Fi engine longivity

[GeorgeC]

how long will an engine with fi last compared to a na engine. I want to go fi but not if I'm only going to have the engine blow at 75000 miles. Has anyone put 150000 miles on a fi engine. If I'm not going to track are there any superchargers that are easier on the engine. I'm only looking for 650 rwhp. Thanks for any feedback.

Sponsored

 

[engineermike]

Sorry, if you want to put 150k miles on a supercharged engine then your best bet is gt500/hellcat/zL1.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I don’t see why you couldn’t get 100k miles out of a boosted coyote. I got 100k plus out of a 2.4 SRT-4 motor. It had a big turbo for most of that 100k. Just gotta keep up on the maintenance. Frequent oil changes and tune ups will help.

 

[Veteran]

I think a turbo will be friendlier than a supercharger. More hp at lower boost. No crank snout issues.

 

[Jackson1320]

I know plenty of people with a boosted 100k coyote gen1

 

[ice445]

This question is interesting but also doesn't compute with me. Power and reliability intersect pretty much where the OEM leaves the number at, after that you're just playing a lottery. Obviously some engine designs are capable of more and for longer, but quantifying that is impossible since engine assembly variance is a thing. There's also the variability of how you're adding the power, some methods are better long term versus others.

The simple answer is that if you NEED your engine to last to 150K, you probably should save your money.

 

[Jackson1320]

Well even if your engine plays pop goes the Wiesel. A new gen3 is only $1800 and it will fit in all 3 generations of coyote cars

 

[GeorgeC]

Thanks for all the responses guys I really appreciate it.

 

[GeorgeC]

This question is interesting but also doesn't compute with me. Power and reliability intersect pretty much where the OEM leaves the number at, after that you're just playing a lottery. Obviously some engine designs are capable of more and for longer, but quantifying that is impossible since engine assembly variance is a thing. There's also the variability of how you're adding the power, some methods are better long term versus others.

The simple answer is that if you NEED your engine to last to 150K, you probably should save your money.

Thanks for all the responses guys I really appreciate it.

I'm thinking of going procharger as it might be easier on the engine and because the engine acts normal when your not pushing it only goes into boost when you get on it. I've done a lot of suspension work because I want to try HPDE and I think the procharger power is more linear. Thanks again for all the responses. Does anybody think I should stay na since I want to do HPDE.

 

[GeorgeC]

Well even if your engine plays pop goes the Wiesel. A new gen3 is only $1800 and it will fit in all 3 generations of coyote cars

You can buy an engine for 1800 I didn't know that.

 

[CJJon]

You can buy an engine for 1800 I didn't know that.

WUT? A crate Gen 3 Coyote = $9000. I will take all that they can sell at 1800. Unless I am missing something.

 

[GeorgeC]

WUT? A crate Gen 3 Coyote = $9000. I will take all that they can sell at 1800. Unless I am missing something.

Thats what I thought

 

[engineermike]

Short block.

 

[the2ndr]

Short block.

$1800 for just a block or assembled?

To add to the original question, I'm new here and had 2 prior LS motors N/A street driven. My opinion is no matter what brand if your planning on doing HPDE's, N/A would be better to manage. I really believe the boosted oem cars are good for the street for a good pull or 2, but once your driving 15-30 minutes at a time hard on a track then N/A would be more reliable regardless of the brand.

 

[GeorgeC]

$1800 for just a block or assembled?

To add to the original question, I'm new here and had 2 prior LS motors N/A street driven. My opinion is no matter what brand if your planning on doing HPDE's, N/A would be better to manage. I really believe the boosted oem cars are good for the street for a good pull or 2, but once your driving 15-30 minutes at a time hard on a track then N/A would be more reliable regardless of the brand.

Thanks Mike.

Sponsored