FRPP Handling Package installed and impressions

[jbailer]

Wonder what the max camber one can run on the rear of these cars for a DD? I am at -1.8/-1.6.

That's pretty close to what I'm at -2.0/-1.9. ALLDATA showed -1.5 +- 0.75 for the performance package or track package if that helps.

Kelly, what would you recommend for the rear camber?

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[HybridGT]

Would adding the Steeda "Stop the hop" package be beneficial, on top of this?

 

[RyanS550GT]

Would adding the Steeda "Stop the hop" package be beneficial, on top of this?

I will be doing this over the weekend.

Ford Performance Handling Package
Steeda Stop the Hop package
Steeds Diff Bushing Inserts

I will let you know.

 

[Toothless]

I will be doing this over the weekend.

Ford Performance Handling Package
Steeda Stop the Hop package
Steeds Diff Bushing Inserts

I will let you know.

So how did it turn out? The rear LCA knuckle bearing is a BIOTCH. If you haven't started installing the rear LCA knuckle bearing then take note of the following issues.

It took longer getting it pressed in and out than the whole rest of the kit. Make sure the ball joint press you get to press it out and in isn't bent. Mine was and cost me about 2 hours of issues. I finally got a loan a tool from Advance Auto that was new in the box and the parts were in good enough shape to use. Also, you need a socket with a 1 7/8" O.D. to press the stock one out, not a 1 1/4" socket like the directions shows. The 1 1/4" socket will press the rubber out of the bushing, but leaves the out sleeve. 1 3/16" Kobalt socket from Lowes is the perfect size , FYI.

Brian

 

[RyanS550GT]

So how did it turn out? The rear LCA knuckle bearing is a BIOTCH. If you haven't started installing the rear LCA knuckle bearing then take note of the following issues.

It took longer getting it pressed in and out than the whole rest of the kit. Make sure the ball joint press you get to press it out and in isn't bent. Mine was and cost me about 2 hours of issues. I finally got a loan a tool from Advance Auto that was new in the box and the parts were in good enough shape to use. Also, you need a socket with a 1 7/8" O.D. to press the stock one out, not a 1 1/4" socket like the directions shows. The 1 1/4" socket will press the rubber out of the bushing, but leaves the out sleeve. 1 3/16" Kobalt socket from Lowes is the perfect size , FYI.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for the insight on the bearing. I finished the front install yesterday and didn't get to the rear. I will be starting the rear today.

I also have the Steeda Stop the Hop package and Steeda Diff bushings to install as well.

I am thinking of skipping the bearing install right now because I don't have a press tool and my car is already on jack stands.

I will post up my results later today when I finish with the rear, but man I didn't expect the front to be such a biotch and it took me like 6 hours including one trip to the local Ace Hardware to get more deep well sockets.

We will see how the rear goes.

 

[RyanS550GT]

Also, did you find instructions? I didn't find them on Ford Performance's website for this install. I was just using instructions from Steeda and Ford Performance's spring install.

 

[Toothless]

Their aren't any instructions. I have to call Ford Racing Tech line and the guy sent me the rough draft of the install manual. Its not complete yet, and said nothing even about that rear bearing install. He later got the install directions on the rear bearing install and sent that in a PDF file to me. That one was complete, but had wrong info in it regarding the socket size. Everything else was correct. The front part of the install in the rough draft was just like the install videos at CJPony except for the fact they said to use red thread lock on all bolts that were one time use only. Just about every nut you take loose is one use only except for the lug nuts, so they are got red locktite.

Those front strut bolts (the splines ones) are a PITA to get out. I had to bang on mine for a while to get them to come out. An air hammer would be the ideal thing to use.

So it looks like you may be the 2nd person in the world to buy and install this kit. Ha ha

Brian

 

[RyanS550GT]

Their aren't any instructions. I have to call Ford Racing Tech line and the guy sent me the rough draft of the install manual. Its not complete yet, and said nothing even about that rear bearing install. He later got the install directions on the rear bearing install and sent that in a PDF file to me. That one was complete, but had wrong info in it regarding the socket size. Everything else was correct. The front part of the install in the rough draft was just like the install videos at CJPony except for the fact they said to use red thread lock on all bolts that were one time use only. Just about every nut you take loose is one use only except for the lug nuts, so they are got red locktite.

