Anyone used quick jack with this car?

[FORDSTANGER]

I'm interested as well. The cost seems fair.

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[EF300]

I looked at these and felt they were a pretty good bang for the buck. In the end, I chose something a little more robust, a Bendpak clear center low rise 6,000lb lift. Total weight of the two sides is about 850lbs and they have a legit certification. Got mine from NT...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_375659_375659?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Automotive%20Lifts&utm_campaign=BendPak&utm_content=144662&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4rbABRD_gfPA2-uQqroBEiQA58MNdBGcT6i0tPcKtHOt7UzJa_1W7MbbhFjLOyvAb5jJwRoaAoZY8P8HAQ

My sometimes "Home Depot Orange" Race Red GT350. Or at least how my Droid sees it...










Bolted to the floor with 10 large anchors, each side is extra wide. Pump and reservoir mount to an upright bracket that you anchor to the floor, out of the way. You can use either 110v or 220v. I use 110v and am impressed with how quickly the unit raises. You also need compressed air to release the safety locks when lowering. A huge time saver.

Hey so what thickness is your concrete slab ? That lift supposedly requires a 4 inch slab. Seems most homes are 2 inch slab .

 

[Epiphany]

I worked in commercial construction for almost 30 years and if I learned anything it was that I have a weakness for anything overbuilt. So when I built my 30' x 50' pole barn I poured a 6" slab, reinforced with heavy mesh and used fibermesh in the mix as well (~5,000 psi mix). I thickened the slab with pockets where I knew I'd be adding a lift and used 1/2" rebar in each.

If your slab is inadequate you could always cut pockets in, hand excavate, and pour in a footing/slab. Nice thing about that is you could then install the flush mount lift. A slick, clean way to do this type of install.

Here's a few examples of what I mean in this thread (scroll down halfway or so).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...pit-style-lift-vs-midrise-scissor-lift-2.html

 

[EF300]

I worked in commercial construction for almost 30 years and if I learned anything it was that I have a weakness for anything overbuilt. So when I built my 30' x 50' pole barn I poured a 6" slab, reinforced with heavy mesh and used fibermesh in the mix as well (~5,000 psi mix). I thickened the slab with pockets where I knew I'd be adding a lift and used 1/2" rebar in each.

If your slab is inadequate you could always cut pockets in, hand excavate, and pour in a footing/slab. Nice thing about that is you could then install the flush mount lift. A slick, clean way to do this type of install.

Here's a few examples of what I mean in this thread (scroll down halfway or so).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...pit-style-lift-vs-midrise-scissor-lift-2.html

'

That is a great idea. I would need a contractor b/c I dont have the skills to do that. Can u use this lift unbolted to the floor ?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Hey so what thickness is your concrete slab ? That lift supposedly requires a 4 inch slab. Seems most homes are 2 inch slab .

I'm with Epiphany on the matter of "overbuilding" when it comes to bolting lifts to the floor. Call it cheap "extra" insurance against really bad things happening.

There should also be a minimum concrete strength. Which as somebody who's actually run strength analyses for plates anchor-bolted to concrete and subject to heavy loads I'd also "over-specify". When concrete fails, it can happen suddenly with little warning.


Norm

 

[MCarsFan]

This thing with drilling concrete just isnt something I am happy to do for various reasons:

- My house is built in 1950s, i dont think its a good idea to mess with the concrete
- Cutting the concrete and pouring is a big job, I got 3 quotes from different people ranging from $1200-$1800
- Even with cutting concrete, my house is on a slope, god knows what you will find once you cut the concrete. We have a lot of sink holes in the area and its a hilltop/rocky place
- Not as versatile. Just being able to use these quick jack things anywhere is amazing. Roll them out to the driveway, or use either of the garages

 

[Epiphany]

Can u use this lift unbolted to the floor ?

