Handling and suspension

[Rodrigo1234]

I went with Steeda, no particular reason or feeling they were better than others like BMR.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-front-and-rear-sway-bar-kit-2015-555-1017.html

https://www.steeda.com/adjustable-stay-bar-endlinks.html

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-5536-mustang-extreme-g-trac-k-member-brace

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Stop-The-Hop-Starter-Kit-555-4455

This was going on a plain GT so I needed

https://www.steeda.com/ford-fr3z-16a200-d-mustang-gt-strut-tower-brace-black

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-cross-bar-fr3z16k038a

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-extension-panel-fr3z63016a52a

Hardware part numbers for strut tower brace and cowl mounting plate nuts
W712334-S440
W717964-S450B

Thanks for sharing your experience with Steeda parts! I appreciate the detailed links and recommendations. It’s helpful to see what you’ve used on your GT, and I’ll definitely consider those options

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[WItoTX]

I will let you in on a life changing secret I call the Tri-Formula. 3 things that are simpler than people lead you to believe.

The very first thing, the one that matters more than anything else is the brake compound you choose. Regardless of tires or chassis, if you can cut your braking point in half, you'll usually be faster than the guy behind you and in front of you. Regardless of caliper, for an S550, start with a Carbotech XP10F, XP8R. You now have an operating temp of over 1300°.

Next is a 200 treadwear tire. Won't overheat on a track or street and can still be safe in the rain.

Both of those will overpower the suspension at this point. A very good set of springs can fix this and an alignment. And on these cars you're not sacrificing ride quality. A PP shock, track shock will be better.

You can continue to go down the rabbit hole to fine tune but if you go by that formula, it becomes a different car.

200 TW tires overheat on track all the time. A052 is a prime example.

 

[Nickel]

OP, can you post a picture of your car?


Sorry if I'm mistaken, but the replies seem very AI like.

 

[Nickel]

200 TW tires overheat on track all the time. A052 is a prime example.

Not for a newbie they won't. They won't be pushing hard enough.

 

[Nickel]

OP, can you post a picture of your car?


Sorry if I'm mistaken, but the replies seem very AI like.

 

[young at heart]

Don't do that kit. Start with sphericals in the RLCA. You might even consider the front end too. Then drive it for a couple months. If it feels good, don't mess with it anymore.

Those are the single best upgrade you can do. All the bolt on stuff from Steeda is fine (And I have my fair share of bits), but my experience is it doesn't do much. But the sphericals they offer, that is a huge upgrade.

WiltoTX, to help the uninformed a bit can you please translate what are “sphericals“ and ”RLCA”? Hate to be a DA but it is what it is.

 

[young at heart]

OP, can you post a picture of your car?


Sorry if I'm mistaken, but the replies seem very AI like.

Check out his location.

That could do it. He’s likely fighting a ESL barrier and therefore maybe comes off a bit stilted.

 

[WItoTX]

WiltoTX, to help the uninformed a bit can you please translate what are “sphericals“ and ”RLCA”? Hate to be a DA but it is what it is.

Ha, sorry about that.

Install the spherical bearings and get rid of the rubber bushings in the Rear Lower Control Arm.

Here is a link to UPR's site which shows the location and what they look like:
https://www.uprproducts.com/15-24-mustang-rear-lower-control-arm-bearing-kit-s550-s650/

 

[young at heart]

Ha, sorry about that.

Install the spherical bearings and get rid of the rubber bushings in the Rear Lower Control Arm.

Here is a link to UPR's site which shows the location and what they look like:
https://www.uprproducts.com/15-24-mustang-rear-lower-control-arm-bearing-kit-s550-s650/

Thanks much!

 

[accel]

Thanks for the welcome! I mainly drive on backroads and occasionally take it out for some spirited driving on weekends. I’m not looking to track it or go off-roading, just want to enhance the handling for those twisty roads without making the ride too stiff for daily driving.

I'd not modify suspension unless I test it in environment like autocross.

You may throw in a bunch of components and get a perception of a car being sportier or so.

But this can also change the way the car behaves beyond traction limits, like oversteers like crazy which is bad in some critical situations. You will not know until this happens.

So maybe just get better shocks.

 

[young at heart]

I'd not modify suspension unless I test it in environment like autocross.

You may throw in a bunch of components and get a perception of a car being sportier or so.

But this can also change the way the car behaves beyond traction limits, like oversteers like crazy which is bad in some critical situations. You will not know until this happens.

So maybe just get better shocks.

Always wondered if a set of B6s front and rear by themselves would improve handling enough over stock to be worthwhile.

 

[accel]

Always wondered if a set of B6s front and rear by themselves would improve handling enough over stock to be worthwhile.

I'd been autocrossing awhile ago and got this mod bug at some point.

I tried a lot of things, but finally reverted to a setup with stock springs, adjustable shocks and one adjustable swaybar.

So literally just shocks that I'd made max stiff for event times and the sway bar to make the car neutral.

Worked for me and my DD/autoX car.

P.S. I see a lot of advice here like add X and Y and Z and do not forget to add some other part... All these things add weight ... and the car is already heavy... one has to be able to extract some real advantage from, say k brace to compensate extra weight one adds.

 

[tj@steeda]

Here is a great video we did to help provide insight for 1st suspension mods:

 

[S550HPP]

Always wondered if a set of B6s front and rear by themselves would improve handling enough over stock to be worthwhile.

B6 have a huge impact just need those and bigger front sway Eibach are great (see YouTube on how they make them with no welds and heat treated and quenched. Optimal for street in a GT. Front are a bit harsh over sharp high frequency edges in my HPP otherwise on highway and elsewhere really good. I will put Koni active on front in the spring.

 

[Nickel]

Interesting that after I mentioned AI, the OP abandoned this post.

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