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Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

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Edwin

Edwin

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Hi great post and info. So the passenger side wheel well is the way to go to run the live wire for your amp you are saying. Does the wheel have to come off?
The passenger side will be the way to go. It will get you into the engine bay on the side that the battery is on and is undoubtedly easier to get to.


As Sruss5 said, you do not have to take the wheel off if you don't want to but it would make it much easier to get to everything if you did.
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Does anyone have a picture of the power wire connected to the battery and how it's routed around to the firewall? I really want ideas so I can connect my power wire...
 

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Does anyone have a picture of the power wire connected to the battery and how it's routed around to the firewall? I really want ideas so I can connect my power wire...
Not my pictures, but I had them saved from another thread on this forum. The power wire hooks up on the positive terminal, you need to completely take off the nut, then slide on the power cord and re screw on the nut.
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Hooking up to the fuse box seems way easier than connecting directly to the battery as I had originally planned. The thing that concerns me from the pic above is where the power wire enters the wheel well. Couldn't the wire chafe with the metal and short out?
 

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Hooking up to the fuse box seems way easier than connecting directly to the battery as I had originally planned. The thing that concerns me from the pic above is where the power wire enters the wheel well. Couldn't the wire chafe with the metal and short out?
Yes you are correct. I have mine wrapped in plastic wire loom which came with my amp install kit. I think it should do the trick.
 

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That a closed box or ported? I had a ported box in my other car, it was insane. Like overwhelming bass. I was thinking about doing two JL 10"s in a closed box if I have enough room after I mount up my 10lb bottle. O_O Think it would be too much?
 

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Hooking up to battery

what are you guys tapping into on the control box. I don't see an easy way to tap the battery positive terminal. But is it safe to use the control box without running the risk of blowing a major fuse? Anyone have pics of what they tapped to get their power. :kickrock: thanks in advance
 

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I know a lot of people here have been using the bolt between the rear seats as the ground. My question is this.... How would you connect the terminal from your ground wire to that large bolt. It's thick and its a 15mm bolt. None of the terminals I have would work on such a large bolt.
 
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Edwin

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I know a lot of people here have been using the bolt between the rear seats as the ground. My question is this.... How would you connect the terminal from your ground wire to that large bolt. It's thick and its a 15mm bolt. None of the terminals I have would work on such a large bolt.
I stripped the end of the power wire about 2 inches back and made a loop out of the wire itself. It's been working well.
 

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Is there any way to use the harness where the factory subwoofer would plug in, instead of cutting into the harness under the shelf?
 

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Is there any way to use the harness where the factory subwoofer would plug in, instead of cutting into the harness under the shelf?
In the base models without the sub, the wiring for the Shaker sub is not present. The only harness containing speaker wire will be the harness under the shelf. From what I've read, even if you had the stock sub, the stock harness is somewhat lacking. Apparently the power wire for the stock sub is really thin gauge as well.
 

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In the base models without the sub, the wiring for the Shaker sub is not present. The only harness containing speaker wire will be the harness under the shelf. From what I've read, even if you had the stock sub, the stock harness is somewhat lacking. Apparently the power wire for the stock sub is really thin gauge as well.
OK, thanks. I just saw that there was a black module with an open connector. I thought that maybe the wires in the populated connector were the speaker wires. It would look neater with the splices behind the trunk liner.
 
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I agree, that would be a lot neater. The wiring diagrams suggest that none of the wiring is there. However, I'd be curious to know what's in there if it is located around where the Shaker would normally be.
 

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I agree, that would be a lot neater. The wiring diagrams suggest that none of the wiring is there. However, I'd be curious to know what's in there if it is located around where the Shaker would normally be.
I guess when I have some time I'll ohm out the wires on that connector and see if they are the speaker wires. While I'm doing that, I think I'll check the pins on the open connector to see if they pass though the module. It would be nice to get an empty connector and just plug into the open plug on the module. Probably wishful thinking.
 
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Absolutely. Not going to hurt anything to test it and find out. I'm sure a lot of guys would appreciate that info too.
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