Those front strut bolts (the splines ones) are a PITA to get out. I had to bang on mine for a while to get them to come out. An air hammer would be the ideal thing to use.

So it looks like you may be the 2nd person in the world to buy and install this kit. Ha ha

Brian

I have been basically using Steeda and CJPonyParts videos to keep me up to speed.

I wasn't sure where to use the red locktite and why they needed since it wasn't used on the original bolts. It makes sense since the bolts are one time use, but I wish I would have thought about that when I installed.

I basically just used blue locktite on any bolt that had blue on it before. I cleaned the bolt and put on the blue before reinstall. I guess I should have used red. :(

Did you use red on the spline bolts too? I didn't put anything on those because it didn't have any from factory.

I was able to get the spline bolts out without too much trouble, but I did have to hammer the shite out of them. I also just had a regular hammer, which made it harder.

Yeah, I haven't heard of anyone else that has installed this yet, so it looks like just you and I right now.

 

[Poppacapp]

I have been basically using Steeda and CJPonyParts videos to keep me up to speed.

I wasn't sure where to use the red locktite and why they needed since it wasn't used on the original bolts. It makes sense since the bolts are one time use, but I wish I would have thought about that when I installed.

I basically just used blue locktite on any bolt that had blue on it before. I cleaned the bolt and put on the blue before reinstall. I guess I should have used red. :(

Did you use red on the spline bolts too? I didn't put anything on those because it didn't have any from factory.

I was able to get the spline bolts out without too much trouble, but I did have to hammer the shite out of them. I also just had a regular hammer, which made it harder.

Yeah, I haven't heard of anyone else that has installed this yet, so it looks like just you and I right now.

Brian had a regular hammer too. I laughed... Now I know what to expect when I do my car.

 

[Rv-Junke]

THANK YOU BOTH for keeping this post alive and doing all the hard work of testing this...I am really curious did this remove the bounce (Brian, now that you have had it several weeks)...also did adding the Steeda parts make it even better?

 

[leszek]

Here are all the nuts and bolts you will need for this kit. Ignore the first two entries on the list (x-pipe and subframe bolts)

 

[Branman]

Are the pictures you posted after the car settled?

 

[Toothless]

I had driven it for about 60 miles before posting the pictures. So, I'm not sure they were completely settled, but I haven't verified measurements since. The car still feels great. Still needs more grip on the front end. The car stays very planted in 3rd gear and up, but 2nd gear hard turns the back end will still break loose if you apply to much power with the wheel turned in. Car has too much low end and likes to wag its tail in 2nd gear.

 

[Toothless]

THANK YOU BOTH for keeping this post alive and doing all the hard work of testing this...I am really curious did this remove the bounce (Brian, now that you have had it several weeks)...also did adding the Steeda parts make it even better?

You're welcome. The bounce is not completely gone, but about 80% gone the best I can tell. I would not consider it a bouncy ride anymore with the new kit on it. To me, its how the car should have been delivered to us. Much better handling an no sacrifice in road manners (IMHO).

I didn't have any Steeda parts to put on.

Brian

 

[Toothless]

Sweet review! It is cool seeing that drop amount, it's almost exactly where I ended up putting our springs. Great companies think alike. ;)

The toe bearing is better than OEM. Definitely install it - these cars have horrible toe deflection issues.

The rear camber IS adjustable in stock form. There are inner camber link bolts that you can loosen, and they are sitting in a slotted mounting bracket. Definitely put some positive camber back in that thing.

Glad to see you like the kit overall.

The Ford tech did not know how to adjust the rear camber, and said I would need a rear camber adjustment kit if I wanted it adjusted. Can you please post pictures or a description of where the slotted mounting bracket is. They said they would adjust it, if I could get a better description of where it was.

Thanks,
Brian

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