AutoBlip Modification

[Bigsky gt350]

Remember that the PCM uses 5vdc for signals, 12vdc will be bad. And inside the 5 volts is a good and bad range, 0-.5 is bad, .5-4.5 is good and 4.5-5 is bad. That's the way the PCM determines what is a good or bad voltage range.

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[MrCincinnati]

I am looking for opinions on how best to do it. Not me saying what I want to accomplish and then everyone go "just do this because this is what I do and what I prefer even though it has nothing to do with what you stated your end goal was".

Ok so let's try and solve the problem with the end goal in mind - if you're still shopping for viable solutions.

1: replace the need to heel/toe
2: do so using the autoblip device
3: only have it on when you want it on
4: mount/install the autoblip device out of sight/reach

Am I missing anything?

If that's not the goal and the goal is actually
1: blip the throttle with a button on the steering wheel.

Then let's approach that goal and analyze any possible issues. If you mount a throttle blip button on your steering wheel you'll have to take a few things into consideration.

- For safety it would need to be located in a position that would prevent you from accidentally hitting it when steering/shifting hands (if you shift your hands) or otherwise accidentally touching parts of the wheel.
- It would need to be mounted on the left side of the wheel since your right hand would not be able to get back to the wheel quick enough
- In a track day situation, you'll be heavy on the brakes when using this - meaning you'll need to have a firm grip on the wheel, you'll be sacrificing some of your ability to grip the wheel because now you have to use one hand to both grip the wheel and reach for a blip button - and hit it precisely when you want.

If that's all good with you, you're good to go.

However if having a button to blip the throttle on the steering wheel isn't your main goal, and instead the first list represents your goals (as stated in your original post) - perhaps leave the blip button out of the equation and figure out a way to mount an arm button for the autoblip.

That would meet your goals, it would also allow the autoblip device to perform it's functions as designed, and it would prevent you from having to time your blip/adjust your grip etc.

If I'm completely off base - sorry I've wasted your time man.

 

[Tat2bass]

Ok so let's try and solve the problem with the end goal in mind - if you're still shopping for viable solutions.

1: replace the need to heel/toe
2: do so using the autoblip device
3: only have it on when you want it on
4: mount/install the autoblip device out of sight/reach

Am I missing anything?

If that's not the goal and the goal is actually
1: blip the throttle with a button on the steering wheel.

Then let's approach that goal and analyze any possible issues. If you mount a throttle blip button on your steering wheel you'll have to take a few things into consideration.

- For safety it would need to be located in a position that would prevent you from accidentally hitting it when steering/shifting hands (if you shift your hands) or otherwise accidentally touching parts of the wheel.
- It would need to be mounted on the left side of the wheel since your right hand would not be able to get back to the wheel quick enough
- In a track day situation, you'll be heavy on the brakes when using this - meaning you'll need to have a firm grip on the wheel, you'll be sacrificing some of your ability to grip the wheel because now you have to use one hand to both grip the wheel and reach for a blip button - and hit it precisely when you want.

If that's all good with you, you're good to go.

However if having a button to blip the throttle on the steering wheel isn't your main goal, and instead the first list represents your goals (as stated in your original post) - perhaps leave the blip button out of the equation and figure out a way to mount an arm button for the autoblip.

That would meet your goals, it would also allow the autoblip device to perform it's functions as designed, and it would prevent you from having to time your blip/adjust your grip etc.

If I'm completely off base - sorry I've wasted your time man.

No, thank you for the reply and trying to help. But you know what I mean I'm sure about how people here ask for help or an opinion on how to do something, and instead people tell them stuff that doesn't pertain.

But I was planning on mounting the button to the back of the left side of the steering wheel. I see you have a 392 Charger, I have a '16 Scatpack as my daily driver. So you know how the channel change button is on the back left side of the steering wheel? I was thinking of mounting it like that. So I can keep my hands at 9/3 and easily reach a finger back to press it while still maintaining a firm grip on the steering wheel

Remember that the PCM uses 5vdc for signals, 12vdc will be bad. And inside the 5 volts is a good and bad range, 0-.5 is bad, .5-4.5 is good and 4.5-5 is bad. That's the way the PCM determines what is a good or bad voltage range.

