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timd38

timd38

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Aren't the rotors diferent sizes?

Ford lists the dust shields as different parts numbers for the GT ad GTPP

I'm considering just sourcing the parts and doing this myself instead of dropping $1300 for the Ford Racing kit..
I used the GT shields and the PP shields, they compliment each other.
 

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I'm thinking about buying these, taking it apart, and sending it in for powder coating. Is it easy enough to take these apart and use the same components to put together?

If not, I might just paint bomb these with g2 caliper paint.
 

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would think you still have to bleed it even clamping it off, with a caliper removal, but a lot less bleeding
 

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Are there any other ways to do this without clamping the calipers?

It's bad to let all the fluid drain from the banjo nut/brake line - what you intend to get rid of all the brake fluid to begin with?
 
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Are there any other ways to do this without clamping the calipers?

It's bad to let all the fluid drain from the banjo nut/brake line - what you intend to get rid of all the brake fluid to begin with?
I just did it today, clamped nothing and used about 8oz of brake fluid. Not really a big deals to bleed them.
 

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I just did it today, clamped nothing and used about 8oz of brake fluid. Not really a big deals to bleed them.

what's this I hear about running the master cylinder dry?

Obviously, when I plan to do it, I'm not going to turn the car on, but can't I just let all the fluid drain out, switch the metal pipe + banjo bolt onto the new caliper, tighten and fill the master cylinder?

What's the need of compressing the brake pedal - won't this make the brake fluid in the open line piss out even faster?
 

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what's this I hear about running the master cylinder dry?

Obviously, when I plan to do it, I'm not going to turn the car on, but can't I just let all the fluid drain out, switch the metal pipe + banjo bolt onto the new caliper, tighten and fill the master cylinder?

What's the need of compressing the brake pedal - won't this make the brake fluid in the open line piss out even faster?
Yeah, you should read up on bleeding brakes before doing it. Best to not let the master, or even worse, ABS unit ever get a bubble. I use a pressure bleeder, and never let the fluid run low. And really you start with the right rear brake.
 

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fluid just wont drain out, its a pressurized system. It would have to be pumped dry
 

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fluid just wont drain out, its a pressurized system. It would have to be pumped dry
Unless it is unlike any other system I have seen in the last four decades, it will eventually drip out.
 
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Unless it is unlike any other system I have seen in the last four decades, it will eventually drip out.
It won't drain in the 3 minutes it takes to remove the hose from the old caliper to the new one. I just did it yesterday and used 1/2 bottle of fluid, not a big deal.

I agree that eventually all the fluid would leak out, but that takes time, so yes, if I unhooked the lines today and reattached on Wednesday, you would lose all the fluid, but not in the couple minutes it takes to transfer the line.
 

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I guess it would probably happen even faster if you opened the cap for the master cylinder. It would have the same effect of emptying a water bottle with a hole in the top... Right?
 
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I guess it would probably happen even faster if you opened the cap for the master cylinder. It would have the same effect of emptying a water bottle with a hole in the top... Right?
Exactly! You should never leave the cap off because moisture is an issue with brakes and brake fluid attracts moisture.
 
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Just swapped out the rear rotors with slotted to match the front. 40 minute job, so not a big deal.
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