BMR CB005 Install

[Ghost50]

@dead_inside

I went back to look at my previous post when I installed to help my memory. Because the DIY shop I was at didn’t have the correct bearing press and because I forgot the alignment sleeves we did the CB005, vertical links and springs and stopped. We’d run out of time and since the cradle had to get loosened up again we waited on the 762 until the LCAs went in.

When buttoning everything up with the 005 install we couldn’t figure out why the driver side would not sit flush inside the cup. There was maybe a 1/16” - 1/8” gap. Turns out because my cradle wasn’t aligned correctly that’s why it wouldn’t sit flush.

So that’s why I highly recommend doing it all at once. So that way you know you’re getting everything in and aligned correctly so you don’t have to drop it again.

As an aside - I also highly recommend the BK081 kit. The bearings coupled with 005 and 762 (and Steeda diff bushings) really make the car feel solid.

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[dead_inside]

I really appreciate all of the input gents. I think I'm just going to try one side rear, then front, and repeat on the other side for all the kits just working through the instructions. Sounds like where the cradle is sitting from factory will be the deciding factor on the ease of install, maybe I will get lucky. Taking from the tips provided in this thread, I will remove the rear wheels but leave the exhaust in and just take my time. I want to be prepared but not overthink it. Thank you again for sharing your time and experience, cheers!

 

[JCFoster]

For me. I put the back of the car on stands and a floor jack under the differential. After loosening all four main bolts, I made sure not to remove all four bolts at the same time and just take one out at a time. I used a small short piece of rebar to move the rear subframe around. It’s moves rather easily. I too went slow not to get anything to far out of whack. I too left the exhaust alone, just need a long extension for the rear bolts. From other post, it seems there’s always one bolt that wants to fight you and for me it was the last one, right front. It felt like it didn’t want line up with the threads. Like it was binding up by hand tightening. Don’t recommend it, but I got tired of playing with it and just tightened it and it went right in.

As far as the factory sub alignment or cradle, it really doesn’t matter. The four main bolt holes are pretty big and after getting the alignment dowel in you’ll probably have to wiggle the cradle to get that first bolt aligned and started. You also won’t have to lower the rear cradle very much, maybe 3/8” or so. Just enough to slide that top piece in. And I think they mention it in the directions to use the jack to lift the cradle back up into position and not use the bolts to pull it up when your done.

I did the cb010 and scb766. And like some, I did the cb010 first then realized I probably needed to do the alignment dowels and had to do it again.

 

[DRKHORS]

... From other post, it seems there’s always one bolt that wants to fight you and for me it was the last one, right front. It felt like it didn’t want line up with the threads. Like it was binding up by hand tightening. Very true! Mine was the passenger side rear.

And I think they mention it in the directions to use the jack to lift the cradle back up into position and not use the bolts to pull it up when your done... That's a good point that I did not reference. This will also help keep from cross threading as well since you won't have the weight of the sub-frame causing resistance.

 

[DRKHORS]

Finally got a chance to get my alignment done. After having to move the rear cradle to get it centered, I knew the rear specs would be off. I was hopeful that my front camber would be relatively close to where I wanted it (-1.25 to -1.50). As you can see from the initial specs, left side camber was in good shape at -1.26; however, the right side was at -.88. The shop was able to get the front toe within requested specs (.02 to .05), and was able to get the rear end within requested specs as well (-1.50 camber and .10 to .12 toe, thrust angle 0.00).

Questions: Is it worth trying to get my front camber equal on both sides (-1.25 to -1.50)? While I don't track my car, I can't rule out one day I may put it on the 1/4 mile just to see what it will do. Since I very likely won't be doing any road track, I don't see the need to invest in camber plates. Are quality camber bolts (BMR, Steeda) reliable for spirited driving and should I expect to see any issues with them holding front camber to spec once set? Last option would be to have the struts slotted, but I thing I'd rather do camber bolts if I decide to get more camber out of the front.

Thanks in advance for any input on this!

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