Front Camber Help

[bguerrero13]

As the title says, I need some help with front camber. I just got a new wheel and tire setup with an aggressive offset. 20x10 et25 with 275/35 up front. I'm also lowered on eibach sportline springs for the ecoboost performance pack which I believe is slightly lower than the sportlines for the GT.

I'm having rubbing issues whenever I'm going through dips. Hoping someone can chime in on how much camber I should run, and if the front is even adjustable without camber bolts or plates. I'm pretty new to wheel and suspension mods, so any additional explaining is appreciated!

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[Burkey]

You may be in trouble here. There is no adjustment from the factory for a start. So, you're going to need to select a method of gaining camber adjustment.
I did a thread in the Aussie section a while back, aimed at the rear of the car, but it is vaguely useful for the front.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76155&highlight=Camber

You can go here to enter your own numbers
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

You'll quickly find that each 0.1 degree is basically 1mm of rim movement at the top of the wheel eg. The total difference top to bottom will be 2mm, assumption being that the wheel pivots from its centre, which it doesn't, but it's close enough to make some predictions.

Confused yet?

 

[NightmareMoon]

If you're rubbing on the outside fender, you can definitely add some front camber to tuck that bad boy inside the fender better.

To get more camber you can:
1) Buy some camber plates, or
2) Run crash bolts instead of your stock strut-to-spindle bolts to get a little adjustment, or
3) Slot your strut to spindle bolt holes a couple of mm with the factory bolts.

 

[qtrracer]

^^^^^ Use the slotting method. Ford racing has a process for that mod. You can also loosen all the suspension parts and move them to your desired position and then torque to spec. There is some slop that you can use to your advantage.

 

[bguerrero13]

[MENTION=21513]Burkey[/MENTION] Took me a couple reads to understand but I think I somewhat get it haha.

 

[bguerrero13]

I think I'll try the slotting method first. I don't really want to buy plates since I'm not tracking my car. Do you guys happen to have a link to ford racing's process on how to do it? Or a thread to another member who's tried it?

Also, I caught is there a reason why your calling the camber bolts, "crash bolts"
[MENTION=19933]NightmareMoon[/MENTION] [MENTION=24974]qtrracer[/MENTION]

 

[NightmareMoon]

They're sometimes used to "fix" camber issues in a car thats been in a wreck. IDK if thats the most common use or not. Same thing with that slotting procedure.

You can do it yourself with the strut off the car and some patience with a dremmel. With either method you'll want an alignment afterwards to correct your front toe once camber has changed.

How much clearance do you need? Slotting or camber bolts will only get you so far.

 

[bguerrero13]

Oh okay, I thought the bolts were know for causing crash or something haha good to know though. It don't think I need that much camber maybe 1-1.5 degree is my guess, but then again I don't know much either. I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow morning it never lets me post pics through my phone.

Yeah I do plan on getting an alignment afterwards to make sure everything else is within factory specs. Toe should be slightly positive right...like .2?

 

[jbailer]

For the front and rear, you want a slight toe in, about 0.10 total.

 

[bguerrero13]

For the front and rear, you want a slight toe in, about 0.10 total.

What should my caster be at?


I just went ahead bought BMR camber bolts, couldn't find a local shop that wanted to slot the struts. I don't trust myself with doing a permanent mod Like that..I don't want to mess anything up. :headbonk:

 

[jbailer]

What should my caster be at?


I just went ahead bought BMR camber bolts, couldn't find a local shop that wanted to slot the struts. I don't trust myself with doing a permanent mod Like that..I don't want to mess anything up. :headbonk:

The S550 actually does very well with caster, that's why you don't see many plates that adjust for both caster and camber. The range is 6.5 to 8.0, just try to reach as much in that range as possible. They got mine to 7.7

 

[bguerrero13]

Here's a couple pictures of how the wheel sits now. Can anyone tell if the 2.5 degree of adjustability on the BMR cam bolts will be enough to tuck the tire just enough? Currently waiting on the bolts to arrive from LMR

 

[NightmareMoon]

An additional 2.5 degrees of negative camber would move the top of the tire in approximately 1/2". It should help regardless, but you picked an agressive drop (1.5"), so dips may still be an issue.

 

[GJarrett]

I think I'll try the slotting method first. I don't really want to buy plates since I'm not tracking my car. Do you guys happen to have a link to ford racing's process on how to do it? Or a thread to another member who's tried it?

I would also like to know

 

[MtnBiker]

For the front and rear, you want a slight toe in, about 0.10 total.

If my camber compilation is correct:

Rear toe-in should be about .12 each side
Front OEM spec is zero but some recommend slight (.02) toe-in for on-center feel and stability.

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