Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

[Bull Run]

Since I'm pretty much maxed out on the stock block, I decided to start on some of the supporting mods for the eventual installation of a built engine in the future.

First up was the downpipe. I already upgraded 3" Corsa DP with a high-flow cat, but the local dyno/tuner guy stated that he typically sees ~10WHP gain going from catted (even the high-flow ones) to catless, plus it also helps with turbo longevity. While I didn't take a picture of it before the install, I went with MBRP catless PD as Corsa doesn't sell a catless version of it's DP, and MBRP unit looked similar in shape. I ended cutting the end piece of the MBRP DP in half to get rid of the reducer (to fit the stock exhaust). This allowed it to fit into the existing 3" custom exhaust, it'll also allow me to swap back to the Corsa DP if needed.

Pros
While ~10WHP difference will be hard to feel, there was a noticeable reduction of turbo lag. It'sn ot that VS2+ is laggy, but it catless made it seem like VS2+ spools about as fast as the much smaller stock turbo paired with the OEM DP.

Cons
A small increase in exhaust noise, much smaller impact than resonator or muffler related changes.
Stinkier exhaust small. Folks in emissions Nazi states may want to stick with catted DP as the increase in "stinkiness" is noticeable.

Second upgrade was the intercooler. Although CPE intercooler is more than sufficient for the stock block (CPE states it's good for up to 500whp), I decided to go with a larger ETS intercooler as their site states it's good for around 700WHP.

As you can see from the comparison photos, ETS has more than double the front surface area than the CPE unit.

CPE IC

ETS IC
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ETS IC with bumper cover on

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[prostovovatt]

Why didn't you go with CP-E Race IC?? Out of Curiosity

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

I love my ETS intercooler. Best mod so far. Who are you getting to build your engine? How much power are you looking for?

 

[Bull Run]

Why didn't you go with CP-E Race IC?? Out of Curiosity

I wasn't really planning on upgrading now but happened to see the sale for ETS. Also, CP-E race version is almost twice the cost. Granted, CPE IC I had on has thicker casted end tanks and probably holds up to abuse better, but I think that ETS will be good enough for my use case.

I love my ETS intercooler. Best mod so far. Who are you getting to build your engine? How much power are you looking for?

Thanks, good to hear that it worked out great for you. I don't have a set timeline yet, most likely either when I pay off the mortgage (about 1 year left at the current rate) or if I end up with ecoboom, whichever comes first. I'll be happy with low-600 WHP but my biggest limitation will be the lack of E85 stations nearby and will have to rely on WMI. I currently have AEM stage 2, which is a progressive controller using boost pressure only. May look into other controllers that also factor in the amount of fuel injected to create a 2D map for WMI.

 

[prostovovatt]

Do you recommend me upgrading my turbo on stock block with FBO?

 

[MakStang]

Do you recommend me upgrading my turbo on stock block with FBO?

This is what I did. Check my signature.

 

[1320INC]

Very nice ride and extremely thorough post !! Great info here.

 

[Bull Run]

Do you recommend me upgrading my turbo on stock block with FBO?

I'd say so if you are at FBO, want to squeeze out more power at top, and don't have access to E85/race gas to run crazy timings to make up for the small turbo. If you don't have access to E85, consider WMI as there's a noticeable difference between it and 91 oct alone.

EDIT: Found the link to my initial impression of the VS2+ upgrade: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vargas-stage-2-initial-impression.80690/

 

[Cardude99]

How has the A81 hood dealt with underhood temps? Any noticable improvement?

 

[Bull Run]

How has the A81 hood dealt with underhood temps? Any noticable improvement?

Can't really tell as the IAT was already only 0-2 above ambient while cruising. I'm thinking it should help since openings provide extra incoming air (due to open grill) more escape paths.

 

[Bull Run]

Installed Snow Performance Stage 3 DI WMI system today: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/snow-performance-stage-3-di-install-notes.115465/

Initial test looks good, will post a review there once I have more time to test and tune the settings.

 

[Adam J]

I know you have posted this before but I really like your wheel/tire setup. Could you post your full wheel/tire specs. Thanks.

 

[Bull Run]

I know you have posted this before but I really like your wheel/tire setup. Could you post your full wheel/tire specs. Thanks.

No problem, they are Advanti DST HY Hybris, 19x9.5, 40mm offset. Note that I had to get a 3mm spacer because there was a slight rubbing with the 4-piston calipers. Also, note that the wheel caps won't fit up front unless you have a set of wider spacers. I just left mine off. I was able to ditch the 3mm spacer once I upgraded to 6-piston Brembos.

Tires are 285/35 19's. 285's are widest recommended for these wheels.

 

[Bull Run]

Finally found some time for the installation and re-wiring of the kit.

Below is the wiring diagram that I drew as the end goal. SafeInjection and gauges were not installed this go-around.

The first thing I noticed after the bumper cover removal was that the ducting for JTL brake cooling kit ran right below the washer tank. This was a no-go since I already tapped the bottom of the new tank for the fluid outlet.

Fortunately, there is plenty of space behind the tank (enough space that someone with metal fabrication skills can create a pump mount and mount it there), so I ran the cooling duct through there to get air from the lower grill. It looked like the underbody cover is strong enough to support the weight of the pump, so I mounted on it underneath the tank.

Cut a hole in the plastic block-off by the intercooler and zip-tied the duct there. It's hardly noticeable once the bumper cover is installed.

The failsafe relay is mounted access the turbo using an existing screw, which also serves as its grounding point. The current from the ECU to the Turbo Wastegate Regulating Valve Solenoid (TCWRVS) runs through it. This circuit is closed when the relay is not energized. Once energized, the circuit opens and TCWRVS become disabled, which limits the turbo to the WGA spring rate. For example, if you're running a WGA with 10 PSI spring, max boost you'll see will be about 10 PSI. You can test this by simply unplugging the TCWRVS pigtail and going for a test drive.

Splices for the TCWRVS and FRP sensor wires were made by the ECU harness. Rewrapped the wiring bundle with some friction tape to keep the factory look.

Behind the wheel well cover by the driver's side firewall is the junction point for all the wires and hoses in and out of the engine bay and the cabin. I cut an electrical distribution box into halves to make it function as two, one for the failsafe circuit and the other for the pump circuit. Distribution box makes future expansions easier by avoiding multiple taps for a given wire.

The failsafe side has three wires; low fluid warning source (+) wire, and (+) wire for the failsafe relay and the warning light. If Safeinjection is added, its warning source (+) wire will be added here.

The pump side currently only has two wires, pump (+) wire from the controller and pump (+) wire going to the pump. Future accessories triggers from the pump activation goes here, such as the trigger wires for the Failsafe and anti-gravity feed solenoids.

The expanded view of the junction area, with the distribution box cover on.

I installed a 4-pin relay as shown in the wiring diagram (forgot to take its installed picture), which goes to a fuse box where the old AEM controller used to be mounted. It also works as the distribution box for the ground (see the black wires on the top).

It only has two active circuits now, one for the controller and the other for the low fluid level failsafe. Boost and flow gauges will be added here once installed.

Fuse box with its cover installed.

I turned the car on before filling the tank to test the low fluid level failsafe. Verified that it worked by seeing the warning light mounted above the steering column light up and the check engine light flashing.

Code P0246 will be record when the failsafe activates.

Turned the engine off, cleared the code, filled up the tank, and fired up the engine once I verified that there were no leaks. The warning light stayed off and no new codes were logged.

While I didn't install any gauges this time, I went ahead and tapped the (+) wire for the parking light and ran it to the cabin before reinstalling the bumper cover. This will provide a 12v source for the nighttime mode.

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