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FRPP Handling Package installed and impressions

Todd15Fastback

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Hurry up and get your wheels, and then we can make a trip to the Dragon. Then we can for surely :cheers:

Brian
LOL!!! That is a good idea :). Especially in the fall with cooler weather and none of these 95-105 degree temperatures.
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Toothless

Toothless

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Trying to evaluate from afar, I think you might try backing off one click on the rear bar and see what you think. My experience has been the Mustang, with its ample power, is better off with a touch of understeer that can be countered with throttle application. If you are too neutral, you get premature oversteer, which is not the fast way around. (Kinda fun when it's tail-happy like that, but it will be scary in the wet and will be slower overall.)

See what you think. I appreciate your detailed write-up. I agree this package sounds like an effective improvement.
That was my exact thoughts. I was thinking about going down to the standard setting in the rear (only two holes, and I am on the stiffer one now). But what makes me think its a throttle over application issue, is that 3rd gear seems to hold the line well and not drift out into oversteer. I want to verify that with more turn time. But we are thinking the same thing. Always being leary of the back end coming around on you, will produce slower times. The car definitely has some oversteer issues in 2nd gear, but some of it might be me, and my tendency to think I'm driving the General Lee.
 

rcb020

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Not to derail, but can you provide more details on the wheels? Like how much do they weigh and did you need to run any spacers? Also, how strong are they?
 
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Toothless

Toothless

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Made by Rays in Japan. One of the strongest wheels made. Very high quality Japanese wheel.

19 x 10.5 +35 offset All 4 corners

Weight is about 23 to 24 lbs for 10.5 wide 19" wheel. No spacers needed. Slight poke in the rear with -1.5 stock rear camber and 285/35/19. Widest tire on front as is is 285. With 3 or 4mm spacer, 295 should fit on front. Rear go as wide as you like. The wider you go in rear the more it will poke out though. Center caps fit on rear, but dust cap interferes in the front slightly.
 

svtfever

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this makes me wonder if getting the PP is a worth while buy. It seems that this saves a few bucks, minus the wheels. considering wheels though- would this kit benefit better from a squared wheel setup as opposed to the PP wheels?
 

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BobbyV

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this makes me wonder if getting the PP is a worth while buy. It seems that this saves a few bucks, minus the wheels. considering wheels though- would this kit benefit better from a squared wheel setup as opposed to the PP wheels?

You also get 15in brakes, a torsen diff, a bigger radiator on top the PP sways and springs and a bunch of other stuff for ~2500.

IMO the breaks and the torsen diff alone make getting the PP worth it.
 
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Toothless

Toothless

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Plus. You can sell the PP wheels and tires for $1100 to $1300 depending on mileage. So that makes the diff and brakes cheap. To me the 255 tire on front of the PP car is not capable of creating enough grip on the front end of a 3700 lb car. It needs more tire and wheel to provide enough grip, IMO.

Still like the PP car. But prefer the PPP car much better.
 
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Toothless

Toothless

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Anything bigger than 255. Most wheels and offsets will accept 275 on the front. 285 will work, but takes up most of the available real estate up front. So I would say 275 would be a good bet.
 

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svtfever

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I will have to keep that in mind when I buy one of these
 

socalsnake

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swami

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did you leave the stock rubber spring bushings or go with polyurethane?
I love the quietness of this car and poly bushings work like a telegraph.
my car blows the doors off the comp stock in the qtr.
 

fogus

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I believe these are the complete instructions: http://fordperformanceracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-FR3A-M8.pdf (found here).

Also, [MENTION=14496]Toothless[/MENTION], can you confirm a few things for us? We are really wondering whether the shocks are the same as the PP shocks. If not, what are they? How do you find them different? What else can you tell us about how they differ from the stock PP struts?

I'd also love to know what the lowest point on your car is after lowering. How much ground clearance do you have (in inches)? Do you scrape often?
 
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MagneticGT

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