Yeah, saw that afterwards that it's only the '17's that use the 12v now. Mine is a '16. So guessing the clutch interlock wire is something I'd have to use, cause I don't imagine there will be many other similar voltage sources. I at first assumed it would be 12v like nearly every other system in a car.

 

[MrCincinnati]

No, thank you for the reply and trying to help. But you know what I mean I'm sure about how people here ask for help or an opinion on how to do something, and instead people tell them stuff that doesn't pertain.

But I was planning on mounting the button to the back of the left side of the steering wheel. I see you have a 392 Charger, I have a '16 Scatpack as my daily driver. So you know how the channel change button is on the back left side of the steering wheel? I was thinking of mounting it like that. So I can keep my hands at 9/3 and easily reach a finger back to press it while still maintaining a firm grip on the steering wheel

Yes people do that often - it's annoying. You clearly stated you are having issues with heel/toe and why, yet you're getting suggestions on heel/toe instead of the question at hand.

I wish Ford mounted the radio buttons where Dodge did. I actually wish all steering wheel controls for the Ford were on on the same side as Dodge.

Anyway - good luck with the blip - if/when you get this done I'm sure we'll all appreciate it if you show us what you did/how it works etc.

 

[Schredder]

I just have to chime in on this. I am 51 years old and have owned quite a few manual cars in my days , best was 70 mustang fastback 351 Cleveland 4 speed. If you need an auto blip , just buy an automatic car . I haven't had any issues with this car. To me it's just a regular car. Not sure I would know the difference. Just drive it and be thankfull. Manual cars are going bye bye, because people want the car to do every thing for them. I will admit the hill hold is a nice safety feature since I live in the mountains , but I don't even need it , Just nice to have. Practice will make perfect. Enjoy

 

[Tat2bass]

Oh, just buy an automatic. Guess I didn't think of that. Anyone know where I can get an automatic GT350?

When you say it's just a regular car, that shows me you most likely don't drive this car nearly to what it should be. And for 90% of owners, regular driving would be fine. I've had mine for 10 months and put 22k on it. And it's only my weekend and canyon and track car. I'm getting closer to the limits of it and I see an area where I can cut down on time and unnecessary wear by having a rev match thing.

Break your back, have 2 fusions and about 10 nerve blocks and epidurals and tell me how well you are able to do certain things. I love driving a manual, and I'm trying to hold onto driving it as long as possible. So I don't want to sell it or trade it for something like a ZL1 with the 10 speed just yet.

 

[Bigsky gt350]

No, thank you for the reply and trying to help. But you know what I mean I'm sure about how people here ask for help or an opinion on how to do something, and instead people tell them stuff that doesn't pertain.

But I was planning on mounting the button to the back of the left side of the steering wheel. I see you have a 392 Charger, I have a '16 Scatpack as my daily driver. So you know how the channel change button is on the back left side of the steering wheel? I was thinking of mounting it like that. So I can keep my hands at 9/3 and easily reach a finger back to press it while still maintaining a firm grip on the steering wheel



Yeah, saw that afterwards that it's only the '17's that use the 12v now. Mine is a '16. So guessing the clutch interlock wire is something I'd have to use, cause I don't imagine there will be many other similar voltage sources. I at first assumed it would be 12v like nearly every other system in a car.

Any PCM uses 5vdc, doesn't matter which year or make, just how they are. Pc's use 3 or 5 vdc to operate .

 

[TRS7139]

Thousands of guys over decades have learned to heel/toe and truth be told this is one of the easiest cars to do it in.
Get someone competent and spend an hour with them without the Rube Goldberg solutions.......really, it ain't tough.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Not sure you have seen the autoblip controller then or understand how it works. The power to the module isn't the issue, I'm trying to see if it's viable to activate the clutch controlled blip via a button rather than the clutch

I'm going to guess that with rare exception your right heel stays planted in one place on the carpet/floor mat the entire time that you're driving.

