Audio Signal Quesion.

[Evolvd]

It's possible to do. All chimes are generated by the ACM. If the ACM cannot detect the DSP amp on the Canbus, it delegates the instrument cluster to play them.

This shows 8 signal lines coming from the ACM (lower left side). These are mixed appropriately inside the DSP amplifier to play over all the speakers in the audio system. Not just the dash speaker. The DSP amp also has speaker detection circuitry. In the event some or all the speakers are disconnected it may throw a trouble code onto the can bus. Again, the instrument panel then gets the ding-dong & doo-be-doo duty.

So to get chimes to play on a new audio system, you would need a T harness to parallel those audio signals. You will need a DSP with at least 4 inputs and the ability to mix the chimes channels into the audio channels before amplification. Also consider that the back-up beeper warnings come from the rear speakers. A new stereo system will need to have additional amplifier channels for this function alone.
Then you need to cut the speaker lines for the midrange/tweeters and center channel on the brown plug because this plug also provides power to the OEM amp and we can't have any speakers connected to this amp. The grey plug can be disconnected. Then the final step is to use Forscan to disable the speaker detection function on the amp so it doesn't throw a DTC.

That's a lot to deal with just to have electronic chimes playing through the new audio system when simply removing the OEM amp will do. The chimes are still very audible and clear through the instrument panel.

I’m curious if the 9-speaker setup uses a DSP amp, why doesn’t the PAC Amp Pro work on it? Different plugs?

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[ChiknNutz]

Not sure if you've come across this, but this is what I am using and coincidentally am right in the middle of doing myself. I have already replaced all of the factory speakers except for the tweeters and I can say they all are the cheapest of cheap speakers. Mine literally either had already fallen apart or fell apart during R/R. What crap speakers they put in our cars. I replaced with Infinity Reference speakers. Right now I am adding a sub (zenclosure, amp, LC2iPro, etc.), so just finished running all the wiring for power and signal. I ran the power down the passenger side and signal on driver's side. So here is the link for the harness I used that taps right into the factory amp, super simple and high quality.

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...-pioneer-plug-play-amp?variant=41086095818942

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

It's possible to do. All chimes are generated by the ACM. If the ACM cannot detect the DSP amp on the Canbus, it delegates the instrument cluster to play them.

This shows 8 signal lines coming from the ACM (lower left side). These are mixed appropriately inside the DSP amplifier to play over all the speakers in the audio system. Not just the dash speaker. The DSP amp also has speaker detection circuitry. In the event some or all the speakers are disconnected it may throw a trouble code onto the can bus. Again, the instrument panel then gets the ding-dong & doo-be-doo duty.

So to get chimes to play on a new audio system, you would need a T harness to parallel those audio signals. You will need a DSP with at least 4 inputs and the ability to mix the chimes channels into the audio channels before amplification. Also consider that the back-up beeper warnings come from the rear speakers. A new stereo system will need to have additional amplifier channels for this function alone.
Then you need to cut the speaker lines for the midrange/tweeters and center channel on the brown plug because this plug also provides power to the OEM amp and we can't have any speakers connected to this amp. The grey plug can be disconnected. Then the final step is to use Forscan to disable the speaker detection function on the amp so it doesn't throw a DTC.

That's a lot to deal with just to have electronic chimes playing through the new audio system when simply removing the OEM amp will do. The chimes are still very audible and clear through the instrument panel.

Right. Essentially what I was thinking is to have 2 separate audio systems in the car: the new one for audio playback, consisting of bi-amped front 2 way components and a sub on a 5 ch dsp amp, AND the factory amp with the center, door 3.5s and rear deck 6.5s solely for chimes, since it’s all already there. If the 4 channels of audio input are removed from the factory amp it should just playback silence except the chimes.

 

[StangTime]

Right. Essentially what I was thinking is to have 2 separate audio systems in the car: the new one for audio playback, consisting of bi-amped front 2 way components and a sub on a 5 ch dsp amp, AND the factory amp with the center, door 3.5s and rear deck 6.5s solely for chimes, since it’s all already there. If the 4 channels of audio input are removed from the factory amp it should just playback silence except the chimes.

This would be a valid way to accomplish it. You might be the first to attempt it.

 

[StangTime]

I’m curious if the 9-speaker setup uses a DSP amp, why doesn’t the PAC Amp Pro work on it? Different plugs?

@Cathul is our resident B&O expert. Probably due to the fact B&O amp is digitally controlled whereas the 9 speaker system is analog.

 

[Cathul]

@Cathul is our resident B&O expert. Probably due to the fact B&O amp is digitally controlled whereas the 9 speaker system is analog.

