Front Number Plate Holder - Discount Code: "Mustang6G" @ LakinPlates

[Billca]

It looks really (really) nice in that position. After watching the Cjapony parts video I bought the Sto N Sho as well. Then I heard a few comments about the US size number plate being the first thing to hit if the front kisses a high gutter, bending the plate. Once my car arrives I'll have a better idea but a photo from the side would be helpful if you have one.
The number plate sits in the central recess of the spoiler but is it behind the forward sections on either side of the recess? What would contact first if you touched the gutter, spoiler or number plate?

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[Billca]

Geese that was quick. Why did you reverse the mounting plate or am I mistaken ? Thanks G RUSH

 

[G RUSH]

Yeh licence plate would hit first.

It has SUV ground clearance tho, I haven't scraped anything as yet haha

The mounting bracket for the PP is reversed as shown, non-PP USA cars have it the other way due to different chin.

 

[IngotGT2016]

As requested

any issues with the mounting of the Plate?
did the supplied screws etc fit?
what screws did you use for the actual plate?
Colour is awesome BTW:clap2:

 

[G RUSH]

any issues with the mounting of the Plate?
did the supplied screws etc fit?
what screws did you use for the actual plate?
Colour is awesome BTW:clap2:

Screws to attach bracket to underbody were all good - dealer fitted.

Screws provided for plates waay too big and useless, plus my Sto N Sho was trimmed and I drilled new 5 mm holes for M5 bolts.

Still looking for the perfect cap head bolts, these will do for now. They're a bit too long. But the allenhead + nut combo provide good security if someone doesn't know how a Sto N Sho works.

The rear is a different story, factory bolt holes are at 178 mm centers, our WA plate holes don't fit this so it means you would need to drill plates. I've temporarily mounted them with one screw and a little bit of double sided tape (which seems to be holding up OK) until my lakin rear bracket arrives (ordered today) haha

 

[IngotGT2016]

Screws to attach bracket to underbody were all good - dealer fitted.

Screws provided for plates waay too big and useless, plus my Sto N Sho was trimmed and I drilled new 5 mm holes for M5 bolts.

Still looking for the perfect cap head bolts, these will do for now. They're a bit too long. But the allenhead + nut combo provide good security if someone doesn't know how a Sto N Sho works.

The rear is a different story, factory bolt holes are at 178 mm centers, our WA plate holes don't fit this so it means you would need to drill plates. I've temporarily mounted them with one screw and a little bit of double sided tape (which seems to be holding up OK) until my lakin rear bracket arrives (ordered today) haha

Thanks my Lakin rear bracket due to arrive this week so hopefully that should be ok to get here before my car.
looking at your photo again of the front and looking at my bracket again is your locator pin engaged?
Just that my bracket has the cutout on the other arm?

 

[G RUSH]

Thanks my Lakin rear bracket due to arrive this week so hopefully that should be ok to get here before my car.
looking at your photo again of the front and looking at my bracket again is your locator pin engaged?
Just that my bracket has the cutout on the other arm?

The rails (arms?) on my bracket have one cutout each, at different location along the rail.

I'm assuming that the non - PP version with (different splitter) mounts at a different offset location when the actual underside bracket is flipped the other way. As far as I can tell, the only difference between non PP and PP version (i think) is the spacers that are supplied with the kit, otherwise one is just flipped when mounting.

Engagement is really positive so it's definitely locked and loaded

 

[IngotGT2016]

The rails (arms?) on my bracket have one cutout each, at different location along the rail.

I'm assuming that the non - PP version with (different splitter) mounts at a different offset location when the actual underside bracket is flipped the other way. As far as I can tell, the only difference between non PP and PP version (i think) is the spacers that are supplied with the kit, otherwise one is just flipped when mounting.

Engagement is really positive so it's definitely locked and loaded

OK thanks hope mine works then, my pull ring slot is on the right hand arm.

 

[Burkey]

Um, excuse my ignorance but what stops someone from making off with your plate when you have the sto n show fitted?

 

[IngotGT2016]

Um, excuse my ignorance but what stops someone from making off with your plate when you have the sto n show fitted?

Guns and ammo

No really ...you can delete the pin ring pull if you want .
To remove you would need a tool of some kind.
No more hassle than taking a normally mounted plate.

 

[ozengine]

Um, excuse my ignorance but what stops someone from making off with your plate when you have the sto n show fitted?

Really what stops any plate being taken with any system, 1 minute 1 screwdriver

 

[ozengine]

Fitted the Lakim rear holder and cover today, front tomorrow, communicating with Phil is easy he is a gentleman, had a slight problem with older NSW slim line plates but easy fixed, looks great

 

[Burkey]

Really what stops any plate being taken with any system, 1 minute 1 screwdriver

True, but how many people walk around with a screwdriver in their pocket?
A simple ring pull makes it an EASY target for dickheads.
Just saying...:shrug:

 

[jumby]

True, but how many people walk around with a screwdriver in their pocket?
A simple ring pull makes it an EASY target for dickheads.
Just saying...:shrug:

I doubt that any local bogan thief will even know that there is a pull ring - certainly isn't visible at any angle :headbonk::headbonk::headbonk:

 

[FPV GT]

Have seen a modification where a small padlock had been affixed.
Defeats the purpose of a quick and easy removal at show time, however defeats the quick and easy theft, as standard setup.

If someone wants the plates bad enough, they will get them.

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