It has a much wider footprint (read: safer) than the other system being discussed in this thread and that one is portable. Regardless, I'd follow the manufacturers guidelines and they recommend it being secured to the floor.

This thing with drilling concrete just isnt something I am happy to do for various reasons:

- My house is built in 1950s, i dont think its a good idea to mess with the concrete
- Cutting the concrete and pouring is a big job, I got 3 quotes from different people ranging from $1200-$1800
- Even with cutting concrete, my house is on a slope, god knows what you will find once you cut the concrete. We have a lot of sink holes in the area and its a hilltop/rocky place
- Not as versatile. Just being able to use these quick jack things anywhere is amazing. Roll them out to the driveway, or use either of the garages

Concrete gains compressive strength over time, especially when continually hydrated - it doesn't become weaker.

Relatively speaking, this is a rather small job. I suppose if you've never done any demolition or worked with concrete before that you could see it as overwhelming but in reality it is simply a matter of researching and then getting your hands dirty. I'd love to see a copy of the quotes you received for cutting and pouring in either one or two pockets.

Decide on a lift system, and rent a demolition saw with a concrete cutting blade. Cutting time is minimal. Keep the blade wet while you cut and minimize dust. Once cut, you can either break up the slab with a sledge or you can rent an electric gun (not as good as pneumatic equipment such as an air compressor, etc, but often quicker and easier than doing it by hand). Dispose of the debris. Lay a bed of compactable stone (or just use #1 stone) and tamp to compaction. Tie a mat of rebar (you can get lengths of 1/2" rebar and wire from places such as Home Depot), form the inside of the area with lumber (so you need a circular saw and screw gun, etc), and pour. You can either mix by hand (due to the small size) or order concrete to be delivered by truck (you'll pay a surchardge due how small the yardage will be), pour and finish. Strip the forms, let everything cure (you'll reach near full strength by 30 days) and you can install your recessed scissor lift.

Here's a great thread on the matter.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433&showall=1

Yes, the style I'm talking about isn't as portable. In my case, safety trumped portability, heavily. Everyone has different wants/needs so all I can recommend is researching the heck out of everything, narrowing it down to a couple of choices, picking one and moving forward. I took the easy way out and just bought a surface mounted scissor lift. Extremely beefy but not the cheapest. I had no problem paying more for something safer.

 

[MCarsFan]

It has a much wider footprint (read: safer) than the other system being discussed in this thread and that one is portable. Regardless, I'd follow the manufacturers guidelines and they recommend it being secured to the floor.




Concrete gains compressive strength over time, especially when continually hydrated - it doesn't become weaker.

Relatively speaking, this is a rather small job. I suppose if you've never done any demolition or worked with concrete before that you could see it as overwhelming but in reality it is simply a matter of researching and then getting your hands dirty. I'd love to see a copy of the quotes you received for cutting and pouring in either one or two pockets.

Decide on a lift system, and rent a demolition saw with a concrete cutting blade. Cutting time is minimal. Keep the blade wet while you cut and minimize dust. Once cut, you can either break up the slab with a sledge or you can rent an electric gun (not as good as pneumatic equipment such as an air compressor, etc, but often quicker and easier than doing it by hand). Dispose of the debris. Lay a bed of compactable stone (or just use #1 stone) and tamp to compaction. Tie a mat of rebar (you can get lengths of 1/2" rebar and wire from places such as Home Depot), form the inside of the area with lumber (so you need a circular saw and screw gun, etc), and pour. You can either mix by hand (due to the small size) or order concrete to be delivered by truck (you'll pay a surchardge due how small the yardage will be), pour and finish. Strip the forms, let everything cure (you'll reach near full strength by 30 days) and you can install your recessed scissor lift.

Here's a great thread on the matter.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433&showall=1

Yes, the style I'm talking about isn't as portable. In my case, safety trumped portability, heavily. Everyone has different wants/needs so all I can recommend is researching the heck out of everything, narrowing it down to a couple of choices, picking one and moving forward. I took the easy way out and just bought a surface mounted scissor lift. Extremely beefy but not the cheapest. I had no problem paying more for something safer.

