Break-In Procedure

[SazMayo]

New to the forum. Just got a brand new 2020 GT Premium 6spd. I read the break in procedure in the manual and was just wondering what others who purchased brand new did/followed with break in. And if you didn't, did anything problematic happen? In full transparency I have ripped on it a couple of times, nothing outlandish, just a couple 3rd to 4th pulls and I imagine when other people test drove it before I purchased it beat on it a little. Other than that, just following normal break-in stuff.


**Sidenote** I noticed a lot of lifter noise/possibly injectors? Should I talk to my dealer? Thoughts?

Thanks so much all. So glad to be here and back in a Mustang.

Sponsored

 

[ice445]

The noises are normal, direct injection stuff. As for break in, I did a pretty soft one. No pulls until 1000. If I could do it again I'd just drive it how I wanted to after 500 miles or so. Just make sure it's warmed up. Engine braking in gear helps too. Dont change the oil before 3000 miles.

 

[ChitownStang]

The noises are normal, direct injection stuff. As for break in, I did a pretty soft one. No pulls until 1000. If I could do it again I'd just drive it how I wanted to after 500 miles or so. Just make sure it's warmed up. Engine braking in gear helps too. Dont change the oil before 3000 miles.

Why do you say this about not changing the oil until 3k?
I am about to do mine at 1k.. clean out any breakin metal I thought.

 

[ice445]

Why do you say this about not changing the oil until 3k?
I am about to do mine at 1k.. clean out any breakin metal I thought.

Because seating the rings is more important. Break in metal isn't as substantial as it used to be and it usually just goes to the bottom of the pan and stays there.

Just my opinion though, everyone has a different one.

 

[gmupatriot]

New to the forum. Just got a brand new 2020 GT Premium 6spd. I read the break in procedure in the manual and was just wondering what others who purchased brand new did/followed with break in. And if you didn't, did anything problematic happen? In full transparency I have ripped on it a couple of times, nothing outlandish, just a couple 3rd to 4th pulls and I imagine when other people test drove it before I purchased it beat on it a little. Other than that, just following normal break-in stuff.


**Sidenote** I noticed a lot of lifter noise/possibly injectors? Should I talk to my dealer? Thoughts?

Thanks so much all. So glad to be here and back in a Mustang.

OP, welcome to the forum.

You will get different opinions on break-in procedure. When I purchased my 2018 GT, the first 500 miles were just regular driving (mix of highway, city stop-and-go), however, after that I would rip on it every drive (once) where I would shift close to redline from 2-5 (I have the A10 transmission). I used to have oil consumption issues but after driving the car hard on occasion, the issue went away. I have 40k miles on the car as of today and it has no oil consumption issues that I can measure. I use to have the BBQ tick but I used Ceratec around 17,000 miles (2 bottles) and have not used it since because the BBQ tick went away and has stayed that way. No issues with the engine so far.

Good luck and enjoy your new pony!

 

[Veteran]

Most important thing for me has always get it up to temp.
All metal parts must expand to correct sizes so tolerances are as designed, oil is thin (up to temp)and lubricating as designed.

All my new cars and motorbikes over the years have followed same procedure.

Once up to temp , drive it as you would any vehicle. I also rip into it frequently.
Everyone has a opinion, but I have always done it this way, always had fast vehicles/bikes , never ever used oil, and never had any engine issues whatsoever. We’re talking perhaps 40 new engines or more.
Let’s hope my luck doesn’t change haha.
And fwiw, I always change oil at 50% of specified mileage interval.
Im told it’s a waste of money, but keep doing it.

 

[NGOT8R]

I‘ve been ripping on mine ever since it reached 471 miles on the odometer. I’m tuned on E85 and nitrous and my car has been WOT too many times to count and even recently put on the Dyno (all within 2500 miles on the odometer). I‘ve added one quart of oil at about the 1900 mile mark and the level has been holding steady ever since.

 

[VisceralSyn]

Got my 17, in September of 16. Had 9 miles on the odometer, didn't do none of the traditional break-in. Once she got up to temp, drove her like I stole her, eryday, all-day. Changed oil regularly every 5K mi's. Has always drank a quart between oil changes. Currently sittin at 54K miles...

 

[gadgtfreek]

I personally don't think varied driving and no drag racing for 500 miles is a bad idea, not sure it helps either. While many obsess here, many just buy a car and drive it and don't care, and only do things when a dash light tells them to. Those cars can last just fine, and cars that were babied can have a failure.

One thing after owning a turbo Honda, and now this car, I fully believe in warming it up. On this car, I shift at 3k or below until cylinder head temps are at "normal". If someone wants to go for a "ride" that has never been in the Stang before, I warm it up first, they can wait.

 

[GreenS550]

I remember buying my '19 Bullitt with about 22 miles on the odometer. Who knows how those 22 dealership miles were put on. If in test driving or drag racing? Who knows. When I bought it I varied the speed and load until 500 miles, as Ford recommended. Then I redlined it regularly. At 5,000 miles I put a Whipple that made 675 RWHP and drag raced it with slicks until 7,300 miles at which time I sold it. The ran flawlessly the entire time.
Great car. Miss it. But, then again, the Mach 1 is coming in May!

 

[Strokerswild]

Make sure oil level is proper, bring everything to operating temp and drive it. Vary speeds, loads, and RPM frequently. Rinse and repeat. Don't be afraid to let it eat.

It's never good to baby a new engine, most of all you want piston rings to seat ASAP or you might end up with an oil burner.

 

[GregO]

https://www.mullenixracingengines.com/how-to-break-in-your-engine

Bike motor or Car motor, this link cuts right to the meat of getting rings to seal near 100%.

 

[Veteran]

Lycoming Engines is the world's premier manufacturer of piston aviation engines. For more than 90 years, Lycoming has designed, manufactured, tested and provided worldwide support for its portfolio of now more than 700 FAA Type Certified piston aviation engine products.

I have seen firsthand what happens when you do and don’t run in a piston engine correctly.
Read below, it is from lycoming themselves. After 90 years in business, I’d guess they know their shit haha.

https://www.lycoming.com/content/hard-facts-about-engine-break

 

[mjhpadi]

Blackstone Labs will analyze your used oil and give you info about what's going on with your engine .
It is well worth the cost for the info and peace of mind.

 

[subject617]

For the first 1000km i didnt really wind it past 4500rpm and only gave it 60%ish throttle. up to 1500km i peaked at around 6000rpm, since that (which is about 1000mi) i use all the tach. Obviously only when warmed up, until that, 3000ish is my "redline".

Am i too worried/scared/careful? Probably yes, but i keep my cars for more than 3years.
Did it work? Well, i cant tell you, has not blown up yet. So it was good for 3.000km (for now)

I think the biggest poison you can give your engine is full throttle / high rpm when its cold.
There might be a reason the prop planes warm their oil before takeoff, they dont like seizing a block or throwing a rod while climbing at the end of a runway.

Sponsored