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Front OEM Brake Pads

Caballus

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Wondering what folks are paying now for OEM front brake pads. Online price at White Bear Lake is $243 (part #FR3Z-2001-L).

@honeybadger is it necessary to change rotors if switching to Raybestos ST43s?
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jpsomner

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FWIW, I ran G-LOC R16 front, R10 rears (part # GP1853, GP1854) on track at NOLA and boiled the OEM fluid - twice. That lever in the console came into good use! This was in the fall and not the summer Louisiana heat. Braking (when the pedal was not on the floor) was phenomenal but, then again, it already was. Switched to Castrol SRF and will see if that solves the problem. But back to the point - I have found that OEM pads are more than sufficient for repeated track use and I haven't found the G-LOCs to be superior enough to warrant the trouble (they are a must-have in Spec Miata racing, though!).
 

honeybadger

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Wondering what folks are paying now for OEM front brake pads. Online price at White Bear Lake is $243 (part #FR3Z-2001-L).

@honeybadger is it necessary to change rotors if switching to Raybestos ST43s?
Officially I’ll tell you you to scuff the rotors and clean them. Unofficially, nope. They’re compatible compounds and just slap on the new pads and bed them in. Done this with a few cars without issue.


FWIW, I ran G-LOC R16 front, R10 rears (part # GP1853, GP1854) on track at NOLA and boiled the OEM fluid - twice. That lever in the console came into good use! This was in the fall and not the summer Louisiana heat. Braking (when the pedal was not on the floor) was phenomenal but, then again, it already was. Switched to Castrol SRF and will see if that solves the problem. But back to the point - I have found that OEM pads are more than sufficient for repeated track use and I haven't found the G-LOCs to be superior enough to warrant the trouble (they are a must-have in Spec Miata racing, though!).
I’ve used the G-Locs as well. Had 2 pads delaminates from the backing pad. Great pedal feel, but they’re terrible at handling the heat and barely last. The OEM pads are are safer, but only last 4-6 track hours under heavy use. The raybestos st43s will last 3-4 times as long.

Agree on the SRF, tho. Best fluid hands down.
 

Caballus

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Officially I’ll tell you you to scuff the rotors and clean them. Unofficially, nope. They’re compatible compounds and just slap on the new pads and bed them in. Done this with a few cars without issue.
Do the Raybestos ok on the street or do you only use them for track duty?
 

honeybadger

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Do the Raybestos ok on the street or do you only use them for track duty?
They’re fine for street. But dustier and louder than OEM. After a track day, it’s not uncommon for your car to sound like a school bus 😆
 

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ChiefDork

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My two cents are the OEM pads work great on the track until your skill level reaches a certain point. I did four track days and 14k road miles on the original pads. I replaced the front pads with OEM and returned to Sebring for a day at the track. I noticed on the way home the noise while braking at street speeds was much louder than normal. When I pulled the pads, this is what I found:

pads.jpg


That is from one day at Sebring. Granted, I am now going much faster and braking much harder, but it was a shock that I only got one day.
I am experimenting with Hawk DTC-60 this coming weekend at Sebring. I plan on only using those for track days; I'll switch back to OEM for street driving.
 

Caballus

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My two cents are the OEM pads work great on the track until your skill level reaches a certain point. I did four track days and 14k road miles on the original pads. I replaced the front pads with OEM and returned to Sebring for a day at the track. I noticed on the way home the noise while braking at street speeds was much louder than normal. When I pulled the pads, this is what I found:

pads.jpg


That is from one day at Sebring. Granted, I am now going much faster and braking much harder, but it was a shock that I only got one day.
I am experimenting with Hawk DTC-60 this coming weekend at Sebring. I plan on only using those for track days; I'll switch back to OEM for street driving.
Wow. That doesn't look normal. Seem defective.
 

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My two cents are the OEM pads work great on the track until your skill level reaches a certain point. I did four track days and 14k road miles on the original pads. I replaced the front pads with OEM and returned to Sebring for a day at the track. I noticed on the way home the noise while braking at street speeds was much louder than normal. When I pulled the pads, this is what I found:

pads.jpg


That is from one day at Sebring. Granted, I am now going much faster and braking much harder, but it was a shock that I only got one day.
I am experimenting with Hawk DTC-60 this coming weekend at Sebring. I plan on only using those for track days; I'll switch back to OEM for street driving.
As @Caballus said, that's not normal. Those pads are damaged and scorched, but they're not worn out. Are you absolutely sure they're not fake? What about the rotors? Are they ok? If you got that much damage on the pads and you didn't boil the brake fluid, then something's just not adding up.
 

ChiefDork

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As @Caballus said, that's not normal. Those pads are damaged and scorched, but they're not worn out. Are you absolutely sure they're not fake? What about the rotors? Are they ok? If you got that much damage on the pads and you didn't boil the brake fluid, then something's just not adding up.
The brakes worked fine stopping me from speed. I was getting vibration though. I now not only have new pads, but four new rotors too.

The damaged pads, if fake, were very well done. Ford box and sticker that showed the part number. I ordered them from a Ford dealer via the Web. I think it was Lakeland Ford.

I have never had an issue with brake fade or the pedal going to the floor. I think I'll chalk it up to defective pads. Or perhaps I just put too much heat into them. I am getting faster.
 

jpsomner

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I’ve used the G-Locs as well. Had 2 pads delaminates from the backing pad. Great pedal feel, but they’re terrible at handling the heat and barely last. The OEM pads are are safer, but only last 4-6 track hours under heavy use. The raybestos st43s will last 3-4 times as long.

Agree on the SRF, tho. Best fluid hands down.
Heard and will switch to raybestos as you suggest. Also, I switched to the SRF based upon your previous posts. Thanks.
 

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JAJ

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The brakes worked fine stopping me from speed. I was getting vibration though. I now not only have new pads, but four new rotors too.

The damaged pads, if fake, were very well done. Ford box and sticker that showed the part number. I ordered them from a Ford dealer via the Web. I think it was Lakeland Ford.

I have never had an issue with brake fade or the pedal going to the floor. I think I'll chalk it up to defective pads. Or perhaps I just put too much heat into them. I am getting faster.
Well then, they're probably real. But wow, they look really toasted.
 

Caballus

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The brakes worked fine stopping me from speed. I was getting vibration though. I now not only have new pads, but four new rotors too.

The damaged pads, if fake, were very well done. Ford box and sticker that showed the part number. I ordered them from a Ford dealer via the Web. I think it was Lakeland Ford.

I have never had an issue with brake fade or the pedal going to the floor. I think I'll chalk it up to defective pads. Or perhaps I just put too much heat into them. I am getting faster.
Be interested to see what the rotors look like after that.
 

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ChiefDork

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Be interested to see what the rotors look like after that.
I don't think the rotors look bad, but they are warped. This rotor has 16k road miles and 5 track days on it. Granted, days at the track as a noob are not all that hard on brakes.

I am still amazed at well the brakes on this car work. I have many scary memories of asking too much of the brakes on my 65 Mustang and 89 LX 5.0.

oldrotor.jpg
 

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Brakes are one component that can be more stressed by n00bs than by experienced drivers. N00bs (and lots of "pretty good but not amazing" drivers) tend to over-slow for corners, and that means longer brake applications and therefore more wear per application, and less cooling time between applications. Brake system needs are proportional to HP more than lap times.
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