Breaking in an Engine with Turbos installed and Fuel Rail need.

[noshine4mine]

Looking for opinions.
Soon my engine will be here. My concern is I will need to break the engine in. But since the Turbo kit is part of the exhaust I will need it attached to drive the car around. My Idea was to remove the Blow off valves and let the pressure bleed off. I will probably cut up a cheap air filter and zip tie it around the holes. just incase something gets sucked in.
Anyone think of a better way to handle the problem?

Also I have the ID1050x injectors and I am contemplating upgrading the fuel rails. I am just going to run 93 and I am not sure I need to upgrade. at what point should I think about ditching the factory fuel rails?


Thanks,

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[Angrey]

The motor "breaks" in very quickly and you don't really need anything other than idling to do it.

The rings are the real issue and getting them to seal properly, you'll need some good loading and rips from 2k-5k in a higher gear.

The rotating components will mate and wear very quickly, within the first few minutes of operation (if you're using conventional which is recommended for break in).

You could have your tuner send you a very safe break in tune that you can run on wastegate. Flip them some logs to verify and just get the rings loaded and warmed up, swap the filter and oil and you're gtg to send it.

 

[EFI]

Might be a bit late, but can you have the engine builder break it in on the engine stand before shipping out to you?

 

[noshine4mine]

Might be a bit late, but can you have the engine builder break it in on the engine stand before shipping out to you?

Do believe it is too late. I am told it is at the shipping dock.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Man, I would just try to stay out of the boost. You can do that with just your right foot.

I drove from Texas to Colorado one time just staying out of the boost with some throttle control (to get a car tuned in Grand Junction) and it was not that hard at all.

 

[Zrussian13]

Looking for opinions.
Soon my engine will be here. My concern is I will need to break the engine in. But since the Turbo kit is part of the exhaust I will need it attached to drive the car around. My Idea was to remove the Blow off valves and let the pressure bleed off. I will probably cut up a cheap air filter and zip tie it around the holes. just incase something gets sucked in.
Anyone think of a better way to handle the problem?

Also I have the ID1050x injectors and I am contemplating upgrading the fuel rails. I am just going to run 93 and I am not sure I need to upgrade. at what point should I think about ditching the factory fuel rails?


Thanks,

Good to hear your car is almost whole again! How is your engine builder recommending you break it in? That's the only opinion I'd be interested in if I was you. I doubt you need to go through the trouble of disconnecting bovs and such. Just follow their instructions. Who built it?

 

[noshine4mine]

Good to hear your car is almost whole again! How is your engine builder recommending you break it in? That's the only opinion I'd be interested in if I was you. I doubt you need to go through the trouble of disconnecting bovs and such. Just follow their instructions. Who built it?

RPG built it. Supposedly sitting at the Shipping dock waiting to head to Texas. The only instructions I got on the break in was run it 200 miles with Driven break in oil, then change to a conventional oil until I get to 1k miles then I can change over to full synthetic. Though they recommended 5w50, the original tuner/shop put in 15w50. Builder suggested 5w50 so that is what i am going to put in it.

The PDF attached is what I got from them.

 

[WildHorse]

Just take the springs out of the BOV(s).

 

[Zrussian13]

RPG built it. Supposedly sitting at the Shipping dock waiting to head to Texas. The only instructions I got on the break in was run it 200 miles with Driven break in oil, then change to a conventional oil until I get to 1k miles then I can change over to full synthetic. Though they recommended 5w50, the original tuner/shop put in 15w50. Builder suggested 5w50 so that is what i am going to put in it.

The PDF attached is what I got from them.

I'd go right off those instructions. At 200 miles the rings are seated. No 6k before that and coast on decel to help seat them. Change oil as recommended. Then enjoy. Wouldn't hurt to call them if you want to clarify exactly when you can start beating on it but I'm a firm believer of break it in the way you intent to drive it.

 

[Vegas5OH]

I have an rpg engine also, you dont need a huge break in peroid. I put break in oil in it for first start, changed it out at 250 miles with amsoil 5w50 and been ripping on it ever since. Runs great, some people break in new engines on the dyno doing pulls right away no miles.

 

[gimmie11s]

Dont bother removing wastgates, or springs, or any of that.

Do what's mentioned above.. stay out of boost for the first 500miles or so. Change to full synthetic at 1000 and let it eat.

My car is TT, just installed a built motor 1100 miles ago, no issues and I didn't overthink any of the "break in". Just stayed out of boost for a few hundred miles which was pretty easy to do. Car has enough power out of boost to move around and daily drive just fine.

 

[gimmie11s]

Forgot to mention.. I also did my "first start" on e85... rings seated just fine, no issues.

 

[Cory S]

Drive the car. Fluctuate throttle 1/4-3/4 for short bursts. Change oil at 300-500miles. Proceed to now beat the sack out of it and feed it the best dinnah she will ever see. It's broken in......

 

[Jackson1320]

Break in the engine the way you intended to use it. Don’t baby it on break in and then beat on it later.

 

[noshine4mine]

Oh Shit !!!!!!!

I am going to start tonight!!!

I will post pics of the new hotness after I get it unboxed.

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