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tj@steeda

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Is anyone running the Steeda stop the hop kit? I’m trying to do all I can to improve traction before coughing up the money for some sticky tires. I could probably hide suspension parts from the wife but she definitely will notice tires :cwl:
This is the kit we run on all of our Steeda Performance Vehicles - you won't be disappointed!

Best Regards,

TJ
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Hockeygod

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Good to go sir as far as I can see!! 💪
I feel like I am forgetting a vacuume cap location. I have the pcv connection from the passenger side capped off on the intake but the catch can came with a second cap. I'm unsure what the extra cap is for? Are the upr hoses for this kit bi directional? Also does the passenger side only require the hi flow pcv?
 

Proshop

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I feel like I am forgetting a vacuume cap location. I have the pcv connection from the passenger side capped off on the intake but the catch can came with a second cap. I'm unsure what the extra cap is for? Are the upr hoses for this kit bi directional? Also does the passenger side only require the hi flow pcv?
The second cap would actually go on the intake pipe if you had a factory or aftermarket intake, since you have an ESS it is not required. Only thing I forgot to mention previously is you need to gut the PCV themselves to use that can correctly.
 

Wolfys11

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I capped the PCV, used passenger vacuum port for the brake booster and evap and the old evap port went to the block.
IMG_1839.jpeg
Installing my vacuum block today, im a bit confused of what you ran where, what did you do to the evap purge valve and other stuff?
image.jpg

i understand the brake booster gets a new hose and goes to the left throttle body port, cap the manifold off. Can i maybe leave the right port as is, and use the mani port and the left throttle body port for vacuum source and brake booster? Andnot touch the right port?
 

Proshop

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Installing my vacuum block today, im a bit confused of what you ran where, what did you do to the evap purge valve and other stuff?
image.jpg

i understand the brake booster gets a new hose and goes to the left throttle body port, cap the manifold off. Can i maybe leave the right port as is, and use the mani port and the left throttle body port for vacuum source and brake booster? Andnot touch the right port?
Yes my vacuum block was run from where the evap use to plug in. So long story short I had a Roush before the ESS so there were a ton of changes made in order to install it including vacuum lines so mine is not normal . My best advice to you is find a 5/8 quick release to go on where the PCV use to attach to the IM and use that for your vac line reference for the block. You will have to find away to down size the hose though to the block.
 

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Wolfys11

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Yes my vacuum block was run from where the evap use to plug in. So long story short I had a Roush before the ESS so there were a ton of changes made in order to install it including vacuum lines so mine is not normal . My best advice to you is find a 5/8 quick release to go on where the PCV use to attach to the IM and use that for your vac line reference for the block. You will have to find away to down size the hose though to the block.
I see, i got the routing though. When i finish il post to double check with you guys!
however my problem now is, how do you run the screw for mounting the fore block? Theres no access for the nut from below?
 

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image.jpg

I replaced the brake booster line, but kept the one way check valve and just made it shorter. The pcv line i just ran a hose tonthe block. Honestly super simple! Much cleaner look
 

Wolfys11

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Alot of yall probably wont like it, but i decided to mount it here on the frame, that way the screws are accessable, and kinda leaves space for future fuel regulator
 

jmagnus87

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Alot of yall probably wont like it, but i decided to mount it here on the frame, that way the screws are accessable, and kinda leaves space for future fuel regulator
You can mount it however you like wherever you like. You could even mount it down on the frame next to the horns if you wanted. As long as all your hoses reach that's all that matters.
definitely make sure you have good feed to your vacuum block like Proshop said. If done correctly, you should feel even more responsiveness to your throttle and whatnot.
Oh and if you're a psycho like me, be sure to pressure test everything to make sure it holds both boost and vacuum to the maximum amounts on both that you plan to run. If it doesn't, you have a slight leak
 

Wolfys11

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Do yall keep the check valve in the brake booster line? My brake booster aint working lmao i think i may have flipped it backwards, but i also think @Proshop doesnt even have one unless i dont see it?
 

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Proshop

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Do yall keep the check valve in the brake booster line? My brake booster aint working lmao i think i may have flipped it backwards, but i also think @Proshop doesnt even have one unless i dont see it?
Yes you have too!
 

WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot_Ricky

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Hey all, a little update. Been noticing a little issue with my car. When moderate-heavy acceleration my transmission sometimes doesn’t want to up shift. It will just keep pulling until it hits the rev limiter, other times it shifts very solid. I’ve reached out to Lund and am currently going to try to get them some logs. Just praying it’s not the transmission slipping lol
 

Wolfys11

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Yes you have too!
image.jpg

my brake booster still doesnt work, without the check valve or with either orientation.
Am i not able to just plug it into the manifold? Do i have to just plug the brake booster into the vacuum block maybe with the one way check valve? Im very confused!
 

Proshop

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This is where my check valve was and it went to the aspirator that had the brake booster and evap connected to it.
IMG_1993.jpeg
 

Wolfys11

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This is where my check valve was and it went to the aspirator that had the brake booster and evap connected to it.
IMG_1993.jpeg
Ah okay okay,
So then what does the nipple on the intake manifold do?

do you see any problems with simply running the brake booster hose into the vacuum block? I temp did it like that and seems all good
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