forscan use help

[Tomster]

Most use the bluetooth OBDLinkMx. I can't comment about your cable. Ill try to get out there tomorrow and do a step by step for you.

So why are you are trying to turn the pump on? If you are changing differential fluid, all you have to do is measure the amount you drain and replace that same exact amount. I know what the manual says, but running the pump isn't really necessary and really shouldn't be done while the fluid is cold.

I'll try to get out and come up with a step by step tomorrow in case you really need it.

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[torque124]

Most use the bluetooth OBDLinkMx. I can't comment about your cable. Ill try to get out there tomorrow and do a step by step for you.

So why are you are trying to turn the pump on? If you are changing differential fluid, all you have to do is measure the amount you drain and replace that same exact amount. I know what the manual says, but running the pump isn't really necessary and really shouldn't be done while the fluid is cold.

I'll try to get out and come up with a step by step tomorrow in case you really need it.

Thank you; I would really want to run it and make sure I got everything out of there. I noticed how black the fluid was on my previous track pack at first change, and I figured if I run the pump I have a better chance of removing everything... I know I can measure it and just put as much in as I take out... Just wanted to be thorough for once.
I would warm her up before changing fluids, I always do anyways... I was planning to change all 3 when I lift her up, engine oil, transmission and diff; now that I completed 2 track days with it and she's at around 4500 miles..
I don't need a step by step, just a little guide on how to get to R_DIFF_PUMP activation ( I got there, just wondering if I was doing something bad with my old cable; new cable arriving tomorrow).

Thanks again.

 

[Tomster]

You will never get it all out. Don't bother. Drain. Measure the exact amount of fluid, replace that exact amount. I looked at forscan last night, but it has to be hooked up to a vehicle to be able to take meaningful screenshots to help.

 

[Tomster]

Oh, and you cant use the pump to drain the fluid. At least you shouldn't. You only run the pump after the refill to eliminate cavitation on the line. All you have to really do is take it out for a drive and get the differential warm enough (about the 180 degree point) to initiate the pump to actuate.

So let me see what I can do.

 

[Tomster]

I have your solution. give me a bit to write it up.

 

[Tomster]

Step by step below. Do not use the pump to drain fluid and only operate pump when fluid is at temperature. When cold, the fluid is very viscous and could damage your pump. It was not designed to run cold.

 

[torque124]

Step by step below. Do not use the pump to drain fluid and only operate pump when fluid is at temperature. When cold, the fluid is very viscous and could damage your pump. It was not designed to run cold.

Thank you very much sir!

 

[JAJ]

Thank you; I would really want to run it and make sure I got everything out of there. I noticed how black the fluid was on my previous track pack at first change, and I figured if I run the pump I have a better chance of removing everything... I know I can measure it and just put as much in as I take out... Just wanted to be thorough for once.
I would warm her up before changing fluids, I always do anyways... I was planning to change all 3 when I lift her up, engine oil, transmission and diff; now that I completed 2 track days with it and she's at around 4500 miles..
I don't need a step by step, just a little guide on how to get to R_DIFF_PUMP activation ( I got there, just wondering if I was doing something bad with my old cable; new cable arriving tomorrow).

Thanks again.

As @Tomster said, the pump isn't connected in a way that will allow it to help with removing fluid. It pulls fluid out of the lower connection on the differential cover, pushes it through the cooler and returns it to the upper connection. Running the pump after a fluid change just makes sure that there's no air trapped in the cooler circuit so you get a valid reading when you check to make sure the diff fluid is at the correct level. That's why, if you put the exact amount in that you took out, the level in the diff will be perfect after the air in the cooler line gets purged after the diff gets warm enough for the pump to run.

I know how nasty the fluid looks at the first change. Thing is, after the second change, it's a lot better so, change it, run it for a while to get it warm, run the pump with Forscan and then change it again.

