Engine Motor Mounts Recommendations?

[Rocketboy]

Only my theory.
When you lower the engine a bind would then be put on the transmission mount and more angle on the output of the transmission shaft. Since, the transmission has a separate mount to support it. It would make the most sense to lower them both together to prevent the drive line from binding. Or to at least to keep it minimal.

Has anyone measured the difference before and after the installation of the mounts?
Lowering the transmission could also help out with the NVH problems as the drive line would be more inline.

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[zackmd1]

Only my theory.
When you lower the engine a bind would then be put on the transmission mount and more angle on the output of the transmission shaft. Since, the transmission has a separate mount to support it. It would make the most sense to lower them both together to prevent the drive line from binding. Or to at least to keep it minimal.

Has anyone measured the difference before and after the installation of the mounts?
Lowering the transmission could also help out with the NVH problems as the drive line would be more inline.

Driveline angle as measured from the top of the engine is about 3.3 degrees stock. With the maximum drop on BMR mounts without any modifications to the transmission mount the angle dropped to 2.3 degrees.

 

[Rocketboy]

Hi Zack, You have been putting allot of information together for us. I really appreciate all the helpful info.
So it looks like 1 degree change. I remember lowing a truck with lowering blocks. They had a angle cut on 1 side so the drive line angle would decrease at the differential. I was basically using the same theory here. Will pm you for the engine mounts if still available.
Thanks again

 

[zackmd1]

Hi Zack, You have been putting allot of information together for us. I really appreciate all the helpful info.
So it looks like 1 degree change. I remember lowing a truck with lowering blocks. They had a angle cut on 1 side so the drive line angle would decrease at the differential. I was basically using the same theory here. Will pm you for the engine mounts if still available.
Thanks again

Not a problem! Unfortunately they are no longer available though.

The 1 degree change from my experience had no effect on drivablity or caused and noticeable issues over the time I used them.

 

[Jared_J]

Just installed GMS engine motor mounts today, DAMN that's a whole lot of NVH!!!
Stupid thing about that mount is, it DOES NOT lower the engine as it claims (0.52 inch)! I only see a 2mm drop judge from the distance from intake manifold to strut tower brace. I still need spacers for clearance.
Now I can only hope the NVH reduces after a break-in period, if there is one. Right now it's a pain at speed below 10mph.
Conclusion is buy BMR ones. At least you get the engine drop as it claims.

 

[zackmd1]

Just installed GMS engine motor mounts today, DAMN that's a whole lot of NVH!!!
Stupid thing about that mount is, it DOES NOT lower the engine as it claims (0.52 inch)! I only see a 2mm drop judge from the distance from intake manifold to strut tower brace. I still need spacers for clearance.
Now I can only hope the NVH reduces after a break-in period, if there is one. Right now it's a pain at speed below 10mph.
Conclusion is buy BMR ones. At least you get the engine drop as it claims.

NVH likely will not decrease... I found that out the hard way with the BMR mounts. Best thing I did was make a set of custom bushings with a much softer polyurethane.

 

[Jared_J]

NVH likely will not decrease... I found that out the hard way with the BMR mounts. Best thing I did was make a set of custom bushings with a much softer polyurethane.

Bummer... This is too harsh for me.... Where do you get the softer polys that fit the mount? I may go that route as well.

 

[zackmd1]

Bummer... This is too harsh for me.... Where do you get the softer polys that fit the mount? I may go that route as well.

I ordered some raw material from McMaster Carr and made my own. I went with 40 durometer polyurethane.

 

[Jared_J]

I ordered some raw material from McMaster Carr and made my own. I went with 40 durometer polyurethane.

That's some serious craftsmanship... Thanks for the info!

 

[zackmd1]

Measure the diameter of the stock bushings and then go for something like this....

https://www.mcmaster.com/87235k74

 

[Jared_J]

Measure the diameter of the stock bushings and then go for something like this....

https://www.mcmaster.com/87235k74

Awesome! That's sure helpful!

 

[zackmd1]

Awesome! That's sure helpful!

So going back through my project thread, looks like I used 60A instead of 40A. 40A might end up being to soft to work with. 60A cut out alot of the NVH I experienced but it was not perfect. Low frequency NVH was still present. In gear at idle I could actually see the headlight beam vibrating.

If you have the ability and time, I say experiment with the 40A.

 

[Jared_J]

Sounds good. I did this in preparation for my pro-charger, as I saw it strongly recommended by a turbo builder.
My procharger kit has been delivered to my Ohio home and waiting for me to carry it to CA (because of the stupid CARB number thing only in CA).

 

[Fuse]

If you guys make some extra sets of said bushings, I'd buy it off you guys.

 

[Jared_J]

If you guys make some extra sets of said bushings, I'd buy it off you guys.

If I'm going to buy another set of mounts I will start with the steeda ones:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-adjustable-heavy-duty-s550-mustang-engine-mounts-2015-gt-555-4039.html
Design wise this should truly lower the engine by at least 0.5 inch. The height of GMS ones is about same with steeda ones when with all three spacers on it.
It features two sets of polys, but couldn't find out the stiffness. I will call to ask.It also allows swapping to customized poly bushings.
Steeda says for 5.0 application, but I believe it will also fit V6 since the BMR and GMS ones are universal.

Also update on my current ones: It's more livable today when driving to work. I figured the super harsh initial period may because I disconnected the battery to take off the strut tower brace. The engine needs to relearn to smooth itself. But still, it makes me feel like I'm driving an AMT gearbox. It's fantastic when beyond 3000rpm, but you definitely feel the engine is begging you to speed up when below 2000RPM.

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