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Aluminium corrosion can be easily and permanently fixed. Acid clean, alodine and epoxy . It will not come back if done properly.
The problem is that it may surface in a area that was not properly prepped at the factory .
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baazooka

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Hello; The idea is two different metals touching have different basic ways of moving electrons around. One metal will corrode while the other does not. On out board boat motors and in home water heaters a zinc bit of metal is often attached. Called a sacrificial anode. The zinc will corrode and the other meta does not. Often it is when the anode is corroded away that the inside walls of a water heater will rust.
Anyway, I have wondered how aluminum body panels work with steel bolts, screws and other steel parts of a car. I may be way off on my thinking on this and do not actually know what causes the corrosion.
There's lots of threads on the subject that have it nailed down if you can find them. That's really cool science. Reminds me of John Harrison, who invented the first sea clock- he compensated for weather changes by pinning two different metals tabs together so they would cancel out any thermal expansion/contraction.
 
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Aluminium corrosion can be easily and permanently fixed. Acid clean, alodine and epoxy . It will not come back if done properly.
The problem is that it may surface in a area that was not properly prepped at the factory .
Would love to take it on myself if I had the time, and since it's my only car, I can't really leave it somewhere for days.
 
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baazooka

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Its not corrosion, its character. LOL I think they call it elegant patina.
Dont need my hood looking like boot strap bill thank you very much.
1666883092150.png
 

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As a side note, when the aluminium has been cleaned, it must be immediately treated and then primered. It must not be touched with bare hands .
The primer used must also be specific for aluminium .
Zinc Chromate primer is highly toxic etc, but is probably as good as it gets.
If u never want any corrosion to come back, u have to strip all the paint and redo treatment to the whole panel.

I don’t think the average panel paint shop really knows how to treat aluminium. U must ensure whoever you use knows their stuff.
 

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Would love to take it on myself if I had the time, and since it's my only car, I can't really leave it somewhere for days.
You can do it yourself. At least do the prep and then let someone respray.
However as has been mentioned, perhaps a good used one is cheapest and least painful solution.
 
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As a side note, when the aluminium has been cleaned, it must be immediately treated and then primered. It must not be touched with bare hands .
The primer used must also be specific for aluminium .
Zinc Chromate primer is highly toxic etc, but is probably as good as it gets.
If u never want any corrosion to come back, u have to strip all the paint and redo treatment to the whole panel.

I don’t think the average panel paint shop really knows how to treat aluminium. U must ensure whoever you use knows their stuff.
Thanks for the tips, my plan is to amputate the affected limb :muscle:. Then if someone wants to buy it and do the repair I can get some money for it.

EDIT: I don't want to practice in a one-shot situation lol
 

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And for anyone that wants to learn about aluminium treatment , preparation and painting, Google aircraft repainting etc.
Look into filiform corrosion treatment. This is a nightmare for aircraft skins, often resultant to previous shortcutting and or lack of correct and regular cleaning .

I am reasonably certain the corrosion we get on our mustangs is a Filiform corrosion.
 
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baazooka

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Can always take the opportunity to go carbon fiber.
Most likely fiber glass, since I don't 'got it like that'. The money is better spent on a tire upgrade. I feel like the car is still a pig with a carbon hood. Basically twice the cost for like 10 or so pounds off the front.
 

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I had the same issue with my 06GT which I bought new (hood... front edge). It started to bubble in 07. Had it fixed twice by Ford under warranty and once out of pocket in 2019. Looked great when I traded it in in 2021. I believe Ford has had a TSB on this since 05....its a shame they can't get it right. Before the last repaint I consdiered an aftermarket fiberglass hood.
 

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The problem with a used hood is that it will eventually do the same - if it hasn't already. Whereas if you clean yours, corrosion-treat it and respray it, you may fix it for good.
 
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The problem with a used hood is that it will eventually do the same - if it hasn't already. Whereas if you clean yours, corrosion-treat it and respray it, you may fix it for good.
It seems like most people don't have it, many do but if I find a 15-17 in the next few years , if it hasn't started yet I think it would be fine unless the panel got exposed by damage. Also fiber glass can't rust 100% of the time
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