Chimes through dash speaker..

[Blue Flame Raptor]

All of my 18+ fords have done it randomly. My 23 stang however is really really quiet for some reason. I actually never even noticed it exists until I turned just the accessories on without the engine.

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[luca1290]

I'll be very interested to hear the results of your troubleshooting.

I dont think it is the battery, on some occasions its happened (only the chimes, I havent had the same message my Mondeo displayed), the battery has a higher level (according to the digital gauge) than on occasions that it has behaved!

It does seem very random at times. For example, I drove a 150 round trip on Monday, spirited driving as well, it was misbehaving after that drive!

Here it is: sadly I wasn't as methodical as I wanted to, but I was time constrained so take it as it is.

First thing I hooked the car to my battery charger, since it also is a regulated power supply for ECU flashing it tells me how much energy went into the battery for the current charging cycle.
I went on my business and when I came back the battery only drew 4.4 Ah. To me that is a fully charged battery.

Then I fired up FDRS (Ford Diagnostic and Repair System, that is the Ford original diagnosis sofware) and looked at BCM PIDs (Body Computer Module exposes some data that you can read), specifically the BMS ones and for the BCM it was 28% charged!
I did a Network Test and FDRS found 0 DTCs but there was a calibration (firmware) update available for the TCU (Telematics Control Unit, it's a 4G modem). Third one in a year. Did it and took one hour and a half, all of it with the power supply set to 13.6V.
I don't think this has any relation to the battery issue but since I payed the 1 hour subscription I might as well use it.
At the end of the programming session the BMS was reporting 30% SoC (State of Charge).

Buttoned the car up, went to sleep.
This morning BMS reports 24% SoC with a battery voltage of 12.2V and 5.0A of load. I didn't turn on the ignition or any load since the BCM does respond to some diagnostic commands even with the ignition off.
I find 5.0A of loads acceptable as when you open the door something awakens and to my opinion 12.2V is a charged battery.
I can't fathom the 6% drop in SoC. I will monitor every morning for the next couple of days leaving the car completely unattended.

 

[The Latman]

Here it is: sadly I wasn't as methodical as I wanted to, but I was time constrained so take it as it is.

First thing I hooked the car to my battery charger, since it also is a regulated power supply for ECU flashing it tells me how much energy went into the battery for the current charging cycle.
I went on my business and when I came back the battery only drew 4.4 Ah. To me that is a fully charged battery.

Then I fired up FDRS and looked at BCM PIDs, specifically the BMS ones and for the BCM it was 28% charged!
I did a Network Test and FDRS found 0 DTCs but there was a calibration (firmware) update available for the TCU. Third one in a year. Did it and took one hour and a half, all of it with the power supply set to 13.6V.
I don't think this has any relation to the battery issue but since I payed the 1 hour subscription I might as well use it.
At the end of the programming session the BMS was reporting 30% SoC.

Buttoned the car up, went to sleep.
This morning BMS reports 24% SoC with a battery voltage of 12.2V and 5.0A of load. I didn't turn on the ignition or any load since the BCM does respond to some diagnostic commands even with the ignition off.
I find 5.0A of loads acceptable as when you open the door something awakens and to my opinion 12.2V is a charged battery.
I can't fathom the 6% drop in SoC. I will monitor every morning for the next couple of days leaving the car completely unattended.

Interesting....... not going to pretend I understand all of what you've said, but, correct me if Im wrong (please do!) but I think you're saying the battery despite being at full charge (according to the charger) was only reporting a 30% charge, which dropped overnight to 24%, again despite the battery being at 12.2v?

So this weird chiming issue could well be a battery problem as it was on my Mondeo?

How accurate are the digital gauges on the tft screen? I have the battery one set to display (due to my experiences with the Mondeo) and it generally reports 13v, occasionally dipping to 12.5 (in some cases the chimes have been via the backup speaker at 13v, the normal chimes at 12.5v - weird if it is a bettery issue!) or increasing to 13.5 - so as someone who seems to know a bit about this, is this gauge accurate?

 

[ice445]

Here it is: sadly I wasn't as methodical as I wanted to, but I was time constrained so take it as it is.

First thing I hooked the car to my battery charger, since it also is a regulated power supply for ECU flashing it tells me how much energy went into the battery for the current charging cycle.
I went on my business and when I came back the battery only drew 4.4 Ah. To me that is a fully charged battery.

