phunk's Whipple GT

SlimReaper · May 10, 2015

What clutch did you get?

dannycoconuts · May 11, 2015

Cannot wait to hear it

phunk · May 11, 2015

SlimReaper said:
What clutch did you get?

McLeod RXT!

Jmeo · May 11, 2015

So, how bad was it to do the clutch? Debating doing mine myself.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

phunk · May 11, 2015

The clutch is pretty straight forward. I was bitching and moaning about the shifter but not because its actually complicated, but because it wasnt as simple as I am used to and wanted it to be after the headers had just kicked my ass... and of course the special tool needed to press the roll pin. If you ordered a shifter it will have to come with that tool anyway. If that roll pin didnt set me back, it wouldnt have been much harder than any other RWD car.

Advice 1: Buy a driveshaft. I didnt care to originally, but after checking out & pulling the stock one out I would have preferred to set it down into the dumpster rather than a workbench for re-use.

Advice 2: Get a service manual if you like torque specs. Nobody helps. Like McLeod install says to torque the pressure plate adapter ring "to factory specification"... ya, thanks that is really helpful at 4am, let me just call the f*ckin factory. Couldnt find driveshaft torque specs either... install videos say the same shit "torque to factory specification"... its like OK youre the one that takes the time to edit a damn video or make an installation manual and you cant just put the damn torque spec in here to save 1000 people the time? At least the ARP flywheel bolts came with a torque spec, and those were the most important part of the install to torque to spec IMHO.

Advice 3: Get some blue loctite. I had to use tiny amounts of red in its place because I didnt have blue. That might bite me in the ass later but should be OK because I was real conservative.

NOTE: At least with KOOKS headers, the headers dont have to come out, they arent in the way at all with pulling the trans. I assume they did this strategically and id like to shake whoevers hand for that.

Also, with the trans out, the header job would be a ton easier. BUT you would have to have a real clever way for suspending the engine... because the mounts come out to do the headers, and without the trans being in either, the engine would be totally floating on your wiring and fuel lines etc, gotta make sure you can control it somehow. Maybe just do one motor mount / side at a time.

Jmeo · May 11, 2015

phunk said:
The clutch is pretty straight forward. I was bitching and moaning about the shifter but not because its actually complicated, but because it wasnt as simple as I am used to and wanted it to be after the headers had just kicked my ass... and of course the special tool needed to press the roll pin. If you ordered a shifter it will have to come with that tool anyway. If that roll pin didnt set me back, it wouldnt have been much harder than any other RWD car.

Advice 1: Buy a driveshaft. I didnt care to originally, but after checking out & pulling the stock one out I would have preferred to set it down into the dumpster rather than a workbench for re-use.

Advice 2: Get a service manual if you like torque specs. Nobody helps. Like McLeod install says to torque the pressure plate adapter ring "to factory specification"... ya, thanks that is really helpful at 4am, let me just call the f*ckin factory. Couldnt find driveshaft torque specs either... install videos say the same shit "torque to factory specification"... its like OK youre the one that takes the time to edit a damn video or make an installation manual and you cant just put the damn torque spec in here to save 1000 people the time? At least the ARP flywheel bolts came with a torque spec, and those were the most important part of the install to torque to spec IMHO.

Advice 3: Get some blue loctite. I had to use tiny amounts of red in its place because I didnt have blue. That might bite me in the ass later but should be OK because I was real conservative.

NOTE: At least with KOOKS headers, the headers dont have to come out, they arent in the way at all with pulling the trans. I assume they did this strategically and id like to shake whoevers hand for that.

Also, with the trans out, the header job would be a ton easier. BUT you would have to have a real clever way for suspending the engine... because the mounts come out to do the headers, and without the trans being in either, the engine would be totally floating on your wiring and fuel lines etc, gotta make sure you can control it somehow. Maybe just do one motor mount / side at a time.

Great advice, thank you [emoji3]

Got my shaftmasters driveshaft ordered. Was going to install it and shifter all at once but now I'm debating if I just wanna bite the bullet and also get the LT's, catted H, Clutch/flywheel and high performance clutch hose and do it as one massive job.

Hmmmmm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

caustin69 · May 11, 2015

Jmeo said:
Great advice, thank you [emoji3]

Got my shaftmasters driveshaft ordered. Was going to install it and shifter all at once but now I'm debating if I just wanna bite the bullet and also get the LT's, catted H, Clutch/flywheel and high performance clutch hose and do it as one massive job.