That’s true. Back when the Mustang had the shaker system there wasn’t an AmpPro either as the shaker and the 9-speaker system is totally analog.
Yea, the amps still have CAN bus connections, but afaik they are only used for monitoring purposes.
So integrating into this analog system is easy as is.

 

[Olshbk4]

No issues with the head unit volume on the 9 speaker system. Works as it should with signals running off the black plug. As mentioned, the dings and dongs of the car will now sound through the gauge cluster. This is a non issue, the alerts sound fine this way. Sync voice and phone calls will still work over the stereo speakers.

You can build a harness with the black connector from the AF03 harness with off the shelf parts. More info:

Links to the parts:
DVR Ethernet Screw Terminals
Cat6 STP cable
RCA to AV screw terminal adapters
Optional: Wire ferrules and a crimper. Keeps the wires from fraying on the ends.

What the amp end looks like when assembled:

The input side of this cable connects directly to the AF03 harness through the DVR adapter and eliminates the need for a line output converter.

Absolutely no issue if going without the door midrange. But you need good drivers for this. A 3-way works well but this adds complications and additional amplifier channels.

The DSP in the D4.800 amp should be fine as long as it let's you EQ the line outs that will feed the subwoofer/amp.

I used PVC sheet for my original 6.5" mounts.

If you want to just cut them from PVC as shown above, use this drawing:

For 3D versions ,print with ABS.

You can download the 3D files from my google drive:

Okay so I've reached a point.

Firstly, you are awesome. I pretty much did your entire plan and it worked absolutely perfect and took almost no time at all. Only ran into one issue and it's a pretty major one for me.

I have no audio in phone calls, I get sound for my beeps and boops, but I can't hear anyone on the phone, although they can still hear me which is nice I guess lol. Any ideas?

 

[Evolvd]

Okay so I've reached a point.

Firstly, you are awesome. I pretty much did your entire plan and it worked absolutely perfect and took almost no time at all. Only ran into one issue and it's a pretty major one for me.

I have no audio in phone calls, I get sound for my beeps and boops, but I can't hear anyone on the phone, although they can still hear me which is nice I guess lol. Any ideas?

The area mic still works for Bluetooth calls but the audio for it went through the stock amp. If you’ve removed that output you won’t hear it on your new speakers.

Perhaps someone has a workaround for it?

 

[Cathul]

First thing I would do is testing if I accidentally turned the phone volume all the way down.
Phone calls are going through the same signal wires as music or radio, but they have an independent volume control.

 

[Bassackwards]

First thing I would do is testing if I accidentally turned the phone volume all the way down.
Phone calls are going through the same signal wires as music or radio, but they have an independent volume control.

I would second this as a first check. Sometimes the volume control is delayed and can be inadvertently turned down without even knowing that it happened.

 

[StangTime]

Okay so I've reached a point.

Firstly, you are awesome. I pretty much did your entire plan and it worked absolutely perfect and took almost no time at all. Only ran into one issue and it's a pretty major one for me.

I have no audio in phone calls, I get sound for my beeps and boops, but I can't hear anyone on the phone, although they can still hear me which is nice I guess lol. Any ideas?

I've heard of this happening even on completely stock systems.

Check the volume control as mentioned already. While in a call, try increasing the volume level on the head unit and or phone.

Other things to try:

1. Change the ringer settings in Sync to use the phone ringer, turning off the car ringer.

2. Try disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes.

3. Delete your phone from Sync and re-pair it.

Phone call audio is transmitted by bluetooth to the head unit and decoded there. Call audio comes through the same signal lines used for the stereo system. If the phone isn't playing calls, then this is a Sync or bluetooth issue.

 

[Olshbk4]

I've heard of this happening even on completely stock systems.

Check the volume control as mentioned already. While in a call, try increasing the volume level on the head unit and or phone.

Other things to try:

1. Change the ringer settings in Sync to use the phone ringer, turning off the car ringer.

2. Try disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes.

3. Delete your phone from Sync and re-pair it.

Phone call audio is transmitted by bluetooth to the head unit and decoded there. Call audio comes through the same signal lines used for the stereo system. If the phone isn't playing calls, then this is a Sync or bluetooth issue.

So it was actually even more dumb than volume.

So I have to wait till tomorrow at work to do my tweeters, the modification I'm doing will be easier with a full shop(I work on maintenance so have every tool and material to use), so since I'm running only fronts, I have the lower speakers set on the rear channel, and tweeters on the fronts. Well I disconnected the tweeters because I didn't want to blow them in the meantime.

Turns out with the fader on full "rear"(which is the lower front doors) you get no audio.

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