BMR uneven drop

[sculptor310]

I installed a set of BMR springs along with FFRP dampers. My front passenger side not rides 3/4" lower than my front driver side...

...the springs appear to be seated properly. The advice I'm getting from mechanics is to check with the spring manufacturer.

Anyone else have this issue? If so, how did you resolve it?

Thanks!

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[JOKER M1]

Did you measure before you did the swap, did you clock the bushings

 

[rayban1]

Clock the bushings. Just installed BMR 089/082 kit, took it to get alignment and have the bushing clocked. Sits perfect and rides great...Surprised how many installers don't clock the bushings on these mustangs. I read a lot of post on here learning that it has to be done.

 

[whalesalad]

1. When you measure the height, make sure you are measuring from the top of the wheel arch to the center of the wheel... not the ground.

2. When I had my alignment done, I asked to have all of the components with bushings loosened and then re-torqued in the alignment rack. This is what people refer to as "clocking the bushings".

A lot of the bushings on our vehicles are designed with only so much range-of-motion when they are torqued down. They often have little teeth in the rubber etc... that grip the component they are seated against. When you adjust the suspension geometry, you are effectively preloading those bushings and they are starting off in flexion vs. being neutral on the ground. This binding can sometimes cause uneven appearances or even unpredictable driving characteristics.

So... long story short, find a reputable, higher-end alignment shop (you need to get the car aligned anyway) and ask them to loosen/re-torque all suspension bolts that are going through a bushing. Control arms, links, etc...

The tech who did mine mentioned that as he was loosening things he definitely heard things settling and popping into place. He also used a paint pen on all the bolts when finished. Real good work!

It's like taking your car to the chiropractor lol.

 

[sculptor310]

I've had two shops now clock the bushing per the instructions posted here and the drop in the back is still uneven. One side is an inch higher than the other in the rear and subsequently the front is off as well. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

 

[kent0464]

1. When you measure the height, make sure you are measuring from the top of the wheel arch to the center of the wheel... not the ground.

2. When I had my alignment done, I asked to have all of the components with bushings loosened and then re-torqued in the alignment rack. This is what people refer to as "clocking the bushings".

A lot of the bushings on our vehicles are designed with only so much range-of-motion when they are torqued down. They often have little teeth in the rubber etc... that grip the component they are seated against. When you adjust the suspension geometry, you are effectively preloading those bushings and they are starting off in flexion vs. being neutral on the ground. This binding can sometimes cause uneven appearances or even unpredictable driving characteristics.

So... long story short, find a reputable, higher-end alignment shop (you need to get the car aligned anyway) and ask them to loosen/re-torque all suspension bolts that are going through a bushing. Control arms, links, etc...

The tech who did mine mentioned that as he was loosening things he definitely heard things settling and popping into place. He also used a paint pen on all the bolts when finished. Real good work!

It's like taking your car to the chiropractor lol.

This is really good advice, in reality when doing suspension work you never tighten the nuts and bolt until the suspension is at ride height with weight on the suspension.
I know you said that the springs appear to be seated properly, but that 3/4” is the approx thickness of the spring isolators, so I’m going to guess that one of them is not in the pocket at the top or bottom.

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