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DrDing.Muscle

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I haven't really noticed a lot of settling if any. Mine looks the same as it did a month ago when I did the install.
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15RRGT

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I know that it is only a 1/2'' drop so I am not expecting anthing drastic by any means. Maybe it will just take some time for the rear to settle since the drop was minimal. I am very happy with the traction and stability in the rear now. My steering wheel is a little crooked now and my tires set out a little in the rear and in a little in the front but im sure an alignment will fix that

My steering wheel is a little off now too after installing the performance springs and cradle lockout. Haven't done the alignment yet because I wanted to give the springs time to settle. Hopefully an alignment will fix the steering along with the basic settings.
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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My steering wheel is a little off now too after installing the performance springs and cradle lockout. Haven't done the alignment yet because I wanted to give the springs time to settle. Hopefully an alignment will fix the steering along with the basic settings.
Did your performance springs drop in the rear?
 

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If the car does not drop, it could likely be something to do with the isolators not fully seated, or the rubber bushings need to be clocked.

It is rarely mentioned - and never has been discussed much, but when you lower a car you should technically loosen every suspension pivot point that has a bonded rubber bushing and then re-tighten. Loosen every bolt, where they are all loose...with the car on a drive on lift or ramps under all 4....then re-tighten.

On IRS cars, installing lowering springs and not getting the proper designed drop is somewhat common. We see this because we have been making IRS suspension for over 10+ years. On a Camaro for example, a 1" drop spring will only drop the car about .250" on the rear, until you clock the bushings.

On that note, did you actually measure the heights before and after?

Let's see a good side shot.
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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If the car does not drop, it could likely be something to do with the isolators not fully seated, or the rubber bushings need to be clocked.

It is rarely mentioned - and never has been discussed much, but when you lower a car you should technically loosen every suspension pivot point that has a bonded rubber bushing and then re-tighten. Loosen every bolt, where they are all loose...with the car on a drive on lift or ramps under all 4....then re-tighten.

On IRS cars, installing lowering springs and not getting the proper designed drop is somewhat common. We see this because we have been making IRS suspension for over 10+ years. On a Camaro for example, a 1" drop spring will only drop the car about .250" on the rear, until you clock the bushings.

On that note, did you actually measure the heights before and after?

Let's see a good side shot.
Thanks for the reply Kelly.
Excuse my ignorance but how do you clock the bushings? Is there only so far that they will turn? I'm assuming that you would loosen everyhting up while the car is on stands then turn them until they stop, is that correct?
Like I said in an earlier post I know that the dop is only 1/2'' so I am not expecting abything drastic and when I drove home last night other than my steering wheel being off I didn't notice a loose ride. I got on it one time and it actually did very well.
I didn't take pictures because it was too dark but I do have pictures of when i installed my wheels/tires and it looks exactly the same. I do know that when I installed my wheels/tires it did take a bit for it to settle so I am hoping that this is the case now.
I will take pictures when I get home today of it is not too dark
 

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Quiksilver15

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clocking the bushings mean lossening all the pivot points, allowing them to settle, then retightening. All while the suspension is completely loaded, meaning on a drive on lift.
 
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Soonertim4

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image.jpg
 
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Soonertim4

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Hmm....

The gap definitely doesn't look small enough, but maybe it is a shorter tire or something.

I would give it some time - and also clock the bushings, and see where that gets you.

I can't really compare the before and after from pictures, as that is very hard to do with .50" drop. It does appear to sit a little lower, but the photos are not replicas of the side shot.

I do think the slightly shorter tire out back is definitely making a difference here - because this is a very rare occurrence. When you are dealing with such a minimal drop, .250" in tire height increase or decrease plays tricks on your eyes when looking at wheel gaps.
 
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Soonertim4

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Hmm....

The gap definitely doesn't look small enough, but maybe it is a shorter tire or something.

I would give it some time - and also clock the bushings, and see where that gets you.

I can't really compare the before and after from pictures, as that is very hard to do with .50" drop. It does appear to sit a little lower, but the photos are not replicas of the side shot.

I do think the slightly shorter tire out back is definitely making a difference here - because this is a very rare occurrence. When you are dealing with such a minimal drop, .250" in tire height increase or decrease plays tricks on your eyes when looking at wheel gaps.
I do agree that the drop is minimal. I am not having any driving issues, no squeaks, or body movement and the gap is not horrible. I am going to try and get the alignment done since I had an early day.
I tried to send you a pic on pm but it wont let me
image.webp
 

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BMR Tech

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Can you post the picture of where it was sitting on the bushing?

Something isnt right...lol
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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We had the cup against the bushing trying to push it
 

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I can send you as new plate....but if it happens again, something else is wrong and we need to look into it.
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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I can send you as new plate....but if it happens again, something else is wrong and we need to look into it.
That would be great
 
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Soonertim4

Soonertim4

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Waitn to get her aligned
image.webp
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