Best cost effective diff bushing replacement?

[Metz302]

Hi everyone. My driver side rear diff bushing is torn and has been for a while, I haven’t been driving it hard in the slightest, just to and from work on the highway. The only thing I’m curious about is why don’t I have any noises/etc from the bushing? It’s torn all the way around the bolt.

I’m looking for the best option when it comes to fixing it. It’s paranoia constantly thinking of it but it’s time to do something about it. Note: I likely won’t be doing this project myself since it’s 110+ degrees in Arizona during this time of year and don’t have a garage. What’s the best way to go through this?

I had a diff insert bushing kit from Steeda but returned it bc of reviews of NVH and bolts snapping? What’s my best option? I don’t want to spend more than I have to I just want it taken care of the right way.

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[NGOT8R]

I have the Steeda diff. bushing kit with all black bushings, their diff. bracket, Ultimate STH Kit drag race motor mounts and an aluminum driveshaft. NVH is very low in my car (about a 2 on a scale of 1-10). I do run their through bolt kit. I have about 30-40 launches and 1/4 mile passes on the setup and everything is holding up very well.

Note: To do it right will require dropping or lowering the subframe a considerable amount.

 

[Metz302]

I have the Steeda diff. bushing kit with all black bushings, their diff. bracket, Ultimate STH Kit drag race motor mounts and an aluminum driveshaft. NVH is very low in my car (about a 2 on a scale of 1-10). I do run their through bolt kit. I have about 30-40 launches and 1/4 mile passes on the setup and everything is holding up very well.

Note: To do it right will require dropping or lowering the subframe a considerable amount.

Do the diff bushing inserts work? Or do I need to replace them with an actual bushing? I’m aware you can’t buy OE replacements.

 

[NGOT8R]

Do the diff bushing inserts work? Or do I need to replace them with an actual bushing? I’m aware you can’t buy OE replacements.

Short of completely removing the torn bushings, installing the pucks over top of them is a good fix. If possible, windshield urethane sealer injected into the tears before the pucks would be even better, but if not, the pucks should serve you well. Again, I would recommend the through bolt kit and upgraded hardware for extra peace of mind.

 

[Metz302]

Short of completely removing the torn bushings, installing the pucks over top of them is a good fix. If possible, windshield urethane sealer injected into the tears before the pucks would be even better, but if not, the pucks should serve you well. Again, I would recommend the through bolt kit and upgraded hardware for extra peace of mind.

Is that an option down the line to upgrade the bolts? Isn’t the through bolt upgrade like $400? Haven’t looked. The inserts seem easy enough to do myself for now. I don’t ever launch the car or do hard pulls so anything might seem better atp

 

[NGOT8R]

Is that an option down the line to upgrade the bolts? Isn’t the through bolt upgrade like $400? Haven’t looked. The inserts seem easy enough to do myself for now. I don’t ever launch the car or do hard pulls so anything might seem better atp

If you don’t intend to ever do hard launches, the standard bolt kit should suffice. If you do decide to do the through bolts, I want to say they’re around $150-$180.

 

[s550_kenny]

Mine was a little torn on the driver side before I ended up getting the steeda kit and installing the red ones. I didn't get any NVH from them, and that's with vertical links, sway bars, subframe lockout kit. Then again, the car is catless so your mileage may vary.

I don't drag race the car, it's mostly road race so we'll see how they hold up. I opted to install the included 10.9 bolts along with the spacer/sleeve for the bushings from a forum member who sells them.

 

[J17GT]

This is probably the best option for you. If these were around when I did the inserts, I would have done them instead.

https://www.kelltrac.com/S550-S650-Mustang-Differential-Bushing-Upgrade-Kit-RUBBER_p_112.html

 

[Metz302]

This is probably the best option for you. If these were around when I did the inserts, I would have done them instead.

https://www.kelltrac.com/S550-S650-Mustang-Differential-Bushing-Upgrade-Kit-RUBBER_p_112.html

So these are an option for complete subframe removal and bushing replacement? I just don’t want to go through this again. What a headache.

 

[Metz302]

Mine was a little torn on the driver side before I ended up getting the steeda kit and installing the red ones. I didn't get any NVH from them, and that's with vertical links, sway bars, subframe lockout kit. Then again, the car is catless so your mileage may vary.

I don't drag race the car, it's mostly road race so we'll see how they hold up. I opted to install the included 10.9 bolts along with the spacer/sleeve for the bushings from a forum member who sells them.

Did you do all 4 red ones? Curious if I can just work the bad two for now where the bad bushing is.

 

[Metz302]

If you don’t intend to ever do hard launches, the standard bolt kit should suffice. If you do decide to do the through bolts, I want to say they’re around $150-$180.

I’ve owned my car for over 3 years now and I have never launched the car, not even once lol.

I’ve just heard how fragile the stock clutch is and can shatter doing that fairly easily and decided against it. Lol

 

[J17GT]

So these are an option for complete subframe removal and bushing replacement? I just don’t want to go through this again. What a headache.

Yes. Removing the subframe isn't all that bad really.

 

[s550_kenny]

Did you do all 4 red ones? Curious if I can just work the bad two for now where the bad bushing is.

I did all 4. I didn't have to remove my subframe, just drop it for the side I was working on. Even with the front bolts which I heard were a real bitch to get in, I completely removed the front subframe bolts, and loosened the rears, and the pucks slipped in. Thats with a 2021 car with the heat shield around the fuel tank too.

 

[Metz302]

Yes. Removing the subframe isn't all that bad really.

In terms of labor of a shop doing it, you think the $1000 is in the range for just the labor? Seems reasonable to me.

I just figured I’d be up in that $2k+ area and that’s where I don’t want to be. A simple fix should not cost that much.

 

[J17GT]

In terms of labor of a shop doing it, you think the $1000 is in the range for just the labor? Seems reasonable to me.

I just figured I’d be up in that $2k+ area and that’s where I don’t want to be. A simple fix should not cost that much.

No idea... a buddy and I had my cradle out in under two hours and that was the first time ever doing it. There is a video link on the Kelltrac site and the bushing job does not look terrible with the right tools. Maybe another hour or so to swap bushing.

I can't see how this is a $1000 job unless the shop charges insane labor rates.

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