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Does your Mustang's seat lumbar support suck?

Unbridled5.0

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blakeyoself

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I have a 2017 Base V6 that I picked up at 28K miles. The seat had the void at the bottom, but somehow I just ignored it and enjoyed the car. I was prescribed Adderall at the time, so I probably couldn't feel much of anything. Around 50K miles, and off Adderall, I started commuting an hour to and from work. I had worked remote before that. That's when the seat started wearing. I had an upholster swap the bottom foam. That helped a bit. Then he replaced the top foam, which helped more, but only for a short time. This morning, I swapped the lumbar spring myself. I don't know how he missed it, but the top support had totally snapped. The rest was very loose and worn compared to the new support. Now the seat feels much better. I use a Backjoy to fill the void - that's just a bad design. Well - a modified Backjoy. The bulge under the crotch region had to go. It was stabbing me in a bad spot before that. Now I barely notice it, and it's way better than the void. My upholster did mention that seat foam these days lasts just a few years since it's all biodegradable now. Anyway - I'm pretty happy with how if feels. I'm 42, and need the seat to actually be supportive. It's a bad design that also wears quickly. If you're sinking into the back of the seat, take it out, apart, and check the lumbar support spring. It's a $20 part.



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RedPointO

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D
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After reading multiple posts here on lumbar, I realized something. When I sit in the passenger seat it feels entirely different than the driver's seat, why? I would often feel that the lumbar in the driver' seat was "inflated" even when it was fully retracted. So I took the seat fabric off the back and disconnected the "throttle cable" in the lumbar and it fully retracted it and big difference! I've effectively removed what was poking in my back this whole time. This means the lumbar is not operational now. Getting into the back of the seat is a breeze, I worked from the back seat upside down and removed two electrical connectors and then the elastic bands holding the back fabric. With that away a trim pry tool will get two plastic push pins out then the back flap opens right up. Lifting up the flap and looking for the plastic pin that is seated in the metal hoop (see picture). With needle nose pliers, I squeezed the tabs together and pushed it out of the hoop. Once you release this, it releases the tension and you can see the sides of the lumbar retract. I connected the motor again (will it pop a code if disconnected?) and will disconnect the lumbar switch itself. Check it out.

HUGE difference!

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Hey buddy, I’ve been having the same issue with my seats as they’ve been killing my back to the point where I’m considering to sell the car. This has really given me some hope.

I want to make sure I know what I’m doing though and just to make it easier , I have an attached a photo from another person who has done this. We just need to get that white plastic cone piece out of the metal hook/ hoop ?

Also it seems like you’ve done this a long time ago, how’s your experience after doing this on a long term basis ?
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ripto

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Hey buddy, I’ve been having the same issue with my seats as they’ve been killing my back to the point where I’m considering to sell the car. This has really given me some hope.

I want to make sure I know what I’m doing though and just to make it easier , I have an attached a photo from another person who has done this. We just need to get that white plastic cone piece out of the metal hook/ hoop ?

Also it seems like you’ve done this a long time ago, how’s your experience after doing this on a long term basis ?
IMG_5897.jpeg
That's correct. That pic is how you want it - that L shaped piece on the right has been removed from that metal loop hook in the background. I did this a few years ago and it was the only thing that helped. I tried towels in the crease, backjoy, extra foam, raising the back of the seat with washers, etc. Unhooking this throttle cable aka lumbar support was it for me.
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