Factory Tire Inflation

[kilobravo]

I have 150 miles on mine so far and this morning, while putzing around with the 'tronics, I saw the TPMS info. Pressures were off by quite a bit on the high side so be sure and check yours upon delivery.

Having upwards of 45psi in those Cup 2's may have had something to do with the rough ride the wife and I have experienced. We'll see...

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[Dunk812]

I have 150 miles on mine so far and this morning, while putzing around with the 'tronics, I saw the TPMS info. Pressures were off by quite a bit on the high side so be sure and check yours upon delivery.

Having upwards of 45psi in those Cup 2's may have had something to do with the rough ride the wife and I have experienced. We'll see...

I brought mine down to 32 on all four corners it seems fine so far

 

[kilobravo]

Perzactly what I just did, Jeff, 32 all around. Like minds think alike. <grinning> Now I'll be curious to see if the ride improved at all.

 

[Snoopy49]

Have you guys thought about retorquing the lug nuts?

Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque at 500 mi (800 km) after any wheel disturbance (tire rotation, changing a flat tire or wheel removal).
I would think wheel installation would fall under these guide lines.

150 ± 15 (200 ± 20) lb-ft (Nm)*

 

[kilobravo]

You must have been reading my mind, Earl. I have the QJ assembled and it works so the next project is the front rock guards.

Since I will have to remove the front wheels to install them, I figure I'll remove all four and clean them thoroughly inside and out.

Then, the plan was to retorque. If the factory got the air pressure that far off, I wonder if their automatic, all five at once, lug wrench thingamabob does a better job? With that monster rotor up front, torquing them to spec will be imperative to maintain even wear.

So Earl, the ranges you specified are for front/rear respectively?

 

[Jmeo]

I haven't looked at this manual, but all previous S550's use 150 ft/lb. This is what I torqued mine to.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

You may know this (though before what I'm to post, I honestly didn't ...), but apparently for storage/transport/etc., they jack up the pressure at the factory to prevent flat spots (probably not needed for these sort of "immediate deliveries", but typical SOP).

When we got our DD/RT, I knew it had a tighter/lower suspension setup, but it was bit over communicative with the road, turns out the tires were at like mid-high 40s PSI ! That's supposed to be part of the delivery prep (i.e., dropping the tires down to regular use spec, but I guess they missed it on ours).

 

[Snoopy49]

You must have been reading my mind, Earl. I have the QJ assembled and it works so the next project is the front rock guards.

Since I will have to remove the front wheels to install them, I figure I'll remove all four and clean them thoroughly inside and out.

Then, the plan was to retorque. If the factory got the air pressure that far off, I wonder if their automatic, all five at once, lug wrench thingamabob does a better job? With that monster rotor up front, torquing them to spec will be imperative to maintain even wear.

So Earl, the ranges you specified are for front/rear respectively?

That was from the 2020 GT500 owners manual supplement. All four wheels are torqued to that spec.

 

[Bangarang]

The Ford Pass app also shows what your tire pressures are at any time. If you haven’t added your car, it’s pretty handy. Just download and scan your VIN on your door

 

[Jmeo]

Yes, the air pressure is high from the factory. Basically they are high from setting the bead when mounting to the wheel. Some will have more than others. Your dealer would release air pressure prior to delivery, unless you requested nobody to touch your car, like I did.

Coincidentally the higher pressure is better for colder temperatures to prevent flat spots and limit cracking. With less mushrooming, they will resist flat spots and cracking better. I left mine at the 39psi they were set to for when I take it out in the colder temps. I run them at 32 psi otherwise

 

[Epiphany]

KB, what are you seeing for oil pressure on the factory gauge both cold and when warmed up?

 

[kilobravo]

but all previous S550's use 150 ft/lb.

That's what I remember from my original car, Jaime..thanks. When are yn's coming back to cold country? :-)

 

[kilobravo]

Tob: I've only paid casual attention to the gauge but it's clearly very RPM-dependent. Not certain about cold start oil pressure, will have to check but once the motor comes up to temp, I don't think I've seen it above 120 but don't quote me on that. I'll check tomorrow and give ya the straight skinny.

Edit: Through a former truck-driving friend, I learned about a minimal cost, certified scale on the North side of town. Weather-permitting, I plan to put her on the scales tomorrow or at least in the next few days. That should make Thomas happy. :-)

 

[kilobravo]

Jaime: Just checked the 500 Supplement and you are quite correct... 150 +/- 15 lb-ft.

Do you (or anyone else,) think I need to do anything different with these CF wheels? I know to be gentle on the finish but otherwise, do you think they can be treated like metal wheels when it comes to things like torquing the lug nuts?

Got the QJ assembled and tested standalone..tomorrow, up she goes. :-) Then it's off to Jaime's build thread so I can get the skinny on those RokBlokz flaps and the "Ohlson Mod." <smile>

 

[Epiphany]

The CF wheels from CR use a 6061-T6 insert(s) at each lug. They can be torqued just as any other wheel is properly torqued, whether aluminum or steel.

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