Engine vibration between 1k-2.5k RPM

[Asnakeinmygt]

Trying too figure out an issue on my 2015 GT. It's a base model 6 speed with 130k miles. Only bolt ons being a BBK Blackout CAI, Steeda TB spacer, poly motor mounts, and the 87 octane tune from STC (basic tune pre loaded). I started noticing a lot of vibration in the engine starting around 1k rpm and seemingly tapering off around 2500 rpm. Spark plugs are new and old ones were not fouled or cooked. Thought it may have been clutch related so I had a new clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder installed (along with everything else that lives in there). Vibration occurs whether hot or cold and if tuned or stock programing. No codes and no power loss. Thinking maybe coils or injectors with this many miles?

Sponsored

 

[MiamiGT350]

How do the engine mounts look?

 

[Asnakeinmygt]

How do the engine mounts look?
Fine. They were new from BMR and installed after vibration.

 

[Cobra Jet]

If the engine has a definite vibe - you should really stop driving it and determine the source.

Check the front FEAD system pulleys such as belt tensioners etc.

Also check the harmonic balancer (on the Coyote it’s referred to as the “crank pulley”) - if the balancer is loose or the elastomer center is failing that will def cause vibration and it could be detrimental to the engine if let go… (ie: catastrophic failure).

Check this thread that discusses from this point forward how to determine if the balancer is failing. The factory balancer will not last forever it’s not a lifetime pert due to the fact it has rubber elastomer securing the inner and outer steels. Also to note, there are (2) different balancers used on the Coyotes depending on model year which is also outlined in this thread.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/whipple-broken-cranks.185642/page-3#post-3744055

Put car in neutral (MT82) w/ebrake on or in Park (6R80/10R80). Pop hood then start car. Look in engine bay while the car idles and look for any signs of ANY pulleys wobbling. There should not be any wobble at all.

The stock Coyote crank sprocket has been known to loose teeth - and in extreme instances it has sheared off the crank snout causing catastrophic engine failure.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stock-coyote-cracked-crank-snout.191676/

The A/C compressor is also known to blow apart the clutch head assembly which can cause other damages at speed… So check that out too. That can be replaced as a unit instead of having to replace the entire compressor itself. See this thread for additional A/C clutch head failure and DIY repair:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tch-and-coil-replacement.141934/#post-2908198

 

[Asnakeinmygt]

Any idea the correct part number for the pulley. Mine has SPNO 29364 on the casting. That number pulls up F150 pulleys.

 

[Asnakeinmygt]

So for anyone who took a look or responded:

1: It would seem the tech from the dealership handling the clutch/flywheel install did not perform a KAM reset or a Crank relearn on my car and just called it good. Used my tuner to do both of them today with seemingly miraculous results. Put 40 miles on it during the drive home and noticeable vibration is nearly gone.

2: I did contact Ford about the correct balancer since mine is discontinued. NR3Z-6312-A is what they call out, which is the current Gen 3 model. Ordered one for peace of mind.

Sponsored