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Drag Strip Tips?

CBass2288

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Just as a starting disclaimer: This is 100% for fun for me, I'm not serious about it and my car isn't set up for it in the slightest. With that being said, I still do wanna try my best. (1/8th mile btw)

2017 GT PP. I'm on summer street tires, only suspension mod is lowering springs, and it's manual. I've been once before (stock) and now I'm FBO E85. The biggest problem I had before was the launch as it was radial prep and I was spinning and wheel hopping through first and into 2nd. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting off the line in my situation? Last time I clutch dumped from 2k RPM and still spun, the only other things I can think of is slipping the clutch out off the line or launching in 2nd. Is it even worth lowering the tire pressure given my tires? I did last time but it didn't seem to help. Any tips would be much appreciated.
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Cory S

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With being lowered, manual, and low profile performance summer tires, the only thing you can do is perfect the perfect clutch slip. 26-28psi in the tires, and give them a quick 3-4 second heat cycle.
 

Glenn 70

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Just as a starting disclaimer: This is 100% for fun for me, I'm not serious about it and my car isn't set up for it in the slightest. With that being said, I still do wanna try my best. (1/8th mile btw)

2017 GT PP. I'm on summer street tires, only suspension mod is lowering springs, and it's manual. I've been once before (stock) and now I'm FBO E85. The biggest problem I had before was the launch as it was radial prep and I was spinning and wheel hopping through first and into 2nd. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting off the line in my situation? Last time I clutch dumped from 2k RPM and still spun, the only other things I can think of is slipping the clutch out off the line or launching in 2nd. Is it even worth lowering the tire pressure given my tires? I did last time but it didn't seem to help. Any tips would be much appreciated.
You need to fix up the rear end to stop the axle hop otherwise your going to break things like the axles / half shafts . Aftermarket parts are easy found . 2nd after you do that your better off with other tires like Mickey Thompson et street SS . Traction control off and all the way off . Don’t go back till you have the anti axle hop sorted .
 

Coyote Chase

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I ran my Ecoboost Mustang totally stock on street tires for the 1st 2 races of the NMRA season last year. I dropped the air pressure in the rear tires to 24 psi and increased the front tires to 40 psi.
*remember to drive around the water box* (your fellow racers and the race track staff will appreciate it!).
 

K4fxd

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ctandc72

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I hear this all the time and never see anyone do it.
Whenever I was at the two local strips with a car that had street radials (I run bias plys on mine) I would do this. It's usually only a big deal when the session is a test and tune with a lot of pure race cars running to dial in times / setups.

At the two strips I frequented, the guy at the staging lanes was usually smart enough to put water down or not based on what car was staging next.
 

Torched10

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I used to race when I was younger.had trouble with rt times.old timer told me when last yellow comes on say cheese to yourself then pip clutch,worked for me I'd be around .6sec and 0,1sec is a full car length on 1/4 mile
 
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Coyote Chase

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I hear this all the time and never see anyone do it.
With street tires, especially the wide front tires that come on our Mustangs, you will drag water up to the start line, which can cause you to spine your tires and then the track staff members have to clean up your mess before the next guy runs, which slows down everything and could be the difference between you and your follow racers getting 2 or 3 runs each, instead of 3 to 5 runs!!
 

Torched10

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With street tires, especially the wide front tires that come on our Mustangs, you will drag water up to the start line, which can cause you to spine your tires and then the track staff members have to clean up your mess before the next guy runs, which slows down everything and could be the difference between you and your follow racers getting 2 or 3 runs each, instead of 3 to 5 runs!!
I never used the water box with my 65 gto.in those days a 13.5 time was terrific for stoch car
 

Cory S

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I used to race when I was younger.had trouble with rt times.old timer told me when last yellow comes on say cheese to yourself then pip clutch,worked for me I'd be around .6sec and 0,1sec is a full car length on 1/4 mile
Reaction time has zero effect on ET’s. The timer doesn’t start until your front tires leaves the 2nd beam, not when the tree goes green.
 

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Torched10

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Reaction time has zero effect on ET’s. The timer doesn’t start until your front tires leaves the 2nd beam, not when the tree goes green.
Rt is how long your in the box before you clear the beams.so if you spin tires fit a second and the other guy has 0.5rt,he's got a 1/2 second head start.its possible and ive seen it happen a car with a lower et will lose a race because they had a high rt.hetes an article

http://justdragracing.com/drag-raci...uman reaction time,time would be 0.28 seconds.
 

Cory S

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Rt is how long your in the box before you clear the beams.so if you spin tires fit a second and the other guy has 0.5rt,he's got a 1/2 second head start.its possible and ive seen it happen a car with a lower et will lose a race because they had a high rt.hetes an article

http://justdragracing.com/drag-raci...uman reaction time,time would be 0.28 seconds.
Correct. It only matters for heads up or bracket racing. It still has ZERO affect on ET.... If someone is just testing and not racing an opponent, there’s zero reason to worry about the tree. Go when you’re ready.
 

Coyote Chase

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I never used the water box with my 65 gto.in those days a 13.5 time was terrific for stoch car
I remember those days! Even a big block Chevelle was lucky to run 14s!
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