Thank you for the write up, a lot of good info there.

Did you see this video? When people say "safer" for other lifts, what is it that the quickjack doesnt provide but the bendpak lift will? I'm not knowledgeable in this area so its an honest question.

[ame]

 

[Steve68]

Just wondering what is the total raised height from frame rails to floor , I have been contemplating between this and another company called ez lift .i know it will get the 350 high enough for basic stuff but I have a couple of fox bodies where I still might pull trans for clutch replacement .

https://www.quickjack.com/quickjack-measuring-guide.html

 

[Epiphany]

Did you see this video? When people say "safer" for other lifts, what is it that the quickjack doesnt provide but the bendpak lift will? I'm not knowledgeable in this area so its an honest question.

The video was cute.

First question you should ask yourself is about is if the lift has been certified by an independent third party. I only spent a few minutes but couldn't find any type of certification on the Quickjack.

http://www.autolift.org/ali-directo...roductbrand=All&rateload=&searchsubmit=Search

I made sure that the one I purchased was.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/p-6b.aspx

Take a close look at the construction. What materials are used? What are the strengths and weaknesses of the design from a structural perspective (not an economic one)? In terms of failure, many lifts can be overloaded and if they are certified you'll see that they are usually rated far below the point at which they begin to yield - a generic statement but you get the idea. In the video linked above, weight was added once the lift was all the way up. I have little doubt that it would have gotten very ugly, very quickly, were they to have lowered the lift with the weight on it. The design is strongest when either lowered all the way or lifted to its peak.

Look at the bushings or bearings (or lack thereof) and if any grease fittings are used. Are structural components in single or double shear?

What rating and type of construction do the hydraulic cylinders have? Do they have a failsafe design?

Again, I see the utility in the Quickjack design. It's lightweight and mobile. Features most anyone would embrace. But for me it had to pass muster from a failure mode perspective and I prefer something a bit more robust.

On edit.... I did find this, from England. Need to investigate further.
https://www.quickjack.com/media/wysiwyg/Downloads/QuickJack-CE-Certificate.pdf

And then this, a bit of a rebuke...
http://www.autolift.org/Faq/question-number-three/

An important consideration relating to CE approval of lifts installed in North America is that American and Canadian electrical officials do not accept CE Marking as evidence of compliance with required safety standards. Claims that “Lifts are CE approved” bear no relevance to North American lift purchasers. The CE lift standard, EN 1493 is not tougher than ANSI/ALI ALCTV, as some might claim when unable to offer lift models that are ALI certified.

 

[MCarsFan]

The video was cute.

First question you should ask yourself is about is if the lift has been certified by an independent third party. I only spent a few minutes but couldn't find any type of certification on the Quickjack.

http://www.autolift.org/ali-directo...roductbrand=All&rateload=&searchsubmit=Search

I made sure that the one I purchased was.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/p-6b.aspx

Take a close look at the construction. What materials are used? What are the strengths and weaknesses of the design from a structural perspective (not an economic one)? In terms of failure, many lifts can be overloaded and if they are certified you'll see that they are usually rated far below the point at which they begin to yield - a generic statement but you get the idea. In the video linked above, weight was added once the lift was all the way up. I have little doubt that it would have gotten very ugly, very quickly, were they to have lowered the lift with the weight on it. The design is strongest when either lowered all the way or lifted to its peak.

Look at the bushings or bearings (or lack thereof) and if any grease fittings are used. Are structural components in single or double shear?

What rating and type of construction do the hydraulic cylinders have? Do they have a failsafe design?

Again, I see the utility in the Quickjack design. It's lightweight and mobile. Features most anyone would embrace. But for me it had to pass muster from a failure mode perspective and I prefer something a bit more robust.