Then I fired up FDRS and looked at BCM PIDs, specifically the BMS ones and for the BCM it was 28% charged!
I did a Network Test and FDRS found 0 DTCs but there was a calibration (firmware) update available for the TCU. Third one in a year. Did it and took one hour and a half, all of it with the power supply set to 13.6V.
I don't think this has any relation to the battery issue but since I payed the 1 hour subscription I might as well use it.
At the end of the programming session the BMS was reporting 30% SoC.

Buttoned the car up, went to sleep.
This morning BMS reports 24% SoC with a battery voltage of 12.2V and 5.0A of load. I didn't turn on the ignition or any load since the BCM does respond to some diagnostic commands even with the ignition off.
I find 5.0A of loads acceptable as when you open the door something awakens and to my opinion 12.2V is a charged battery.
I can't fathom the 6% drop in SoC. I will monitor every morning for the next couple of days leaving the car completely unattended.

I had this problem too, the only way to fix it is an actual system adaptation/KAM reset using a scan tool. Simply disconnecting the battery doesn't work. From what I can tell, this glitch can occur when using a battery tender for a long period of time. At some point the car goes to sleep and then stops monitoring the SoC. I don't know for sure, but it seems to make some sort of assumption about battery loss in this sleep mode, so the SoC will continue to go down over time, but it doesn't want to relearn the actual state after 8 hours like it's supposed to.

I suspect simply unlocking and then relocking the car with the fob periodically (like weekly perhaps) while it's on a tender is a good idea to avoid this.

As far as the sound through the instrument speaker thing, I've only had that when my battery was low. You don't always get the infotainment message for low battery either when it happens. If the battery voltage drops low enough during cranking the audio system won't boot up fast enough to let the chimes play through the speakers.

And to the above, the gauge is accurate, but if you're getting charging volts in the 12.5-13.5 range then the car is happy with the battery SoC (over 90%) and it's doing its variable charging to save some MPG.

 

[luca1290]

Interesting....... not going to pretend I understand all of what you've said, but, correct me if Im wrong (please do!) but I think you're saying the battery despite being at full charge (according to the charger) was only reporting a 30% charge, which dropped overnight to 24%, again despite the battery being at 12.2v?

So this weird chiming issue could well be a battery problem as it was on my Mondeo?

How accurate are the digital gauges on the tft screen? I have the battery one set to display (due to my experiences with the Mondeo) and it generally reports 13v, occasionally dipping to 12.5 (in some cases the chimes have been via the backup speaker at 13v, the normal chimes at 12.5v - weird if it is a bettery issue!) or increasing to 13.5 - so as someone who seems to know a bit about this, is this gauge accurate?

You understood correctly. That's what it's puzzling me. I guess I have to play the waiting game to understand if I have a faulty battery / ghost drain in the car OR it's just the BMS that went haywire and needs resetting.

The chiming problem is for sure battery related, that's how it works:

1. The ACM (Audio Control Module) / DSP (Digital Signal Processing for B&O) will test the impedance of the speakers
   1. If speakers are good, chimes will go through speakers
   2. If speakers are not good, chimes will go through instrument cluster
2. If the BMS is disabling systems to save power for start-up then this test will not be conducted and chimes will go through the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster).

Sorry I may have used too many abbreviations before, I therefore expanded every definition here and I will edit the post before to make it more clear.

 

[luca1290]

I had this problem too, the only way to fix it is an actual system adaptation/KAM reset using a scan tool. Simply disconnecting the battery doesn't work. From what I can tell, this glitch can occur when using a battery tender for a long period of time. At some point the car goes to sleep and then stops monitoring the SoC. I don't know for sure, but it seems to make some sort of assumption about battery loss in this sleep mode, so the SoC will continue to go down over time, but it doesn't want to relearn the actual state after 8 hours like it's supposed to.

That's what I hope will be the fix.
The thing is, when I hook up my battery tender I connect it in a way that the BMS can still monitor the battery. I'm not bypassing it by connecting directly to battery posts.
My car never entered deep sleep mode because every couple of weeks I wake her up somehow. And I know for a fact that until a few weeks ago SoC was reported correctly.

So either went completely beserk in a couple of weeks or I have a fault somewhere.

 

[ice445]

That's what I hope will be the fix.
The thing is, when I hook up my battery tender I connect it in a way that the BMS can still monitor the battery. I'm not bypassing it by connecting directly to battery posts.
My car never entered deep sleep mode because every couple of weeks I wake her up somehow. And I know for a fact that until a few weeks ago SoC was reported correctly.

So either went completely beserk in a couple of weeks or I have a fault somewhere.

