Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

[PatrickHenninger]

You powered an amplifier with a wire tapped to a fuse??? With what gauge wire???

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[kenstewart2005]

It's pretty common with those types of powered subs for people to do fuse taps. I don't advocate it which is why I mentioned to him how easy it is to run power from the battery.

 

[PatrickHenninger]

It's pretty common with those types of powered subs for people to do fuse taps. I don't advocate it which is why I mentioned to him how easy it is to run power from the battery.

Yeah, running thin wire to a fuse isn't adequate for an amplifier, period.

 

[ponie1992]

I think that the general consensus is that the factory sub/amp combo is pretty weak sounding and would not be worth the effort. I have the 401a package and have upgraded from the factory sub as there wasn't enough low end to satisfy me.

I am not a basshead, but when you know in a given song that there is supposed to be low frequencies and you can't hear/feel them, it's disappointing!

Did you upgrade both sub and amp? Are you still using the factory enclosure?

 

[shahram72]

Hey ponie1992. This is Bob Smith!

 

[ponie1992]

Hey ponie1992. This is Bob Smith!

What's up, Bob!

 

[mumbles]

Did you upgrade both sub and amp? Are you still using the factory enclosure?

I have a custom zenclosures box with two Acoustic Elegance 12" subs each driven by a JBL MS-A500 amp.

 

[sandpiper]

Anyone have a picture of a rockford powered sub installed? I dont want booming base just something to actually play the low end a bit

This is the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 self powered sub. Sounds great, small footprint in the trunk.

 

[T-S550-X]

It's pretty common with those types of powered subs for people to do fuse taps. I don't advocate it which is why I mentioned to him how easy it is to run power from the battery.

Hey sorry guys, I don't get to surf here everyday so I just saw all the updated threads.

I want to say I'm running either 12ga or 16ga wire for power. The power was being pulled from the fuse box. We are gonna move it directly to the battery next to correct for the fuse issue. I'm hoping the amp will turn off and on correctly once running to the battery directly.

I am hoping the amp will turn on and off correctly after that. If my amp is suffering some issue, I may end up buying a newer powered sub in the same style.

 

[PatrickHenninger]

Hey sorry guys, I don't get to surf here everyday so I just saw all the updated threads.

I want to say I'm running either 12ga or 16ga wire for power. The power was being pulled from the fuse box. We are gonna move it directly to the battery next to correct for the fuse issue. I'm hoping the amp will turn off and on correctly once running to the battery directly.

I am hoping the amp will turn on and off correctly after that. If my amp is suffering some issue, I may end up buying a newer powered sub in the same style.

That wire isn't thick enough. 8-10ga would be better.

 

[T-S550-X]

That wire isn't thick enough. 8-10ga would be better.

Good to know!

 

[kenstewart2005]

Hey sorry guys, I don't get to surf here everyday so I just saw all the updated threads.

I want to say I'm running either 12ga or 16ga wire for power. The power was being pulled from the fuse box. We are gonna move it directly to the battery next to correct for the fuse issue. I'm hoping the amp will turn off and on correctly once running to the battery directly.

I am hoping the amp will turn on and off correctly after that. If my amp is suffering some issue, I may end up buying a newer powered sub in the same style.

The power wire will not have any effect on it turning off and on, it just supplies power. You need three things: power, ground, and signal. The signal source is what will turn your system on and off which is where your remote comes in UNLESS you have a powered sub that has an auto-type turn on feature. The signal source in these set ups typically come from tapping in to your speaker wires so when you turn your key on and your audio system powers up, your powered sub turns on and same for when you turn your key off.

Agree with Patrick, need to start with 8ga at least for the power wire for safety purposes. As you've seen in mine and a couple other posts from others, the RF powered set up is really nice and when I installed it, it was the easiest audio install ever and you do not need a remote wire at all. See my post for install details. I bought the RF 10" powered sub enclosure and the amp kit for $177 shipped, fantastic value. The enclosure is MDF, not plastic, and this 10" is very good for rounding out the system. Now, if you're wanting sloppy boom, then don't get this one, but if you want good punchy bass that helps you feel the music and bring the low end then this is a fantastic deal.

 

[T-S550-X]

Ok Gents, my best friend came back into town and he rectified everything. He installed a 10ga power line from the battery directly to the sub amp. We used the existing wire we ran for power previously and turned it into a remote wire via the interior fuse box.

The noise I was hearing previously was due to something going awry with the auto detect switch on the amp. Wiring the remote means I can turn the auto detect switch off. No more loud feedback noise when the car is off. (I have to give this sub and amp a break for being 11 years old at least.)

He really had a heck of a time getting the power wire through the firewall on the passenger side until he removed the battery and battery box. There was NO NEED to remove the wheel and fender liner. The grommet is directly below the battery box. Once the box was out, access to the grommet was a breeze!

The sound is awesome! As before, this simple setup really provides all of the missing bottom end sound. I can't recommend it enough. To finish, I bought some automotive wrap from Amazon which looks just like the factory wrap. The wiring we added looks stock now.

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