wanted to get it out of the way. Well, everybody was right, it was definitely the hardest.

Passenger side: I removed the starter and the motor mount bracket (make sure to support the engine before this step), but I didn't need to remove the actual motor mount itself from the frame like Bill did. The old stuff will now come off pretty easy. If you have O2 extensions, connect the passenger side front extension before you install the new header. I installed my header first and then realized afterwards that I could barely fit my arm up through to connect the O2 extension to the factory plug, as it is mounted to the back of the intake manifold (way up there). I also had to remove the factory front O2 plug from its original mounting point on the back of the intake manifold to give me an extra few inches of play in the lead (front O2 sensor would not reach without doing this). This O2 plug can probably be disconnected from the back of the intake manifold from above or below, but I had to do mine from above because I already had the header installed and there was not enough room for me to work from underneath. I reused the factory manifold studs, but I had to remove all but the front two to get enough clearance to slide the header into place (I also reused the old gaskets). I then reinstalled all factory studs with either a quarter inch socket or ratcheting wrench. Some you can reach from the bottom and some you have to reach from the top. The nuts then went on the same way. You'll need a combination of a ratchet & socket and a ratcheting wrench to tighten these, and like the studs, some are accessible from the top and some from the bottom. I only disconnected one motor mount bracket at a time, but I was able to jack the passenger side of the motor up slightly to make the top header nuts a little more accessible from the top. Everybody complains about the top front header bolt/nut, but I honestly had no issues at all with it, as it is pretty easily accessible with a ratcheting wretch from the top. Wether you're using the factory studs or new header bolts, I'd also recommend starting all the nuts/bolts before tightening any of them down the whole way. There's not room to get some of them started in/on the threads if the header is pulled tight to the head. There's an a/c line bracket mounted to the frame up where your primaries start to sweep down. It's a threaded stud sticking out that takes a nut to tighten the clamp. Well, one of my primaries was pretty close to this threaded stud with the passenger side motor jacked up, and once I let the motor down and reconnected the motor mount bracket, my primary was in contact with this stud. This can be addressed a few ways. 1. You can shim you motor one way or another via the motor mount brackets. 2. You could reach up with a hacksaw blade and cut the threaded stud off just above the nut (please wear safety glasses). 3. You could relocate the bracket all together. I opted to hacksaw the end of the stud off, which gave me a good 1/4 clearance. Also, when you remove the starter there will be a gaping hole leading into the bell housing where your flywheel is. I taped this hole closed really good, and it's a good thing I did because I almost dropped my 1/4 wrench in there, which would require separating the motor from the tranny to retrieve it! That's about it for the passenger side.

Drivers side: No real tricks other than removing your air box for easier access, and making sure to put the steering shaft back on exactly as you took it off. I also marked most of the motor mount bolts with a marker so I can crawl underneath later and verify that they didn't loosen (just a habit that I have).

Thank you! Very detailed and informative explanation, will definitely take your advice when I install mine next weekend.

 

[mxdave91]

When reconnecting your motor mount brackets, tighten the bracket to the motor first via the four 13mm bolts, and then lower the engine and bracket onto the motor mount pedestal and tighten the single nut that secures the motor mount bracket to the motor mount. Also, be careful not to jack the engine too high because there's sensors on the back of the intake manifold that will hit the firewall and break. Good luck

 

[beefcake]

actually they area great brand and fit pretty well. we have installed tons of them.

biggest thing with any brand, trim or remove the ac line bolt. thats about it.

and just be patient on the install

 

[mxdave91]

actually they area great brand and fit pretty well. we have installed tons of them.

biggest thing with any brand, trim or remove the ac line bolt. thats about it.

and just be patient on the install

Agreed. I love the quality, fit, and finish of my pypes headers. So glad you talked me into buying them. I couldn't be happier.

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