clutch & longtubes

[robmustang201528]

Do you have to remove the long tubes in order to take the transmission out to replace the clutch?

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[IvanCRF]

Post #125

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=580657#post580657

The clutch is pretty straight forward. I was bitching and moaning about the shifter but not because its actually complicated, but because it wasnt as simple as I am used to and wanted it to be after the headers had just kicked my ass... and of course the special tool needed to press the roll pin. If you ordered a shifter it will have to come with that tool anyway. If that roll pin didnt set me back, it wouldnt have been much harder than any other RWD car.

Advice 1: Buy a driveshaft. I didnt care to originally, but after checking out & pulling the stock one out I would have preferred to set it down into the dumpster rather than a workbench for re-use.

Advice 2: Get a service manual if you like torque specs. Nobody helps. Like McLeod install says to torque the pressure plate adapter ring "to factory specification"... ya, thanks that is really helpful at 4am, let me just call the f*ckin factory. Couldnt find driveshaft torque specs either... install videos say the same shit "torque to factory specification"... its like OK youre the one that takes the time to edit a damn video or make an installation manual and you cant just put the damn torque spec in here to save 1000 people the time? At least the ARP flywheel bolts came with a torque spec, and those were the most important part of the install to torque to spec IMHO.

Advice 3: Get some blue loctite. I had to use tiny amounts of red in its place because I didnt have blue. That might bite me in the ass later but should be OK because I was real conservative.

NOTE: At least with KOOKS headers, the headers dont have to come out, they arent in the way at all with pulling the trans. I assume they did this strategically and id like to shake whoevers hand for that.

Also, with the trans out, the header job would be a ton easier. BUT you would have to have a real clever way for suspending the engine... because the mounts come out to do the headers, and without the trans being in either, the engine would be totally floating on your wiring and fuel lines etc, gotta make sure you can control it somehow. Maybe just do one motor mount / side at a time.

 

[robmustang201528]

Thanks

 

[Schu]

Can the oem exhaust studs be replaced with nice arp units?

 

[phunk]

Kooks come with ARP bolts to replace the factory studs with.

 

[phunk]

BTW heed the warning from the kooks installation instructions that instruct you to NOT use the oil pan to support the weight of the engine. I wondered if it was just something they put in ALL their instructions, so I tested it. Oil pan will just give up and collapse before that engine budges upward a millimeter.

To support the engine with the motor mounts out, I ended up with 2x3s cut to about 6-8" long, holding up the engine by the bellhousing ears on the block, lifted by a trans jack. It was a little scary.

 

[dubster99]

Even with a wood block between the jack and oil pan?

 

[phunk]

thats not going to make a difference, oil pan wont get any stronger

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