I'd be seriously tempted to put some sort of switch somewhere on the shifter/shift knob such that the rev-blip could be executed regardless of steering wheel position or left hand position on it. You're only going to need the blip when your right hand already is on the shifter, and it should be even easier to get this down pat than doing a rev-match while braking on a motorcycle (where the right hand also gets to do two jobs at the same time). Of course, this would be easier if you're naturally right-handed than if you're a southpaw.


Norm

 

[Trackaholic]

FYI, the GM solution only uses the paddles for activating and deactivating the rev-match feature. The system still uses the clutch for sensing when to actually rev-match. I may have misinterpreted your goal, but it sounded like you wanted the actually cause the blip by hitting a switch rather than the system doing it when the clutch is pressed. From a safety perspective it is important that the system only function when the clutch is pressed so you don't have any accidental acceleration. Remember that the auto-blip is open loop and does not integrate with the rest of the systems and I think could goose the throttle if you used the hand switch to initiate the blip.

Seems like the best solution is to wire in the power switch to an easily accessible location. Maybe that was your plan all along.

-T

 

[Random driver]

Do we know if Auto Blip works on the 17's yet?

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

I just have to chime in on this. I am 51 years old and have owned quite a few manual cars in my days , best was 70 mustang fastback 351 Cleveland 4 speed. If you need an auto blip , just buy an automatic car . I haven't had any issues with this car. To me it's just a regular car. Not sure I would know the difference. Just drive it and be thankfull. Manual cars are going bye bye, because people want the car to do every thing for them. I will admit the hill hold is a nice safety feature since I live in the mountains , but I don't even need it , Just nice to have. Practice will make perfect. Enjoy

By the sounds of it, you seem to fit the Corvette demographic perfectly... ;)

Thousands of guys over decades have learned to heel/toe and truth be told this is one of the easiest cars to do it in.
Get someone competent and spend an hour with them without the Rube Goldberg solutions.......really, it ain't tough.

Its posts like these two that would infuriate me if I were the OP here lol clearly neither of you took the 2 minutes to read the original post or WHY the OP is looking for this system or otherwise you wouldn't have wasted your time providing useless commentary on how easy it is for YOU or how he should buy an automatic LOL

Yeah, spending an hour with a competent heel/toe expert is going to solve a past broken back and nerve damage eh? Genius! Tell me, is spending an hour with a HPDE instructor the cure for cancer then? :headbonk:

 

[MrCincinnati]

I may have misinterpreted your goal, but it sounded like you wanted the actually cause the blip by hitting a switch rather than the system doing it when the clutch is pressed. From a safety perspective it is important that the system only function when the clutch is pressed so you don't have any accidental acceleration. Remember that the auto-blip is open loop and does not integrate with the rest of the systems and I think could goose the throttle if you used the hand switch to initiate the blip.

Seems like the best solution is to wire in the power switch to an easily accessible location. Maybe that was your plan all along.

-T

This was my primary concern with his solution also. It's unsafe due to the potential to accidentally hit the gas... while turning. That said, the position he wants to mount it in is pretty isolated from that likelihood, but still - it's possible and would only take once at the wrong time.

 

[Norm Peterson]

This was my primary concern with his solution also. It's unsafe due to the potential to accidentally hit the gas... while turning. That said, the position he wants to mount it in is pretty isolated from that likelihood, but still - it's possible and would only take once at the wrong time.

Why would you have to take the clutch pedal switch out of the control loop in order to add a separate switch (like, in series)???

Don't be in such a bloody hurry to throw the 'it's unsafe' card. Think about how it might be made to work first.


Norm

 

[MrCincinnati]

Why would you have to take the clutch pedal switch out of the control loop in order to add a separate switch (like, in series)???

Don't be in such a bloody hurry to throw the 'it's unsafe' card. Think about how it might be made to work first.


Norm

Sure - keep the clutch in the loop. It's still unsafe. Don't be in such a bloody hurry to ASSume the thought hasn't taken place.

Electronic throttle controls are heavily dependent on properly functioning electronics... doubling the number of inputs to this throttle control (autoblip standard install) is already doubling the risk of failure. Adding in a hacked up series wired switch dependent now on another electrical connection along with proper switch functioning - then throwing in the increased potential for user error takes the reliability of one of the most crucial inputs in the vehicle to unsafe levels.

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