FIXED! Help. Installed mids - 9 speaker- no sound!

[Qcman17]

Yes. I did undo the Factory EQ with Forscan before my stereo mods. I would say it did make a difference for the better. Maybe more for people who listen to the rear speakers. I don't so I didn't notice a change back there. But this should absolutely be done if you plan on using the rear channels to feed a LOC or an amp with high-level inputs for a subwoofer.

I have the rears active but I am definitely faded more to the fronts so it may help some I will have to see. I have to read up on forescan to figure out what would need to be edited in it though I've seen postings about it. Thx

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[Qcman17]

For your consideration: For $75 the Hertz 87.3 speakers and 600hz bass blockers with centre and tweeter disconnected is a dramatic upgrade even with no sub. Then turn up the bass, treble and mids nearly all the way. I tried this front speakers only with the bass blockers to test and I could have easily lived with just those speakers. For under $100 you have great bang for buck.

later on
then the line level sub and amp. You may even find a sealed 10” with amp from a pawn shop. I got the wiring kit from princess auto for $30 - 4 gauge in copper.

I have to confess I had no idea what BB were but it seems they act almost like a crossover control. My center is disconnected where did you disconnect the tweeters by chance?

 

[StangTime]

I have to confess I had no idea what BB were but it seems they act almost like a crossover control. My center is disconnected where did you disconnect the tweeters by chance?

Yes. Bass blockers are simply a film capacitor that forms a basic 6db/octave high-pass crossover when wired in series with one of the tweeter leads.

 

[DrZed]

I have to confess I had no idea what BB were but it seems they act almost like a crossover control. My center is disconnected where did you disconnect the tweeters by chance?

... as Stangtime said it is a capacitor wired to the positive speaker lead inline. It "rolls" off 600 Hz and below signals 6db at a time is my understanding. It literally blocks certain frequencies, and it is a good solution if you don't rewire the entire system with an "active" crossover and set it manually.

Come by my place some day and we can spend half the day installing them. This is what you'd purchase:

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html
QTY 1

https://www.crutchfield.ca/S-GqMuXJvuyYZ/p_301DCX873/Hertz-DCX-87-3.html
QTY1

If you DO want to do this I'll split the cost on the second set of Hertz DCX speakers and another set of bass blockers and we can both put one of them in our centre channels, then you'd order two of each of the above.

 

[Qcman17]

... as Stangtime said it is a capacitor wired to the positive speaker lead inline. It "rolls" off 600 Hz and below signals 6db at a time is my understanding. It literally blocks certain frequencies, and it is a good solution if you don't rewire the entire system with an "active" crossover and set it manually.

Come by my place some day and we can spend half the day installing them. This is what you'd purchase:

https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html
QTY 1

https://www.crutchfield.ca/S-GqMuXJvuyYZ/p_301DCX873/Hertz-DCX-87-3.html
QTY1

If you DO want to do this I'll split the cost on the second set of Hertz DCX speakers and another set of bass blockers and we can both put one of them in our centre channels, then you'd order two of each of the above.

Hey Cam, sorry for the late reply I've been moving to a new house for the past 3 days so I've been running around a lot. Only about a 10km move but it's felt like a 1000. Yeah I'd be down for something like that. So that little change made that much difference to the system? Wow!

 

[chalexander]

I did this upgrade myself using Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX co-axials.

Also disconnected the A pillar tweeters and center channel speaker. The difference was highly noticeable in a good way.

The only thing I needed to do was turn down the mid and high frequencies on the factory EQ as there was just a tad too much "zing" for my liking. Mid is now set at -2 and High is set at -2.

 

[DrZed]

Hey Cam, sorry for the late reply I've been moving to a new house for the past 3 days so I've been running around a lot. Only about a 10km move but it's felt like a 1000. Yeah I'd be down for something like that. So that little change made that much difference to the system? Wow!

Cool... we'll sort it out

I did this upgrade myself using Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX co-axials.

Also disconnected the A pillar tweeters and center channel speaker. The difference was highly noticeable in a good way.

The only thing I needed to do was turn down the mid and high frequencies on the factory EQ as there was just a tad too much "zing" for my liking. Mid is now set at -2 and High is set at -2.

Yes I looked at those... based on this thread where the guy did the same thing:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...er-upgrade-2016-eu-ind-spec-mustang-gt.83663/

I was going to get these Infinity speakers but shipping was over two weeks, and Crutchfield had the Hertz 48 hours from my door. Both the Infinity and Hertz had the highest sensitivity rating which was good for the stock system. Appreciate the advice on turning down the mid/treble.

 

[DrZed]

How smooth was the Hertz 87.3 install?

I chose to mount them in the factory plastic housing that held the old speaker, and it did need a few mm of material sanded away to get the speaker to sit flush. Fairly simple with a sand paper dremmel attachment.

A few tips:

1) Use the bass blockers with the roll off I suggested, there is a difference as I tried it without. Much clearer, especially volumes 18+.

2) As I encountered the speaker leads need to be pushed to become more horizontal otherwise they will short out against the back of the door.

3) I cut off the wiring right near the speaker leads on the old connector with the new speaker so that I could disconnect it with the factory type connection. Note polarity on the new and old speaker, it will be marked.

 

[DrZed]

Great info much appreciated I will definitely do this mod first before dumping & into amp and speakers / sub!

... disconnect the tweeters in the A-pillar at the same time.
Also consider the EQ forscan setting others have talked about (does it make sense to do it now without a sub?)

Let us know what you think?

 

[DrZed]

I'm not sure I clearly understand point three( brain fade) ...can you post a pic or clarify please?

You could cut both connectors off and then soldier the new speaker directly to the wires in the door, but I wanted to have a connector there incase I had to remove the new speaker. I also wanted to keep the factory style connector. So....

You're basically going to reuse the factory connector on the old speaker you are replacing. When you disconnect the old speaker and hold it you'll see where the connector has wires coming from it and leading around to where it is soldered into the old speaker. I cut off the wiring right by the speaker soldier joint and then used that as a pigtail for the new speaker.

Just before you cut note which colour wire is + and which is -, it is labelled on the old speaker.

I should have taken some pictures of this... sorry mate.

 

[DrZed]

Curious why you chose the factory plastic housing that needed a few mm shaved? Nothing in the box? Thanks!

If I remember correctly the mounting tabs might have been different. For sure I wanted to keep the factory connector which is attached to the plastic bracket anyway.

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