COBB tunes for HPDE

[SVO MkII]

Just curious, is anyone running COBB OTS tunes for HPDE? Any issues? Thoughts?

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[ihasnostang]

i ran stage 1 91 on 93 for three 20 min sessions. the tune seems to be able to adjust to high post IC temps (140F), high coolant (230)/oil temps(275). if you have an AP you can definitely record for 1 hours worth at least. Here's two charts i made from a log. Ignition corrections seemed pretty consistent, but there was 1 large negative correction due to a shift from 5th to 3rd. Boost appears to taper off as IAT went up

https://www.imagebam.com/view/GA42LE

 

[SVO MkII]

i ran stage 1 91 on 93 for three 20 min sessions. the tune seems to be able to adjust to high post IC temps (140F), high coolant (230)/oil temps(275). if you have an AP you can definitely record for 1 hours worth at least. Here's two charts i made from a log. Ignition corrections seemed pretty consistent, but there was 1 large negative correction due to a shift from 5th to 3rd. Boost appears to taper off as IAT went up

https://www.imagebam.com/view/GA42LE

Interesting. Are you able to run flat out for 20 min without coolant or oil temp issues? Do you have any cooling mods? My car, with stock tune (larger intercooler), Mishimoto rad and oil cooler, plus ducting for the rad and oil cooler, can't run flat out for more than a couple laps before the coolant temp approaches 250 and oil temp 290. I just added a large hood vent to hopefully solve this issue. But this has been my main concern with adding any kind of tune, i.e., if I can't keep the motor cool with stock power levels, how could I possibly add more power?

 

[TeeLew]

Interesting. Are you able to run flat out for 20 min without coolant or oil temp issues? Do you have any cooling mods? My car, with stock tune (larger intercooler), Mishimoto rad and oil cooler, plus ducting for the rad and oil cooler, can't run flat out for more than a couple laps before the coolant temp approaches 250 and oil temp 290. I just added a large hood vent to hopefully solve this issue. But this has been my main concern with adding any kind of tune, i.e., if I can't keep the motor cool with stock power levels, how could I possibly add more power?

You're out of your mind running the water that hot. 210F is max that you should see and real running temp is 185F. Your water temp is what is killing you. Get that under control and the oil will follow water.

The Phoenix Eco that runs in SCCA T3 has a 'Ron Davis' sticker placed prominently. That's probably the next person you should contact for a radiator.

 

[shogun32]

The Phoenix Eco that runs in SCCA T3 has a 'Ron Davis' sticker placed prominently. That's probably the next person you should contact for a radiator.

no product on the website...

 

[ihasnostang]

i haven't got a overtemp issue during any sessions, granted RA is much more demanding than the 2.5m course i've drove. No cooling mods other than driving with the heat on . hopefully those vents help get hot air created by the turbo out of the engine bay.

I'm switching over from street to race IC this spring and will lower my IAT on track, but with the cost raising oil/coolant temps.

idk. if you have cvf charge pipes put a water/meth nozzle on the cool side pipe for evaporative cooling

 

[TeeLew]

no product on the website...

Ring 'Em up...

 

[shogun32]

no product on the website...

Ring 'Em up...

I repeat myself. No product.

Right now we only offer one for road racing with the 5.0 engine

 

[SVO MkII]

You're out of your mind running the water that hot. 210F is max that you should see and real running temp is 185F. Your water temp is what is killing you. Get that under control and the oil will follow water.

The Phoenix Eco that runs in SCCA T3 has a 'Ron Davis' sticker placed prominently. That's probably the next person you should contact for a radiator.

Hmm, not sure about that. Pressurized liquid can run at higher temps. Apparently the ECU won't intervene until you are around 250. I can run all day 220-230 without any interference from the stock ECU. If the engineers thought that was dangerous, I have a feeling they would let you know.

But obviously, bringing down the temps is why I have done all of the mods to the car, including adding hood vents. If I can keep the coolant temps in the 220-230 range, that should keep the oil in the 260-270. That will work fine.

 

[TeeLew]

Nobody ever believes me.

I ran the N/A version of these engines in real big-boy racing. I know WTF I'm talking about. The bottom end is all aluminum (including the main caps). The crank is steel. At high temps, bearing clearances are huge and the crank is moving around a lot. When you're ~60 degrees over normal operating temp, that's an issue. Yes, the engine still runs, but I highly suspect that Ford did that to get you home, not to allow you to run more laps. When racing, you don't want it to get to 200. If you try to run it there, you'll be slow. If you run it hotter, you'll lose the engine. Those engines run more RPM, but ours have boost and higher cylinder pressures. Probably the only thing keeping your engine in one piece is running lower revs.

Do as you please, but these engines run better if run much cooler.

 

[SVO MkII]

Nobody ever believes me.

I ran the N/A version of these engines in real big-boy racing. I know WTF I'm talking about. The bottom end is all aluminum (including the main caps). The crank is steel. At high temps, bearing clearances are huge and the crank is moving around a lot. When you're ~60 degrees over normal operating temp, that's an issue. Yes, the engine still runs, but I highly suspect that Ford did that to get you home, not to allow you to run more laps. When racing, you don't want it to get to 200. If you try to run it there, you'll be slow. If you run it hotter, you'll lose the engine. Those engines run more RPM, but ours have boost and higher cylinder pressures. Probably the only thing keeping your engine in one piece is running lower revs.

Do as you please, but these engines run better if run much cooler.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[ihasnostang]

i think its an increase of 2-3 degrees in boiling point per psi of pressurized coolant. is temp an issue during the first session? any idea how much your oil/coolant cool off between sessions? i use forscan between sessions to run the fans at high speed while idling.

 

[SVO MkII]

i think its an increase of 2-3 degrees in boiling point per psi of pressurized coolant. is temp an issue during the first session? any idea how much your oil/coolant cool off between sessions? i use forscan between sessions to run the fans at high speed while idling.

I use Track Addict, connected via OBDII. The coolant temp falls off immediately. For example, at Road America, the coolant will get up to 225-230 down the straights, while at WOT and full boost (short shifting at 5200). As soon as you lift, it starts dropping a few degs. During the cool down, it falls back to 200, or less. The oil is slower to react. By the start of the next session, all the temps are pretty much back to normal. I'm really hoping the hood vents are the final solution. If they work as planned, then I can consider a mild tune.

 

[TeeLew]

I thought about going the other way with a tune. Make one for the track which is lower boost to be lower stress and easier to cool. If on E30, the chance of detonation/pre-ignition would be minimal and I think there is a cooling advantage to a higher alcohol content in the fuel. Some of the issue might be the stock engine tuning. The Ford engine mapping is just garbage and can't be doing us any favors.

 

[shogun32]

I bought TWO Harrop oil coolers and will retrofit the 2nd into my Eco. I have AN-8 and -10 Aeroquip Starlight hoses and fittings...

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