brake "coolshims" & caliper cooler for hdpe

[ihasnostang]

Just someone on the outside looking to get a EB performance pack in the future for occasional trackdays. from what i've seen on this forum it looks like those brakes/fluid will overheat during a track day. Has anyone come across these "coolshims" products that transfer heat away from the pads. granted ones shown below aren't the coolshims product but similar product for a motorcycle since the coolshims ones are only available for a few cars. anyone with a PP mustang is there even room between the outside of the caliper and inner rim?

https://www.hsbkracing.com/images/detailed/10/bpr01g-brake-plate-radiator.jpg

the second is a heatsink for the fluid very close to the caliper and it just goes between the banjo bolt and caliper (also for motorcycle) anyone got pictures where the brake line/banjo bolt goes into the caliper? all it really is is a boss with threads on both ends and some fins.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NIC...ts-For-Husqvarna-TE-TC-TX-FE/32919179484.html

Places like Protolabs can auto quote based off a cad model, CNC/ship these in 2-3 days but the first picture design would be more expensive to cnc since they have solid fins unlike the sheetmetal ones on coolshims. http://www.coolshims.com/coolshims-technology.php

Sponsored

 

[1 old racer]

They look great in theory. Just remember you got to get cool air to the caliper so plumbing cool air ducts will have to be a must, or the devices will not work. And will they clear your wheels?

 

[sigintel]

Keep it simple:
SRF brake fluid
Always 1/3 usable pad thickness or more (never start track day below 1/2 usable and check wear rate during track day).
Brake ducts to rotors AND calipers if room allows for second duct set even if smaller. If no inboard inner rotor intake (base GT), rotor duct blows outboard and slightly forward across rotor forward outer exhaust (these rotors exhaust air radial from high pressure wheel hub center to low pressure back side wheel leading barrel.
Titanium shims are the only high temperature safe and heat cycle durable insulating shims.


Details:
Buy two quarts of SRF and replace your brake fluid. Bleed brakes after changing pads to check for air, Bleed brakes substantially to change over fresh fluid in caliper once a year (SRF), or every 4-6 months with hygroscopic (water absorbing, anything NOT SRF) brake fluids.

Never run pads below 1/3 usable thickness as the material thickness helps insulate the caliper/piston/boots against rotor heat.
Just ask all the guys that cooked off their piston boots... (includes me, lol)
Once boots are cooked off, the piston surface(wetted by brake fluid) holds abrasive dust(ceramic brake pad material) that can cake back into inner seal when changing pads (clean piston *before* retracting lol). Piston steel can also corrode and becomes porous which wears the inner seal. Either one can lead to brake fluid weeping by and enough will burn on a race hot rotor.

Get some brake ducts. They are hella cheap insurance and will greatly extend your pad life. Your wheel bearings will last longer without all the grease cooked out as well (killed 2 on my 2015).

If you are going to push hard below 1/2 usable thickness, go with race grade titanium backing shims that act as insulators but are durable at high temperature and high heat cycles: this is what race teams use.


Regarding concept parts:
Uhhh...having done on vehicle failure reproduction legal support work for Tier 1: Do not risking testing anything brake related that does not have 100,000+ hrs testing in widespread adoption in racing or OEM service.

The caliper to brake line connection is super critical and subject to brutal shock and cyclic loading and heat cycling. No way would I put that aluminum 'line cooler' piece right in the middle of a highly engineered high pressure/high temp/high heat cycle interface.

The 'brake plate radiator' is a bullshit design - it would transfer more heat from pad into piston than a Titanium shim less than half that thickness. That bolt on heat sink shit is 2-3" away and I expect that aluminum warps out of good thermal contact with steel, or it cracks due to the modulus gradient and difference in thermal expansion of the two pieces. Titanium insulating shims are far superior in thermal isolation, lighter, proven, reliable, durable, safer.

Using screws in dissimilar materials subject to high temp heat cycling anywhere near the pad/rotor interface is hella risky. Have seen FOD/interference pad/rotor kill people at the track.

I seriously doubt anyone doing tech inspection would ok those if pointed out.

Sponsored