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Bumpsteer on Stock Mustang

Muevelos

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Back again! Since I've had this car the steering is little wonky! I believe the issue is Bumpsteer? Any pot holes, my tires go in a direction, if i don't have hulk like wheel strength i would be probably be dead. Any some higher speeds when it comes to break in if there's any slight irregularities in the road, the car will pull in that direction while braking. Any advice?

I have the steeda Bumpsteer and RC kit in my cart, but I don't have my car lowered yet. so I'm wondering if the bump steer kit would be useless if I'm not lowered or if the issue could be something else meaning I might need a totally different part. Thanks again
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NightmareMoon

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If you're not lowered its probably not bumpsteer. Sounds like tramlining.

When is the last time you had your alignment checked? How bald are the tires? Both of those things can make exaggerate tramlining.
 
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Muevelos

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If you're not lowered its probably not bumpsteer. Sounds like tramlining.

When is the last time you had your alignment checked? How bald are the tires? Both of those things can make exaggerate tramlining.
Tires are perfect, car has 9,000 miles. Only had it for almost 3 months now, haven't has a alignment as I haven't added my suspension parts yet.
 

AlbertD

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If you put on the RC correction and DIDN'T get an alignment that is your problem... the RC correction kit will inject a tremendous amount of toe out since the lateral arms are shorter. Toe out (especially the amount you got as a result of that install) will cause steering twitchiness.... If you continue driving like that you will get premature tire wear... trust me, been there done that.

Get an alignment asap.

Another thing to consider... that kit was designed for a lowered car... if you are still at stock height it is probably doing more harm than good since the roll center is now pushed up above it's intended engineered range.
 
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Muevelos

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If you put on the RC correction and DIDN'T get an alignment that is your problem... the RC correction kit will inject a tremendous amount of toe out since the lateral arms are shorter. Toe out (especially the amount you got as a result of that install) will cause steering twitchiness.... If you continue driving like that you will get premature tire wear... trust me, been there done that.

Get an alignment asap.

Another thing to consider... that kit was designed for a lowered car... if you are still at stock height it is probably doing more harm than good since the roll center is now pushed up above it's intended engineered range.
Hello, sorry if i wasn't clear, my setup is stock. I have the RC kit, in my cart on Steeda though.
 

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AlbertD

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Eh... Not necessarily.
Could you expand on that @Brian@BMVK

From my understanding the kit changes the geometry to push the roll center up. On a lowered car this would be good since the roll center is likely to have been pushed down from lowering creating a stronger pendulum (roll effect) during cornering. So the kit would raise that back up closer to where it was on a stock setup thus reducing roll. On a stock setup however, raising the roll center up above it's starting point... doesn't seem like that would be useful in any way.
 

AlbertD

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Much appreciate the detailed explanation Brian. Makes sense. Sometimes I forget that the original design may not be completely ideal as you noted their may be compromises as delivered... for a variety of reasons. I do however put most of my trust into the original engineering of the product as the time invested and knowledge is substantial compared to the DIY situation, but yeah I understand what you are saying in that there are certainly areas that may be drastically improved on... if they are done correctly.

OP I agree with NightmareMoon... those are the exact things I would be looking at as well that attribute to what you are experiencing.
 

NightmareMoon

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Most people don’t experience extreme tramlining with 285 tires and sock suspension, but alignment matters, and it does depend on what you’re used to. Sports cars are twitchier than your average SUV in general. 285 MP4S on my car are not darty IMHO but you can’t snooze behind the wheel when going over grooved pavement like you can with some cars

Toe alignment is a big deal for steering self-centering or darty behavior. A quick front wheel alignment might reveal if its just toe or if you have something else going on. If you like a heavier steering feel and detest a high maintenance steering wheel, dial a slight bit of toe in on the front axle. Factory specs are 0.0 toe and are a good choice IMHO, but some people just prefer the feel of toe in or toe out even.
 
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Muevelos

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Most people don’t experience extreme tramlining with 285 tires and sock suspension, but alignment matters, and it does depend on what you’re used to. Sports cars are twitchier than your average SUV in general. 285 MP4S on my car are not darty IMHO but you can’t snooze behind the wheel when going over grooved pavement like you can with some cars

Toe alignment is a big deal for steering self-centering or darty behavior. A quick front wheel alignment might reveal if its just toe or if you have something else going on. If you like a heavier steering feel and detest a high maintenance steering wheel, dial a slight bit of toe in on the front axle. Factory specs are 0.0 toe and are a good choice IMHO, but some people just prefer the feel of toe in or toe out even.
I'll probably get a alignment soon then. I have the 20" Goodyear AS tires. Planning to switch in the spring.
 

K4fxd

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I just had an alignment and it really made a difference. I do like a tiny bit of toe-in, back in tech school I was taught the wheels want to toe out when going forward. A small amount of toe-in gets you 0 toe in motion. In theory at least. Plus it makes the car feel more stable.

Find a shop that will take the time to get it right, you want the numbers to be the same side to side. Most shops will turn the light green in win-align and call it good. Make sure they bounce the car after each adjustment. You want the suspension settled so the specs won't change when it comes off the rack.

Good street settings, at least for me are.

-1.6 camber front each tire
7+ caster
.04 toe in each side steer ahead 0.00
REAR
-1.2 camber
.11 toe-in
.22 total toe
.0 thrust angle

For the front, you will need either camber plates or camber bolts.

These specs are taken from a few places on this forum. I can attest they work very good on the street.
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