Camber Bolts/OEM Alignment Procedure

[onosqv]

What tool is everyone using to slot the extra 2mm?

Are you just drilling out the hole larger entirely? Or using a dremel and slowly sanding away the side?

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[TMAN1985]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum-motorsports-caster-camber-plates-2015/p/CCP45/

 

[DickR]

Update on the info that Boardkat posted which included a picture of bolts that I originally posted: At last check about one month ago the only bolt part number that the Ford system shows for 2015 Mustangs is the splined part that the factory uses. There is some indication that Ford is "working on" officially providing a bolt without splines but until then the ONLY bolt that is legal per the SCCA Street class rules is the splined version. No aftermarket camber bolts either.

Dick

 

[DickR]

What tool is everyone using to slot the extra 2mm?

Are you just drilling out the hole larger entirely? Or using a dremel and slowly sanding away the side?

I used a an air powered die grinder with a carbide bit. It works very quickly so it is best to only get close with the die grinder and then finish slowly with a round file.

Do not just drill the hole larger.

For F Street autocrossing info see the thread in the autocross, etc. forum

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24778

 

[DickR]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum-motorsports-caster-camber-plates-2015/p/CCP45/

FYI for folks not familiar with SCCA autocross rules: In the "Street" class camber plates are not "legal".

 

[Ryan1112]

I used a an air powered die grinder with a carbide bit. It works very quickly so it is best to only get close with the die grinder and then finish slowly with a round file.

Do not just drill the hole larger.

For F Street autocrossing info see the thread in the autocross, etc. forum

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24778

Did you take the strut completely out or just pull the spindle off the strut and grind?

 

[DickR]

Did you take the strut completely out or just pull the spindle off the strut and grind?

Both ways.

My dealer's mechanic did it in the car on the original struts using my die grinder and carbide bit but I could tell he struggled a little. (I couldn't drive the splined bolts out the first time :( Since my dealer is also an SCCA racer I trusted his guys to do a good job)

I did a new set of struts in preparation for installing Koni race inserts outside the car and recommend that approach for accuracy. Once you remove the caliper, rotor, and the big splined bolts, the rest of the strut removal process is easy and you will have much better access for measuring and grinding.

If you haven't removed struts previously be sure to remove the sway bar links on both sides of the car before trying to remove either strut. This keeps the bar "relaxed".

 

[HeelToeHero]

Can someone repost the procedure? The images aren't there anymore...

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