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Fuse to pull when dyno the car

GR11M

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I just Dyno'd my car with holding down the traction button and everything appeared normal.

I've never driven an auto, do they have extra nanny features that is used in calculating the shifting, which is why pulling the fuse works for some and not others ?
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96gt4.6

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I pulled the 'fun' plug when I did my dyno as per Whipple's instructions.

As you can see, the plug has a loop of wire on the side you are unplugging, this circuit is the keyed power to the ABS/TC module, so by unplugging it you are only disabling the TC/ABS system.

Pulling the fuse works equally as well on the Dyno, but I believe the fuse may feed other modules like some have stated (without looking at the power distribution diagram).

Here's and easier way to look at the issue.

There is a reason that plug is there with a loop of wire on one side, and easily accessible under the hood.....it's for dyno testing at the factory. Stands to reason, you would use it for your dyno as well.
 

cahouston

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On a bone stock car on a dynojet, I did a run with the plug plugged in and one disconnected.

Connected: 444.29 / 407.2
Disconnected: 445.2 / 409.23

Pulls were back-to-back and there was a bit more variance between 110-130 mph.

IMG_20201016_152408~2.jpg
 

WildHorse

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Connected: 444.29 / 407.2
Disconnected: 445.2 / 409.23
Cute. Means nothing. The discrepancies are due to when he went WOT, and at what RPM he went WOT. I've said it before. Turning off the nannies via holding the the button is all you need to do.
 

cahouston

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Cute. Means nothing. The discrepancies are due to when he went WOT, and at what RPM he went WOT. I've said it before. Turning off the nannies via holding the the button is all you need to do.
I wasn't making an argument for or against it, just stating the result. IMO, I agree with you after looking at this. I had heard people talk about major differences before which it why I was curious to put it to the test since I was getting 2 pulls anyways.
 

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Soulja4187

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Cute. Means nothing. The discrepancies are due to when he went WOT, and at what RPM he went WOT. I've said it before. Turning off the nannies via holding the the button is all you need to do.
While your statement is true for a dyno. I seem many Mustang hit the wall at the dragstrip for not pulling the fuse.
 
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K4fxd

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Holding the button does not turn everything off.

You can see it in logs, it will cut spark.
 

WildHorse

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While your statement is true fora dyno. I seem many Mustang hit the wall at the dragstrip for not pulling the fuse.
For instance?
You can see it in logs, it will cut spark.
What ? I checked my timing.. didn't cut anything. just added, added, added. Then again that could be from the tune.
 

K4fxd

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Last time at the strip my spark went 30,30,30,30,30,30,-5,0,30

I checked spark source and it said TC.

This was after seeing the advance track off message.
 

Soulja4187

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For instance?

What ? I checked my timing.. didn't cut anything. just added, added, added. Then again that could be from the tune.
When at the dragstrip if the fuse is not pulled the car's computer starts going crazy because of many factors. Just to list a few, the rear wheels are spinning like crazy but the front ones are not, computer starts thinking traction is being lost so, power is reduced, stability control actives so the car could apply the brakes to the wheel it thinks it needs to slow down to gain traction and since the strip is a prep surface the car doesnt know any better and boom you hit a wall. Dont believe me, go to the track, turn off your advanced traction control and you will quickly realize that the car will reactive traction control.
 
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IrishStallion

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E85 tuned and been running unplugged (18 A10) for almost 2.5 years and 12k miles. Drag mode is built into my Sport on shifter. Logs are clean on shifts. ;).
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