Charging System Service Now

[Edkiefer]

Looks a little lower than the self discharge I did on my GT, but probably still within normal discharge rate.

Interesting results, can I ask was these results just after a battery charge and these data points are with battery connected , hood up, no doors opened or external loads of car ?
Only asking cause you have over a full day of higher that 12.7 which is generally highest voltage for full charge (approx ).

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[GT Pony]

Interesting results, can I ask was these results just after a battery charge and these data points are with battery connected , hood up, no doors opened or external loads of car ?
Only asking cause you have over a full day of higher that 12.7 which is generally highest voltage for full charge (approx ).

Yes, those measurements were taken after the battery was on a Battery Tender for a week, and then taken off.

And during the measurements, the battery was connected with hood up, and I made sure I never opened a door or made anything come on during the 10 days I took voltage measurements across the battery.

 

[davekro]

Yes, I did use a generic code scanner. (same model as one in link)
http://www.ebay.it/itm/TOPTAK-TP-11...w-CARRYING-CASE-AND-USER-MANUAL-/331678560089

My 9 day test was with hood (only) open, except for two times (days 2 & 4) I forgot and had to open door and triggered short shark/interior lights on.

" I would assume that checking for trouble-codes using the built-in 'Engineering Test' mode would show any code that's possible of being set."
Is there a way for me to do an 'Engineering Test' at home, or is that a dealer only test?

I assumed there were codes a dealer's equipment could read than my old generic OBDll reader would not.

 

[GT Pony]

Is there a way for me to do an 'Engineering Test' at home, or is that a dealer only test?

You can do it yourself. Once in ET mode, scroll through the menus and you'll see a screen showing any trouble-codes stored (seen at time 0:32 in the video).

[ame]

 

[davekro]

You can do it yourself. Once in ET mode, scroll through the menus and you'll see a screen showing any trouble-codes stored (seen at time 0:32 in the video).

Thanks for the ET test mode info. Unfortunately The ET test mode shows no DTC codes. That screen is blank (just as in the video ).

 

[paul123]

... Once in ET mode, scroll through the menus and you'll see a screen showing any trouble-codes stored (seen at time 0:32 in the video).

Can this show any trouble code or just a subset?

 

[GT Pony]

Can this show any trouble code or just a subset?

Not sure, but I would assume it will show all codes.

 

[davekro]

Not sure, but I would assume it will show all codes.

Hopefully a dealers diagnostic machine would have more robust abilities to define a dash warning message for 'Check Charging System Soon' than...
"Dude, check the wiars or sumpthin." :shrug:

 

[paul123]

you ever look into getting an OBD II reader? Maybe you would get lucky and it will display a code. You can get one with bluetooth and on-off switch, for cheap on amazon

 

[paul123]

$14 for this one :

http://www.amazon.com/Hikeren-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostics-Scanner/dp/B014MTAYK0

 

[GT Pony]

Thanks for the ET test mode info. Unfortunately The ET test mode shows no DTC codes. That screen is blank (just as in the video ).

Let the dealer check for codes with their super checker and see if it finds anything. It may show no codes also.

 

[paul123]

it would be annoying if an OBD II reader cannot see the charging system fault, but the dealership super checker can

 

[GT Pony]

it would be annoying if an OBD II reader cannot see the charging system fault, but the dealership super checker can

Agree ... and if ET mode doesn't show them all, that would be strange IMO.

 

[paul123]

agree ... ET should show them all

 

[Souldriver]

So here is my IMHO opinion.

I had something similar in my 2007, i would smell something but could never never find anything when i looked and one day the charging system light came on and it went away. I though ok nothing here to worry about just yet. Then one day im trying to get to the hospital to see a family member that was just omitted and the car does not start, i grab another car and go. when i get abck i look under the hood and the battery is boiled over and bubbling its acids all out.

I spend the day cleaning it up and i recharge it and make getting a new battery a priority. Well nope as i was going coming back from getting a new battery it happens again but i get home. At this point i know its not just the battery i do all the voltage tests and nothing major is showing but im finally able to narrow it down to the alternator.

The alternator's solenoids were stuck open and overcharging and baking the battery, thankfully at this point i didnt put the new one in. I change the alternator, put in the new battery and a year goes by. Then when i leave work on my way home i get the warning message again and i know its the alternator. Thank fully i got a larger battery and it gets me home though barely as i see the volt meter dropping with every press of the brake on my hour drive back. Switched it out under the parts warranty and its been ok.

During this time nothing was ever consistent, it would come and go when it wanted and it would never show when we ran voltage tests. We made sure all connections were clean and tight first before doing anything and never ruled anything out. IMHO the alternators in Fords are bottom tier. I went though 2 in under 45k miles on my '07, my sister's 2003 sable needed to be replaced, and my old family van needed it done as well. It could be bad luck but looking around others have bad experiences with their alternators as well.

I would disconnect all aftermarket stuff (including any of those insurance driving habit recorders, they kill electrical systems), test what you can, and if not have it looked at under warranty

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