Best cost effective diff bushing replacement?

[HoosierDaddy]

APA total car care in Queen Creek. They’ve done all my maintenance and other issues on my car.

Thanks!

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[Metz302]

Dude, its not fragile. Its a mass market 400 horsepower boat of a car. There are over 670,000 produced, a good chunk of those are on the roads still, and they get driven HARD by a all sorts of goons and they hold up fine.

Please please please, launch the car sometimes. You're missing out if you're babying it trying to keep it from breaking. The car wants you to launch it hard. Do it. DO IT.

The shift forks were a problem for a while on the refresh MY18 cars, but you're fine with your year.

Clutches will last over 50k miles but they're a wear item and you just budget a couple grand for a new one and labor when it does finally go and you're taken care. If you're that worried, do a new clutch while you're in there fixing the diff bushings because you'll save on labor since the exhaust and driveshaft have to come out to drop the subframe anyway.

Now, your bushings are shot because you have a '17 and that's just how long those last. Front control arms may be shot too. Check your rear large rubber control arm bushing on the rear control arms. They don't last very long either. Might as well do that since the rear subframe has to come out for the diff carrier bushings.

If you want a stock like ride for another 7 or so years, get those Kelltrac ones J17GT linked, because they're the only stock like replacement I've seen which isn't poly (noise). I paid like 2000 for a new subframe to get new bushings and would have done those for a lot less if I had known. I put steeda (red) reinforcement pucks on my new OEM subframe to help them last, but I have more diff noise that stock now and I'm not sure I love it. In my case it suits the car's needs, but its not OEM like since I have other reinforcements, in total they contribute to transmitting more noise.

Should I worry about shipping times with KellTrac? Upon reading more on their website it seems like their attitude is “you get it when you get it, be patient” but I would like to do this install ASAP. Not gonna be thrilled if it takes weeks for me to get them.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Should I worry about shipping times with KellTrac? Upon reading more on their website it seems like their attitude is “you get it when you get it, be patient” but I would like to do this install ASAP. Not gonna be thrilled if it takes weeks for me to get them.

well that sucks, but your other option for OEM style bushings is new complete subframe from ford for 2k. It hurts but you can do that in a shorter predictable timeframe.

 

[Metz302]

well that sucks, but your other option for OEM style bushings is new complete subframe from ford for 2k. It hurts but you can do that in a shorter predictable timeframe.

I’ve been driving on a torn bushing for a year and a half, it’ll be fine for a few more weeks lol, I’m just curious if I’m gonna have to wait a while for my bushings from Kelltrac. I should’ve just bought them on lethal.

 

[NGOT8R]

Steeda does offer a replacement kit that Regis s the factory shells.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4...G74t4nMansiDHJE3alhG0OmjYZQt3ppC4wqc7L7EEYIko

 

[Coyotebawl]

MMR has a offering as well for the bushings


https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1597

 

[Metz302]

MMR has a offering as well for the bushings


https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1597

Dang it. I already bought the kelltrac ones.

 

[NightmareMoon]

The steedas are poly, much stiffer and more nosie.

the MMRs are rubber with thick steel centers and so thats not exactly OEM but at least theres some amount of rubber.

 

[Metz302]

The steedas are poly, much stiffer and more nosie.

the MMRs are rubber with thick steel centers and so thats not exactly OEM but at least theres some amount of rubber.

I’m happy with the kelltrac ones, I just don’t want to wait super long. Lol

 

[Metz302]

The steedas are poly, much stiffer and more nosie.

the MMRs are rubber with thick steel centers and so thats not exactly OEM but at least theres some amount of rubber.

Is it possible my torn bushings are the cause for my clunking over small bumps in the rear?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Is it possible my torn bushings are the cause for my clunking over small bumps in the rear?

Yes but it might not be the bushings you’re aware of. My 16 at 100k miles needed a lot of bushings.

Could be shock upper mounts, shocks themselves, swaybars, any of the bushings in the rear, or a few other things. I dont recommend owning a mn S550 chassis older than about 50k miles if you dont like replacing suspension parts.

 

[Metz302]

Yes but it might not be the bushings you’re aware of. My 16 at 100k miles needed a lot of bushings.

Could be shock upper mounts, shocks themselves, swaybars, any of the bushings in the rear, or a few other things. I dont recommend owning a mn S550 chassis older than about 50k miles if you dont like replacing suspension parts.

Yeah I just had my rear lower control arms on my Mustang (65k miles) about 3 months ago. They told me all my other bushings and stuff looked good. It was clunking before and after. Also look at this thread I just found too. Replaced my shocks and shock mounts couple months ago as well.

 

[NGOT8R]

How about your sway bar end links? I wanna say the torque spec on those is 59 ft-lbs. If they’re not tight enough, they can cause a clunking sound.

 

[NightmareMoon]

How about your sway bar end links? I wanna say the torque spec on those is 59 ft-lbs. If they’re not tight enough, they can cause a clunking sound.

Yeah thats the most common suspect. At his mileage could be shocks or shock mounts too.

 

[Metz302]

Yeah thats the most common suspect. At his mileage could be shocks or shock mounts too.

Those were just replaced like 5k miles ago..

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