Hmm, yeah I don't know then. My battery tender was connected properly as too, with the negative connected to a body ground. Same thing happened after a while. Doubt it's really a fault, I genuinely think it's some kind of software glitch. I reset mine and it's been good since. If you find out the actual cause definitely post it up on here.

 

[The Latman]

You understood correctly. That's what it's puzzling me. I guess I have to play the waiting game to understand if I have a faulty battery / ghost drain in the car OR it's just the BMS that went haywire and needs resetting.

The chiming problem is for sure battery related, that's how it works:

1. The ACM (Audio Control Module) / DSP (Digital Signal Processing for B&O) will test the impedance of the speakers
   1. If speakers are good, chimes will go through speakers
   2. If speakers are not good, chimes will go through instrument cluster
2. If the BMS is disabling systems to save power for start-up then this test will not be conducted and chimes will go through the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster).

Sorry I may have used too many abbreviations before, I therefore expanded every definition here and I will edit the post before to make it more clear.

Thanks for explaining. So it would seem it is a battery related issue, similar to my Mondeo. Its weird about the gauge and the issue.

 

[The Latman]

I had this problem too, the only way to fix it is an actual system adaptation/KAM reset using a scan tool. Simply disconnecting the battery doesn't work. From what I can tell, this glitch can occur when using a battery tender for a long period of time. At some point the car goes to sleep and then stops monitoring the SoC. I don't know for sure, but it seems to make some sort of assumption about battery loss in this sleep mode, so the SoC will continue to go down over time, but it doesn't want to relearn the actual state after 8 hours like it's supposed to.

I suspect simply unlocking and then relocking the car with the fob periodically (like weekly perhaps) while it's on a tender is a good idea to avoid this.

As far as the sound through the instrument speaker thing, I've only had that when my battery was low. You don't always get the infotainment message for low battery either when it happens. If the battery voltage drops low enough during cranking the audio system won't boot up fast enough to let the chimes play through the speakers.

And to the above, the gauge is accurate, but if you're getting charging volts in the 12.5-13.5 range then the car is happy with the battery SoC (over 90%) and it's doing its variable charging to save some MPG.

OK, thanks for this. It appears that the batter is the issue, well, not an issue as its good, but you know what I mean. Whats weird is that if the digital gauge for the battery is correct, then there are occasions when the car has misbehaved when its at a higher state than when it hasnt. Also, liek I mentioned earlier, i was on a 150 mile roudn trip and it did it after that.

What conditions have to be met for the variable battery charging to kick in? (Apologies for the question, only had the car a month so don't know all the ins & outs of her yet ) She is my daily drive - school run etc - so not always the biggest drive, may explain the battery issue.

Its more an irritant than anything, and unlike the mondeo, the mustang doen't have heated windscreen (though it does defrost faster than the quicklear did on the mondeo - thanks to the smaller windscreen I guess) or start / stop, also it hasnt had any issues with starting. So I guess I will just have to put up with it

 

[luca1290]

It always charge in an "intelligent" way, no matter how long is the drive.
If you have a way to monitor the BCM PIDs you will see it cycling through the phases as you drive.

 

[The Latman]

It always charge in an "intelligent" way, no matter how long is the drive.
If you have a way to monitor the BCM PIDs you will see it cycling through the phases as you drive.

Cool - Thanks for that....I assume you could use Forscan for that (excuse my ignorance if not), however bit hard to drive and watch the laptop

 

[Crew4991]

When I took the Mondeo into the Ford dealer about it, they stated it was standard behaviour (despite me never seeing it in the cars previous 3 years life with me. Had it from new).

Here we go again. Ford dealers claiming something is normal when it isn't. Common Ford it only becomes "normal" if it wasn't built correctly in the first place.

 

[2016S550]

Cool - Thanks for that....I assume you could use Forscan for that (excuse my ignorance if not), however bit hard to drive and watch the laptop

Do you keep your car inside and unlocked?

I would also give this a try:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...ingEnabled=False&userMarket=USA&buildtype=web

 

[luca1290]

Cool - Thanks for that....I assume you could use Forscan for that (excuse my ignorance if not), however bit hard to drive and watch the laptop

Both by using Forscan or FDRS you can plot it to a file and watch it later.
That's how I do.

 

[The Latman]

Here we go again. Ford dealers claiming something is normal when it isn't. Common Ford it only becomes "normal" if it wasn't built correctly in the first place.

Yup. What was really hilarious was in an effort to prove how 'normal' this was, they supposedly tested another Mondeo they had on the lot (which had only just reopened from lockdowns) and it did the same thing.....I had to inform them that they had better check the battery on that car!

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