Broken crankshaft

[CJJon]

It's composition is designed for a naturally aspirated, 435hp requirement. What looks shitty about it? The fact that it is broken? So in theory, one could say if anything breaks that it is of shitty material?

There are posts on this forum of block failures. Shitty block.

6r and 10r failures. Shitty transmissions.

Ford makes a mustang with a better crank, better block and better transmission. Its the gt500. Not the shitty GT.

Wow, triggered much? It looks like there are inclusions in the steel. As well as radial cracking and the overall grain structure looks inconsistent. Looks like shitty steel to me.

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[80FoxCoupe]

Wow, triggered much? It looks like there are inclusions in the steel. As well as radial cracking and the overall grain structure looks inconsistent. Looks like shitty steel to me.

Triggered? No, being realistic yes. Im intrigued by your in depth knowledge of metallurgy. Where did you study and what are your scholastic accolades related to this subject? You are far more advanced in this field than I, as i do not have an issue with admitting that.

Seriously though.

The facts as i see it, is that we are all using these components far beyond thier intended use. Failures occur. Improper material for a 900hp application? Likely. But Ford did not select this material for the OP's 900hp application.

I just thought the comment of "shitty material" was odd. But hey i make odd comments all the time also LOL.

But lets all be clear that the stock crank is a $300 piece that we are making a shitload of power with. I think the fact that its possible is a win!

 

[SolarFlare]

Tough to think a crank snout breaks in first drive after a support gets removed…. Sucks.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Tough to think a crank snout breaks in first drive after a support gets removed…. Sucks.

Its likely the snout had some fractures present and that the support was holding it together. Once removed, she done came apart. It would be ideal to know if support was on from day one? Ive seen a few engines pulled apart for various reasons with fractures in the snout, but still together. Just a matter of time in those cases.

 

[TGGT]

Breaking parts is part of going fast. Always has been always will be. Factory parts are definitely designed to operate as the engineers intended and will do so with little to no problems. I knew the risk in modifying my vehicle and I have zero regrets. It would be nice if everything was as cheap as it was back in the day when I was building small block chevy’s, but it is what it is

 

[TGGT]

Its likely the snout had some fractures present and that the support was holding it together. Once removed, she done came apart. It would be ideal to know if support was on from day one? Ive seen a few engines pulled apart for various reasons with fractures in the snout, but still together. Just a matter of time in those cases.

Curious about this as well. I also would like to know if a crank stud was used or a bolt and what torquing procedure was used? Also curious about the balancer hub to crank snout fit. Was it measured? Just trying to find a common denominator amongst the failures

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Breaking parts is part of going fast. Always has been always will be. Factory parts are definitely designed to operate as the engineers intended and will do so with little to no problems. I knew the risk in modifying my vehicle and I have zero regrets. It would be nice if everything was as cheap as it was back in the day when I was building small block chevy’s, but it is what it is

Agreed.

As a general statement, there are things that can be done to get the most out of the stock crank.

Crank stud (allows more accurate torque vs bolt, Kinetic stud fills gap as pilot hole is larger than threads. This could increase rigidity.)
Crank support
Double keyway (Evens out rotational stresses on snout by adding a second keyway 180deg from oem key)
Proper pulley config (proper pulley diameters to eliminate belt slip if any, and also to minimize belt tension. Also note proper pulley diameters to achieve desired boost level at a lower maximum RPM)

Limit max rpm

 

[TGGT]

Agreed.

As a general statement, there are things that can be done to get the most out of the stock crank.

Crank stud (allows more accurate torque vs bolt, Kinetic stud fills gap as pilot hole is larger than threads. This could increase rigidity.)
Crank support
Double keyway (Evens out rotational stresses on snout by adding a second keyway 180deg from oem key)
Proper pulley config (proper pulley diameters to eliminate belt slip if any, and also to minimize belt tension. Also note proper pulley diameters to achieve desired boost level at a lower maximum RPM)

Limit max rpm

Interesting that you mention belt slip. It’s one of my theories relating to my situation. I think I may have been experiencing belt slip for some time and I feel like this could put more of a torsional shock load on the crank snout as the belt slips and grabs. Also the double key ways really makes sense.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I'm bad about just turning up the RPM for more power, versus smaller pulley. At a certain point when you pulley down it adds a lot of mid-range power and based on track conditions and/or suspension setup You may be going backwards by adding the smaller pulley. In the scenario I described it was much easier to add RPM and horsepower at the top and leave the rest the same.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Interesting that you mention belt slip. It’s one of my theories relating to my situation. I think I may have been experiencing belt slip for some time and I feel like this could put more of a torsional shock load on the crank snout as the belt slips and grabs. Also the double key ways really makes sense.

Also when making a bunch of boost, you definitely want a good blow off setup. Large valve in an ideal spot to vent that boost pressure when the throttle blade closes.

 

[SJ-KY]

Any of you all that’s broke cranks using that new kinetic ARP crank bolt set up? Also what options do we have in stronger aftermarket cranks to keep from this happening?

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Any of you all that’s broke cranks using that new kinetic ARP crank bolt set up? Also what options do we have in stronger aftermarket cranks to keep from this happening?

Available cranks are Predator $1200, Callies $1100, Winberg $5k and Crower $5k. Thats not to say a snout cannot be snapped off of one of those.

 

[TGGT]

In a bazaar coincidence I just lost the engine on my daily. I was getting of the freeway and much like the mustang the engine just shut off. So I coasted into a gas station, tried to start it again. The started engaged but the engine rotated for a split second and stopped. I got out and popped the head and I could see a timing gear poking through the cover. It’s just not a good time for me and engines

 

[turnswrench]

In a bazaar coincidence I just lost the engine on my daily. I was getting of the freeway and much like the mustang the engine just shut off. So I coasted into a gas station, tried to start it again. The started engaged but the engine rotated for a split second and stopped. I got out and popped the head and I could see a timing gear poking through the cover. It’s just not a good time for me and engines

Efff man... Stay inside if there's a chance of lightning.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

In a bazaar coincidence I just lost the engine on my daily. I was getting of the freeway and much like the mustang the engine just shut off. So I coasted into a gas station, tried to start it again. The started engaged but the engine rotated for a split second and stopped. I got out and popped the head and I could see a timing gear poking through the cover. It’s just not a good time for me and engines

Damn man, what daily??

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