 

[torque124]

Man thanks again all. I managed to connect with the new cable, and it's much faster... the live data works now and I can see my pump buttons enabled. Didn't turn it on, car was cold; but I managed to program out that annoying double honk when you leave your car to close you garage door or whatever.
This cable has a much faster baud rate also than the other one, I highly recommend it (auto switching from ms-can to hs-can):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Tomster]

Man thanks again all. I managed to connect with the new cable, and it's much faster... the live data works now and I can see my pump buttons enabled. Didn't turn it on, car was cold; but I managed to program out that annoying double honk when you leave your car to close you garage door or whatever.
This cable has a much faster baud rate also than the other one, I highly recommend it (auto switching from ms-can to hs-can):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only time I use the pump feature is after a diff fluid change to make sure the pump isn't cavitated. Other than that, it doesn't have much use except to test that its working.

 

[torque124]

I managed to stuff up the diff fluid change.... The stupid pump I am using has some very stiff hoses and I knocked down the bottle of oil... I measured about 1.75 quarts coming out of the diff, but now I have no clue how much I put in... at least 1/4 of quart was on the floor.
I had some extra so I topped up, but it seems that I cannot fill back up to what I took out... it starts coming out. I believe it is due to the cooler being empty?
I am planning to warm her up and activate the pump, and then check the level...

How do I determine if level is OK; I read something like 9mm under the hole when car is level ?

Thanks

 

[JAJ]

I managed to stuff up the diff fluid change.... The stupid pump I am using has some very stiff hoses and I knocked down the bottle of oil... I measured about 1.75 quarts coming out of the diff, but now I have no clue how much I put in... at least 1/4 of quart was on the floor.
I had some extra so I topped up, but it seems that I cannot fill back up to what I took out... it starts coming out. I believe it is due to the cooler being empty?
I am planning to warm her up and activate the pump, and then check the level...

How do I determine if level is OK; I read something like 9mm under the hole when car is level ?

Thanks

The correct level is 9mm below the bottom of the fill hole when level. I use a piece of bent wire that's 10mm, so when the end gets oil on it, I'm done. BTW - I put 56 ounces of fluid into mine every time I change it and it's dead on the full mark. That's 1.75 quarts, so what you measured matches my experience.

The cooler doesn't drain empty when you change the fluid - the lower hose empties but the pump doesn't drain. If you're at the bottom of the fill hole now, you'll probably have to take some oil out once you've got it warmed up and run the pump.

 

[torque124]

The correct level is 9mm below the bottom of the fill hole when level. I use a piece of bent wire that's 10mm, so when the end gets oil on it, I'm done. BTW - I put 56 ounces of fluid into mine every time I change it and it's dead on the full mark. That's 1.75 quarts, so what you measured matches my experience.

The cooler doesn't drain empty when you change the fluid - the lower hose empties but the pump doesn't drain. If you're at the bottom of the fill hole now, you'll probably have to take some oil out once you've got it warmed up and run the pump.

Thanks. I ran the pump after a bit of a drive (it is quite noisy, I am pretty sure I never heard it before), and then I checked the level. It was up to the fill hole, so overfilled. I used your method with a bent wire, sucked some out and got it down to approximately 9-10mm, hard to do it very precisely.
The fluid I took out was still dirty, I suppose there is still a lot in the diff left undrained when you do it... So I bought another 2 bottles and friction modifier and will do another change; should be set for at least 6 track events after that ?

 

[JAJ]

Thanks. I ran the pump after a bit of a drive (it is quite noisy, I am pretty sure I never heard it before), and then I checked the level. It was up to the fill hole, so overfilled. I used your method with a bent wire, sucked some out and got it down to approximately 9-10mm, hard to do it very precisely.
The fluid I took out was still dirty, I suppose there is still a lot in the diff left undrained when you do it... So I bought another 2 bottles and friction modifier and will do another change; should be set for at least 6 track events after that ?

Having done the change, which replaces about 87% (you changed 56 ounces, and a complete fill from empty is 64 ounces) of the fluid, you're probably fine for six track days as it stands. If the dark color concerns you, though, a second change will get the remnants of the original fluid down from 13% to less than 2%. It'll be a lot lighter after that.

Also, I've never heard mine running when I'm driving, so it's definitely quieter than everything else that's going on. What I have noticed though is that when I run it with Forscan, it's noisy. When I run it with Ford IDS, it's a quiet hum.

 

[Tomster]

wow, spot on JAJ.

I would have offered the same advice.

For the OP, its important to not overfill the diff fluid. Filling to the Bottom of the fill hole will mean the diff fluid will vent all over your right rear shock and springs during high G turns under track conditions

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