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Caliperfexion Studs with extenders Availability

Saxgod

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Looking at purchasing a set but their website hasnt listed them in weeks. Just curious if anyone knows what is going on with them?

Second question: saw a video mentioning the stainless was probably not the way to go because of seizing. Is this true?

Thanks in advance.
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Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
Covid, supply chain, no inventory. Waiting patiently.

Regarding stainless in this application...never remove or try to torque hot fasteners, don't use impact tools on them, and use the included ARP thread lubricant. Potential issues mitigated.

Internet experts/YouTube videos....yikes. The stainless alloy used is 17-4PH and it is perfect for this application. You don't see brake manufacturers or OEM's use stainless fasteners at the caliper to spindle or knuckle interface due to cost. But those same manufacturers use them frequently, across the spectrum in motorsports where pinching pennies to maximize profits is not a concern. For example, the GT4 cars use stainless caliper studs and while I knew they had them up front on their Brembo setups, I had yet to see the back. Plenty of people ask why they can't use a stud on the rear calipers and you have to explain to them that the factory rear calipers are not a radial mount, such as the fronts. While at Daytona in '18 with Kohr's team there was a mid race incident that sent one of the two cars they were running back to the paddock for repairs. I left the pits and followed the car to get a closer look at the hardware being used on the rears.

Note, Multimatic uses Brembo's out back that convert side mount to radial mount as well as 17-4PH stainless caliper studs.

20180126_155600-XL.jpg


20180126_160653-X2.jpg


20180126_160656-X3.jpg
 
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Saxgod

Saxgod

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@Epiphany Thank you for the great reply. Exactly what I needed.
 

ICU812

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Covid, supply chain, no inventory. Waiting patiently.

Regarding stainless in this application...never remove or try to torque hot fasteners, don't use impact tools on them, and use the included ARP thread lubricant. Potential issues mitigated.

Internet experts/YouTube videos....yikes. The stainless alloy used is 17-4PH and it is perfect for this application. You don't see brake manufacturers or OEM's use stainless fasteners at the caliper to spindle or knuckle interface due to cost. But those same manufacturers use them frequently, across the spectrum in motorsports where pinching pennies to maximize profits is not a concern. For example, the GT4 cars use stainless caliper studs and while I knew they had them up front on their Brembo setups, I had yet to see the back. Plenty of people ask why they can't use a stud on the rear calipers and you have to explain to them that the factory rear calipers are not a radial mount, such as the fronts. While at Daytona in '18 with Kohr's team there was a mid race incident that sent one of the two cars they were running back to the paddock for repairs. I left the pits and followed the car to get a closer look at the hardware being used on the rears.

Note, Multimatic uses Brembo's out back that convert side mount to radial mount as well as 17-4PH stainless caliper studs.

20180126_155600-XL.jpg


20180126_160653-X2.jpg


20180126_160656-X3.jpg
Ok, I gotta ask, why would a race team use stainless on a part that gets hot, really hot , that they might have to pull apart while hot, and bolt back together while still really hot.
It is everything you listed not to do in your first paragraph .
 

Epiphany

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Valid question. Because typically there is no need to pull the caliper off during a race. The pads are extra thick on these cars and can be removed quickly via the top of the caliper if for some reason they have to be. The car in the photos you see was done for the day and DNF so it was casually driven to the paddock from the pit and the team was in no hurry to get the car back on track.
 

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Saxgod

Saxgod

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Thread Necromancer here...Is this still unavailable due to supply constraints or is something else going on? Looking to pick up a set but the site still just says coming soon. I must have missed the resupply...

Thanks!
 

Booboo

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Covid, supply chain, no inventory. Waiting patiently.

Regarding stainless in this application...never remove or try to torque hot fasteners, don't use impact tools on them, and use the included ARP thread lubricant. Potential issues mitigated.

Internet experts/YouTube videos....yikes. The stainless alloy used is 17-4PH and it is perfect for this application. You don't see brake manufacturers or OEM's use stainless fasteners at the caliper to spindle or knuckle interface due to cost. But those same manufacturers use them frequently, across the spectrum in motorsports where pinching pennies to maximize profits is not a concern. For example, the GT4 cars use stainless caliper studs and while I knew they had them up front on their Brembo setups, I had yet to see the back. Plenty of people ask why they can't use a stud on the rear calipers and you have to explain to them that the factory rear calipers are not a radial mount, such as the fronts. While at Daytona in '18 with Kohr's team there was a mid race incident that sent one of the two cars they were running back to the paddock for repairs. I left the pits and followed the car to get a closer look at the hardware being used on the rears.

Note, Multimatic uses Brembo's out back that convert side mount to radial mount as well as 17-4PH stainless caliper studs.
Would one still have to wait for everything to cool down if the (stronger they say) 4340 ct10 studs were used?
 

JAJ

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Would one still have to wait for everything to cool down if the (stronger they say) 4340 ct10 studs were used?
Interesting question - the straight up answer is "yes, let it cool down" because it's not really how strong the studs are that's the issue, it's how much tension they're under because of thermal expansion of the parts they're holding together. The classic example of how this can go wrong is the HPDE driver that re-torques their wheel nuts when they get back to the paddock between sessions, and ends up with snapped studs because torquing them hot leaves them way over-torqued when they cool off.

As for strength, it depends on heat treatment, but 4340 and 17-4PH have similar yield strengths, with the 17-4PH being maybe 10-15% stronger than 4340.
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