On edit.... I did find this, from England. Need to investigate further.
https://www.quickjack.com/media/wysiwyg/Downloads/QuickJack-CE-Certificate.pdf

And then this, a bit of a rebuke...
http://www.autolift.org/Faq/question-number-three/

I am not familiar with the certification process but I do know they have some certificate which was done in England (https://www.quickjack.com/safety.html)

But anyways, my point was, quickjack is overbuilt as it is, its carrying 16,000 lbs when it was rated 5000 lbs which means the 7000 lbs unit is at least good for 20,000 lbs. Mustang is 3700 lbs, fraction of that limit. I completely agree that your 800 lbs lift is substantially better built than the 180 lbs quickjack, but what practical added advantage does it provide for a weekend mechanic who does oil changes every 3 months, brakes every 2 years, and so on.

The other thing I wanted to ask (I actually considered your lift along with other bendpak lifts), what exactly do you do with it when you are not using the lift? Can you park the mustang on it, is there enough clearance? Also does the splitter clear the ramp section on it?

I have two small garages in today's standards. My ceiling height after garage door opener is only 84 inches. That means at the maximum I can lift the mustang is 30 inches. Which is actually 20" as there is an additional 10" required when the hood is open. You see? So any lift thats more than a quickjack is a headache for me.

I actually contemplated a higher lift but anything above 20" but less than 30-32" is actually useless. The height between 20-35 is not a height you can use a creeper. 30" for example is too high for laying down but too low for sitting.

If I had a ceiling height that was 10-15" higher, I would do this no question, but given that I can only do 20", whats the point?

 

[EF300]

I need this !

 

[autobahnGT350]

I am not familiar with the certification process but I do know they have some certificate which was done in England (https://www.quickjack.com/safety.html)

But anyways, my point was, quickjack is overbuilt as it is, its carrying 16,000 lbs when it was rated 5000 lbs which means the 7000 lbs unit is at least good for 20,000 lbs. Mustang is 3700 lbs, fraction of that limit. I completely agree that your 800 lbs lift is substantially better built than the 180 lbs quickjack, but what practical added advantage does it provide for a weekend mechanic who does oil changes every 3 months, brakes every 2 years, and so on.

The other thing I wanted to ask (I actually considered your lift along with other bendpak lifts), what exactly do you do with it when you are not using the lift? Can you park the mustang on it, is there enough clearance? Also does the splitter clear the ramp section on it?

I have two small garages in today's standards. My ceiling height after garage door opener is only 84 inches. That means at the maximum I can lift the mustang is 30 inches. Which is actually 20" as there is an additional 10" required when the hood is open. You see? So any lift thats more than a quickjack is a headache for me.

I actually contemplated a higher lift but anything above 20" but less than 30-32" is actually useless. The height between 20-35 is not a height you can use a creeper. 30" for example is too high for laying down but too low for sitting.

If I had a ceiling height that was 10-15" higher, I would do this no question, but given that I can only do 20", whats the point?

Hey Mcarsfan,

Reviving old thread. Did you ever get the QuickJack? If so, how do you like it. The reasons you stated as why it was practical equate to my thoughts as well.

Thanks. :cheers:

 

[Norm Peterson]

Reviving old thread.

Thanks for reviving it.

MCarsFan should not be making claims for the 7000 lb unit based on extrapolating from the 5000 lb unit. Quickjack's own testing and ratings are the only things that you should trust here.

But anyways, my point was, quickjack is overbuilt as it is, its carrying 16,000 lbs when it was rated 5000 lbs which means the 7000 lbs unit is at least good for 20,000 lbs.

Norm

 

[UnhandledException]

Mcarsfan and I are the same users.

I did get the quickjack and quickly returned it. It was just a disaster. I bought a 4 post lift instead and while that also had a lot of issues to get it properly working, overall i m much happier.

Quickjack was so bad that forget getting under the car, I just wouldnt change the tires on it.

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