Hmmmmm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

phunk · May 11, 2015

I dont know if I would bother with changing out the clutch hose, the stock setup looked and seems fine to me. Bleeds easily too, you cant beat the self bleeder... just pump the pedal for about 5 min and presto, everything is perfect.

I would say yes, to do the clutch with the driveshaft and shifter, since both ahve to removed to do the clutch, and you need a clutch anyway, it makes all the sense.

The headers at the same time... if you want to have a REALLY bad weekend like I did, sure LOL. Its sort of a lot to do at the same time, but its nice to just get it out of the way.

phunk · May 11, 2015

Also dont forget that you will lose some brake fluid when you disconnect the clutch slave. It shares a reservoir with the brakes. The car uses DOT4 if you havent swapped to aftermarket fluid. I didnt plug my clutch line after disconnecting, so by the time it was done dripping I had lost a significant amount of fluid and had to top off before I bled the clutch.

phunk · May 11, 2015

Dyno is set for tomorrow at 4 or 5. Graphs will be posted! I will run both standard pulley and my +1psi pulley.

Jmeo · May 11, 2015

The only reason I considered the clutch cable/hose is because I thought I heard it was a must with long tubes so the stock one doesn't get melted?? Having done it all what do you think about that?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

phunk · May 11, 2015

Hmm I dont know if I see that as a problem. I am usually pretty liberal with using heat wraps and etc but I didnt see a ton of need and didnt use any anywhere. There were spots that I honestly looked at it and said to myself that I WOULD normally wrap it there, but that since it wasnt wrapped stock, and I am not any closer than stock was, I just left it.

If anything I would think the clutch line is better off now, not having a CAT near by... the new cats are much further back. I actually have been thinking of going back under and wrapping the cats, especially since the driver side is rather close to the fuel line. Not worried about a fire, just because cooler fuel is better. I only didnt do it on the spot because I was going to google if there is any problem with heat wrapping a cat. This is my first build where I actually have cats, so I never had to think about it.

phunk · May 11, 2015

You could grab some firesleeve to put over the clutch hose if you were worried about it though! Its dark, but look at my RXT photo installed to the engine. You can see the clutch line hanging there on the left side middle of the picture. Its a black elbow fitting on a black hose going upward. Its not really any more exposed to the headers than it was to the stock manifolds.

phunk · May 12, 2015

I forgot to add a note about the clutch install... someone just asked me by PM and reminded me.

About 30 minutes in driving, the check engine light came on and the car ran really rough. I remembered someone on here, I think Process, mentioned having to do a crank relearn after swapping the flywheel or this would happen. I have to assume this is because the crank trigger is sandwiched between the flywheel and crank, and its a little loose, and chances are, after reinstalling, it will be off by at least a few minutes (60ths of a degree) or maybe an entire degree I dont know didnt really study it much.

I turned the car off for 10 seconds and started it back up and the CEL was off and the car ran normal. I took it to my dyno shop who had a SCT x4 and did the crank relearn (didnt have to "marry it"), and that seemed to have resolved it, as probably 300 or more miles later, I have not had this come back.

ALSO, today I got a CEL for the cats. Efficiency below threshold is what I think it said. I just had a Innovate OT2 for my iphone in the glove box and plugged it in real quick to verify it wasnt another crank trigger issue and I saw that it was the cats. I cleared it and went on with my day.

I can safely assume that this code will be constantly coming and going until I get a custom tune. For me, this is not a problem as I can easily reset it in 30 seconds while driving. But for some, this could be a fair complaint about running LTH. With a custom tune, I am positive they could turn off this DTC, but at least here in Illinois, turning off DTCs will fail you at emissions if it results in your OBD system stating "system not ready / unavailable". That is what happens when we turn off DTCs in my Nissan projects, not sure if the Ford ECU does the same but I bet it does.

Jmeo · May 12, 2015

This is why I'm getting the "green" cats. Supposed to avoid this and pass Massachusetts emissions.

On my 05' I had the code your getting. I got bung extenders that screw into the spot where the 02 sensors were and then the 02 sensors screw into them. This pulls the 02 sensors out of the air flow to trick them into thinking everything is normal. Right now they are getting so much flow they think the cats are blown out. This should work for you as well and anyone else who is concerned.

Jaime

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

phunk's Whipple GT

SlimReaper

SlimReaper

dannycoconuts

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

Jmeo

You said member ;)

phunk

Well-Known Member

Jmeo

You said member ;)

caustin69

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

Jmeo

You said member ;)

phunk

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

phunk

Well-Known Member

Jmeo

You said member ;)

Similar threads