Code p0420 after kooks lTH

[Performance nut]

So do these angled adapters also allow car to "pass" the ready test?

Not sure what the ready test is but there will be no catalytic converter codes anymore.

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[Zelek]

So do these angled adapters also allow car to "pass" the ready test?

It's more for preventing the P0420 code for cat inefficiency. It tricks the O2 sensors into thinking they are getting less flow similar to how a catalytic converter is. You're pulling them out of the main stream so it would read a normal reading at that point in theory.

The readiness test has more to do with the heat cycle. The problem with long tube headers is the O2's are much further back so heating them up is an issue. That's why I was thinking you really have to push your car hard within the first few minutes after it warming up to get them to a temp it would register as acceptable to pass the test.

That's all in theory though. It could also be the tunes because you can get your O2's to go green on a stock tune with long tube headers no problem so there's that.

 

[jmeiers]

Not sure what the ready test is but there will be no catalytic converter codes anymore.

During the emissions test in Northern VA, they don't run your car on rollers with a sniffer. They hook up to the OBD port and scan it and then look for any visible smoke, etc. The converter ready test must be OK before passing the emissions test. I believe the code in this post is regarding the cats not detected in the ready state. If the adapters prevent the code from happening, does this also allow the converters to show ready?

 

[Performance nut]

During the emissions test in Northern VA, they don't run your car on rollers with a sniffer. They hook up to the OBD port and scan it and then look for any visible smoke, etc. The converter ready test must be OK before passing the emissions test. I believe the code in this post is regarding the cats not detected in the ready state. If the adapters prevent the code from happening, does this also allow the converters to show ready?

I have a scanner that would go through all the tests the computer goes through to show everything is ok (can't recall the number of tests but there were quite a few). The catalytic converters would always show ready once I put the spacers on. Before, they would always fail the catalytic converter test. Not sure if that answers your question as I'm unsure how you would check for "ready" as we don't have emissions testing where I'm at. But based on what you put, it should pass as the OBD port would show OK and there is no visible smoke (though there is a difference in smell). Though any savvy inspector would recognize the spacers for what they are.

 

[ManBearPig]

Pretty sure Lund turned off that specific code and left my O2 sensors on when I was "trying" to ready the O2's. On one of the tunes, I threw my very first P0420 and he gave me a revision with that code off. Every other tune, I could never throw that code. Some of the tunes I had previously with other setups actually had the O2's turned off. They don't do that anymore.

How do you think they eliminate the cat inefficiency code? Your rear 02’s are not being read. They are effectively “turned off”.

 

[Zelek]

How do you think they eliminate the cat inefficiency code? Your rear 02’s are not being read. They are effectively “turned off”.

If they were turned off, they would be grayed out on the Ngauge, correct? Only a few of my tunes are like that while the rest all have them red to do the test.

 

[sabtaj1]

On my ford flex unleashed used to shut the rear O2's off, however no longer an option. so after blowing the engine and installing a new one I went with the the big daddy ones on my catless downpipes. But after about a thousand miles I got the code again. So... I didn't realize they are just an elbow with a smaller hole on the end that goes into the exhaust. I assumed it had some sort of cat like baffling inside.

 

[Zelek]

On my ford flex unleashed used to shut the rear O2's off, however no longer an option. so after blowing the engine and installing a new one I went with the the big daddy ones on my catless downpipes. But after about a thousand miles I got the code again. So... I didn't realize they are just an elbow with a smaller hole on the end that goes into the exhaust. I assumed it had some sort of cat like baffling inside.

That's only on the straight mini cat ones they offer. The ones you have just pull the sensors even further out of the flow.

 

[Bluelightning]

So do these angled adapters also allow car to "pass" the ready test?

They did for me.

 

[ked]

So I ended up going with the Big daddies spacers just bought them last night, and now awaiting shipping

hopefully that will fix the problem.

 

[ked]

updates :
I bought the kit, and many many weeks later I got them fitted into the car

been driving the car for few weeks now , about 1000km later and still no code, hopefully that the end of it.

in other notes if the code came back , ill be going with the mini cat + the spacer that I have at the moment .

installing them was a bit of a problem but not a big one.

the issue was with the bolts for the transmission mount, too low that they kept kitting the spacer and was not able to screw it in.

went a bit ghetto and unbolted one screw at a time from the mount, and asked someone to pull the pipe down just to give it a couple more millimeter needed to be able to rotate the spacer in.

it's also worth mentioning that I had to re-route the driver side O2 sensor wires around the mount to be able to fit it without too much tension on it.

Before:

After

Final product

 

[Cmitchen53]

Vibrant J spacers worked for me with catted ARH long tubes.

I’m using green cats and just purchased these. What restricter insert did you use?

 

[thelostotter]

I’m using green cats and just purchased these. What restricter insert did you use?

Middle size has worked perfect since I installed them in 2018.

 

[Cmitchen53]

Middle size has worked perfect since I installed them in 2018.

Worked great! No codes all summer.

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