Clicking noise when letting go of gas from slight acceleration. Is this normal?

Andy13186

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Did the noise get progressively louder as you put more miles on the car or stayed the same?
stayed the same. I have 15k miles now. It doesnt do it when paddle shifting, I think it may be something to do with the torque converter or transmission.





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geep81

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I will say my 2019 GT did it from start until 7500 miles when it was bought back for paint issues, and my new 2020 GT does it too. It seems normal, as weird as it is...
 

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Update: I initially stated that the clicking noise goes away once warm. Not true, I heard it with the car fully warmed up as well, though it is muted compared to when cold. I was driving next to a wall and heard the clicking on deceleration.
 

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Update: I initially stated that the clicking noise goes away once warm. Not true, I heard it with the car fully warmed up as well, though it is muted compared to when cold. I was driving next to a wall and heard the clicking on deceleration.
Same here. It’s very audible when cold, but when warm you have to really really listen for it and be next to a wall to hear it, but it is still there. I honestly think this is the characteristic of the drivetrain
 
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Did they mention what exactly is causing the noise? It seems hard to believe the clicking sound is normal when it can get pretty loud.... ☹
They didn't give a detailed explanation. Just stated it is normal for the engine to make the noise.
 
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I guess we will see if it is actually doing damage or not once the miles keep on racking up.
 

CrashOverride

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More than likely piston rattle. There is even a table in the PCM to account for it. GM LS engines have it real bad when cold. It's a design compromise - if it wasn't loose in the bore, it wouldn't rattle, but then it would be too tight when it warms up and when you're rompin' on it. The dealer isn't going to say "piston rattle" or "piston slap" because it makes it sound like the engine is a POS and scare you. Nevertheless it is normal/expected.
 
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So I decided randomly today to rev my engine in park when the car was fully warmed up. The same noise is happening as when the car is cold but this time it is way louder. Does anyone else's car do this? Anyone know if this is normal? Sounds so bad..

 
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More than likely piston rattle. There is even a table in the PCM to account for it. GM LS engines have it real bad when cold. It's a design compromise - if it wasn't loose in the bore, it wouldn't rattle, but then it would be too tight when it warms up and when you're rompin' on it. The dealer isn't going to say "piston rattle" or "piston slap" because it makes it sound like the engine is a POS and scare you. Nevertheless it is normal/expected.
Can you take a look at my video on my last post. Is this the same piston rattle? And is it normal?
 

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I hear what sounds to me like air rushing past the throttle blade after you rev it a bit. It doesn't sound like piston rattle to me though, piston rattle sounds much worse.

If you listen closely to "Take 4" on this video, you can hear it. Almost sounds like rod knock because the piston is deep inside the engine, not like a lifter tap where the lifter is up on top.
You could have a friend rev the enging slightly like you did, while you listen close to the airbox. If you hear the whoosh after a rev, it's probably the increased velocity of air running past the throttle blade as it closes (after you take your foot off the gas).

If you're talking about the boomy/bass-heavy sound during the transients, that's completely normal, that's the PCM playing with the cams, timing, fueling and throttle. You can kind of see it if you bring up the wideband voltage in the dash - you can see it bounce around a little bit after you stab the throttle ever so slightly.
 
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I hear what sounds to me like air rushing past the throttle blade after you rev it a bit. It doesn't sound like piston rattle to me though, piston rattle sounds much worse.

If you listen closely to "Take 4" on this video, you can hear it. Almost sounds like rod knock because the piston is deep inside the engine, not like a lifter tap where the lifter is up on top.
You could have a friend rev the enging slightly like you did, while you listen close to the airbox. If you hear the whoosh after a rev, it's probably the increased velocity of air running past the throttle blade as it closes (after you take your foot off the gas).

If you're talking about the boomy/bass-heavy sound during the transients, that's completely normal, that's the PCM playing with the cams, timing, fueling and throttle. You can kind of see it if you bring up the wideband voltage in the dash - you can see it bounce around a little bit after you stab the throttle ever so slightly.
Would you say this is harming the engine? Looks like I need to take the car back to the dealer..
 

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It's a complicated answer. Technically piston slap does harm the engine, but it is a normal amount of harm. In other words, if you got a brand new engine, it would also do it. Even if you bought a Camaro instead, it would do it (A bit more I think). It's a necessary evil. If the whoosh is what you're concerned about, that's completely fine also - when the throttle blade closes, the air rushing past it breaks the sound barrier which is why you can hear it. Cold air intakes on the Coyote have a tendency to "whistle" at times, and that is also when the air speed breaks the sound barrier. (It sounds completely absurd I know, but lots of things break the sound barrier - whistles and the like).

I seriously don't think anything is wrong, but to offer you some peace of mind, I would run the oil until you got about 5000 miles on it, then capture some oil mid-cycle and send to blackstone labs for oil analysis. They can look at it compared to other coyote engines and see if your iron is high (Cylinder sleeves) or aluminum is high (Pistons). If the numbers are high, I'd go another 5000 miles and re-test. If they are still high, then take it to the dealer with the results.
 

ApplesAndOranges

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The clicking sound is 100% the sound of the timing chain tensioners collapsing at low engine speeds and oil temperatures, causing a quick slap of the timing chain on the guide rail.
 

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The clicking sound is 100% the sound of the timing chain tensioners collapsing at low engine speeds and oil temperatures, causing a quick slap of the timing chain on the guide rail.
Care to offer any support or backing for this theory/fact? Not saying that I don't believe this, but would like to hear more about how you came to this conclusion or learned this. In the long run, is this detrimental or will it cause an abnormal amount of wear on the guides or the chains? Is this due to lack of proper adjustment of the tensioners, or is this necessary for increased tension at higher RPM and thermal expansion?

TIA for any additional insight!
 

ApplesAndOranges

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Care to offer any support or backing for this theory/fact? Not saying that I don't believe this, but would like to hear more about how you came to this conclusion or learned this. In the long run, is this detrimental or will it cause an abnormal amount of wear on the guides or the chains? Is this due to lack of proper adjustment of the tensioners, or is this necessary for increased tension at higher RPM and thermal expansion?

TIA for any additional insight!
Sorry for the late reply! Yeah, I've had a lot of experience with the tensioners as of late. My 2019 A10 had the chirping noise at hot idle, 2k rattle, and did not have the lift off rattle, which is the sound in question.
I bought and installed mmr's new timing chain tensioners which prominently introduced the lift off rattle. Comparing the design of these tensioners with those of the factory, I noticed the stock tensioners uses a more aggressive mechanical limiting system while mmr's can be compressed by hand, but use a small inlet in the back with a rubber seal, and revised internals to comply with Ford's tsb for the chirping noise. Their design edge is clearly hydraulic. If you were to try mmr's tensioners, I would suspect your lift off rattle to be louder than it is now.
In conclusion, what I noticed was a louder lift off rattle that subsides when the car warms up, no chirping noise, and a 2k rattle that has substantially subsided. If I had to guess, the 2k rattle comes from more than one source as I can still slightly hear a noise from the engine that is subtle, and sounds nothing timing system related.
I wish I could say if the lift off rattle introduces longevity issues. I personally compensate for it with smooth throttle use until the car is up to temp.
 

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