(FORD CAN’T DIAGNOSE) 2017 GT350 Rear End Pop (videos)

[Caseindaplace]

Hello!

Thank you for having me as a member. I hope to learn from you as well as contribute.

As the title says, my 2017 AG GT350 (25k Miles original motor) has developed a POP in the rear end. Parked it one day in the garage, a week later it was there. Assumed it was a bad axle joint or just a loose bolt in the control arm or suspension component.

Took it to a Ford dealer for diagnosis as my rhino ramps at home only got me so far. After a week of having it and waiving of the diagnosis fee, the dealer returned my car to me with no answer as to what the cause is nor a solution. They stated they could replicate it and do hear it, however after loosening and re-torqued every suspension bolt including axle nuts. No dice.

I have two videos below. Driving forward and backwards. It only occurs from a zero start when accelerating from a stop in first. You can avoid the pop if you ease into rolling forward (or backwards) very very slowly however under normal driving or even a light jolt forwards (or backwards) you hear the pop.

Any thoughts as I will have to take it to get a second opinion?

FORWARD


REVERSE

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[DCShelby]

CV joints gone bad.

 

[FreePenguin]

If they can't diagnose it, they should replace anything it could be for free. Under warranty. 5 year drivetrain. Warranty money, toss parts at it til its fixed. I can't believe they give it back and say we don't know.

 

[Caseindaplace]

CV joints gone bad.

Right that’s what I was thinking but they claim to have checked them and did some 100+ point inspection. Could have been overlooked?

 

[Caseindaplace]

If they can't diagnose it, they should replace anything it could be for free. Under warranty. 5 year drivetrain. Warranty money, toss parts at it til its fixed. I can't believe they give it back and say we don't know.

Yes it was a tad awkward takings my keys back and them saying we can’t help.

Now they did mention that they found some kind of bent bracket on IRS cradle on the passenger rear as well as some interior wheel scuffing same area. It was bent on the lip of the bracket next to the big bolt on the passenger side away from the center of the car, more towards the outer edge of the cradle bracket. I bought this car used with no mention of the rear damage / repair on any vehicle report. I had no idea until now. No issues since I got It and put about 1K+ on it. I wonder if they would associate whatever happened to cause that repair before my ownership with this new problem? Like we found old damage so we aren’t willing to go any further

 

[DCShelby]

Jack up the rear and get the tires off the ground. Then go to each wheel and move it back and forth to see if you hear it. Check the CV boots are not torn and have leaked out the grease. Could also be the lash in the rear diff is gone bad by the shim in the lsd cracked or something.

 

[Caseindaplace]

Jack up the rear and get the tires off the ground. Then go to each wheel and move it back and forth to see if you hear it. Check the CV boots are not torn and have leaked out the grease. Could also be the lash in the rear diff is gone bad by the shim in the lsd cracked or something.

Ford claims to have checked the wheels while jacked up but I can not confirm. I’ll have to do that myself. When I wes underneath the car on rhino ramps the cv boots were not torn or leaking. I also checked it when it was on the rack at ford. Visually from the outside nothing was obvious other than the IRS bracket had been bent next to the bolt on the passenger side but on the outer edge of the bracket away from the center. The lip basically next to the bolt. The shop mechanic said he didn’t believe it to be linked to occur all of a sudden now. Not sure what his boss thought though

 

[DCShelby]

I’d take the wheels off and clean the hubs, then put wheels back on and make sure they are using the correct lug nuts and they are properly torqued. CTSVs used to get a similar clunk like that due to wheel not seated properly and lug nuts to tightened to spec.

 

[Caseindaplace]

I’d take the wheels off and clean the hubs, then put wheels back on and make sure they are using the correct lug nuts and they are properly torqued. CTSVs used to get a similar clunk like that due to wheel not seated properly and lug nuts to tightened to spec.

I can try this for sure. Can we jack our cars up via regular jack and / or jack stands?

 

[JAJ]

I had a problem like this - not exactly the same but similar - on a BMW. It was the parking brake - something loose inside the hub that the dealer found when they looked into it.

 

[wproctor411]

I have experienced a stuck PB pad. Very similar.

I had a problem like this - not exactly the same but similar - on a BMW. It was the parking brake - something loose inside the hub that the dealer found when they looked into it.

 

[Caseindaplace]

I noticed on the passenger side rear wheel that one of the lug nuts was sticking out further than the others. I went ahead and took the wheel off and reset the wheel onto the hub and snug it back together star pattern. All lugs are flush. Took it out for a spin, heard the noise one time but from the driver side and not as loud. So I also reset the driver rear wheel but couldn’t test so I’ll try out and report back.

I also have a slot with another mechanic to inspect major components coming up

 

[sublime1996525]

That sucks man. CV was my guess too. And of course they can’t diagnose it because it doesn’t throw a code on their scanner...

 

[Lurker_350]

I noticed on the passenger side rear wheel that one of the lug nuts was sticking out further than the others. I went ahead and took the wheel off and reset the wheel onto the hub and snug it back together star pattern. All lugs are flush. Took it out for a spin, heard the noise one time but from the driver side and not as loud. So I also reset the driver rear wheel but couldn’t test so I’ll try out and report back.

I also have a slot with another mechanic to inspect major components coming up

I think one of the long term test cars at either Car and Driver or MotorTrend had a similar issue that was fixed by taking the wheels off, cleaning the mating faces, and re-installing with appropriate torque.

 

[Caseindaplace]

That sucks man. CV was my guess too. And of course they can’t diagnose it because it doesn’t throw a code on their scanner...

As it was mine too. I assume ford wouldn’t over look that so if they couldn’t find anything obvious or major then has to be something small. Hopefully.

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